Did you paint the tank or is the camera doing tricks on me?
CK5
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Lost and Found - LS3 6L80 NP205 Full Frame Off
- Thread starter mattrains
- Start date
mattrains
MRAINS
Camera tricks. Its bare.
mattrains
MRAINS
Got the sending unit for a 91 k5, Walbro 255 high pressure pump w/ install kit.
I still need to have AN fittings welded to the sending unit and also run a filter and regulator w/ return after the tank.
This fuel stuff has me guessing. Luckily I have the guys at YearOne helping puck parts.
Ive also got some awesome news about my headers but that'll have to wait.
I still need to have AN fittings welded to the sending unit and also run a filter and regulator w/ return after the tank.
This fuel stuff has me guessing. Luckily I have the guys at YearOne helping puck parts.
Ive also got some awesome news about my headers but that'll have to wait.
Summit has fitting that go on the sending unit for an fittings. Part#s might be in my build, if not I will have to look them up, or you can call them and ask which one they are. They are good about that stuff when you call and tell them what you are needing. Don't weld on the sending unit it will fry it.
You powdercoated the frame but you didn't paint the tank? Or did I miss a post? 
mattrains
MRAINS
Thanks Teck. I'll look through your build for the part.
Dueling. I don't think they came from the factory with painted gas tanks?? The skid plate covers it anyway.
Dueling. I don't think they came from the factory with painted gas tanks?? The skid plate covers it anyway.
mattrains
MRAINS
Teck
Are these the fitting you are talking about? If so, what PSI pump are you running. I was told that I needed to Tig weld AN fittings because the stock o-ring style connectors that are on my sending unit will not hold up to the pressure of the Walbro pump.
Also, what did you do about your vent line? Charcoal canister or vented gas cap? Did you just plug the vent line if you went with the gas cap? Thanks!
Here are the fittings for your fuel lines
These are the ones that you should need for the sending unit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9894dbjerl
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9894dbherl
These are the ones for the filter and motor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640853 (2 of these one goes on the filter and one goes on the motor)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640863 (Return line on the filter)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640940 (This one goes in the filter)
Then pick your fuel line and 6AN hose ends.
Are these the fitting you are talking about? If so, what PSI pump are you running. I was told that I needed to Tig weld AN fittings because the stock o-ring style connectors that are on my sending unit will not hold up to the pressure of the Walbro pump.
Also, what did you do about your vent line? Charcoal canister or vented gas cap? Did you just plug the vent line if you went with the gas cap? Thanks!
Here are the fittings for your fuel lines
These are the ones that you should need for the sending unit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9894dbjerl
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-9894dbherl
These are the ones for the filter and motor.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640853 (2 of these one goes on the filter and one goes on the motor)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640863 (Return line on the filter)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640940 (This one goes in the filter)
Then pick your fuel line and 6AN hose ends.
Unpainted tank = rust.
mattrains
MRAINS
In Georgia a galvanized tank should last quite a while. We don't have snow or salt to rust the tank. My last tank lasted 27+ years.
I could be wrong though. I don't mind painting it but would rather have it look stock. It's a pretty shiney tank but hopefully that will dull down like the originals were.
My fuel lines aren't going to rust and they're galvanized steel??
I could be wrong though. I don't mind painting it but would rather have it look stock. It's a pretty shiney tank but hopefully that will dull down like the originals were.
My fuel lines aren't going to rust and they're galvanized steel??
What brand tank is it?
Earlier this year when I switched over to a K5 tank I read reviews that the spectra tanks last a long time and don't rust.
Earlier this year when I switched over to a K5 tank I read reviews that the spectra tanks last a long time and don't rust.
mattrains
MRAINS
Spectra, if it rusts i'll just get a new one and paint it 
mattrains
MRAINS
The np205 is ready to go on tomorrow. I think this will be the first 6L80 6 speed auto mated to an np205??
Pretty stoked to bolt it on.
Pretty stoked to bolt it on.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I wonder. Either way, it's pretty awesome.
Will be nice to see how it works
mattrains
MRAINS
Big win. I bought the adapter in January haha
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sexy time!
mattrains
MRAINS
Here are some more pics under its own weight on the crossmember. You see why I had to modify the support. I will have it welded up to look factory when its all done.
Looks good in there.
Any issues with the output shaft length. I know on my 4L65E I had to change the shaft out or was going to have to cut some off to make it work. (already had the advance adapter shaft from my 700R4).
Another thing to watch is sealing up the coupler so tranny fluid doesn't leak into the transfer case, I still need to pull mine back out to try and fix this issues.
Any issues with the output shaft length. I know on my 4L65E I had to change the shaft out or was going to have to cut some off to make it work. (already had the advance adapter shaft from my 700R4).
Another thing to watch is sealing up the coupler so tranny fluid doesn't leak into the transfer case, I still need to pull mine back out to try and fix this issues.
What are you using for a shifter on the 205?
I did have to cut the floor to get enough throw room in the shifter to get all the gears.
if i remember right I notched it out in the front to get 4lo, so moving your back several inches you may have to cut some front and back. I do know that the boot barely cover the hole I had to cut.
Just something you will need to deal with when you have the body back on.
Building this without the body on can present some fitment issues down the road.
Hate for you to run into problem with a nice freshly painted body.
I did have to cut the floor to get enough throw room in the shifter to get all the gears.
if i remember right I notched it out in the front to get 4lo, so moving your back several inches you may have to cut some front and back. I do know that the boot barely cover the hole I had to cut.
Just something you will need to deal with when you have the body back on.
Building this without the body on can present some fitment issues down the road.
Hate for you to run into problem with a nice freshly painted body.
mattrains
MRAINS
I kept the factory output shaft and adapter but had to use a 1" advance adapters spacer with the long 32 spline input to make it all work but I have 2" of engagement.
This may sound dumb but I don't know how trans fluid could get to the tcase? The trans is sealed at the output and the tcase is sealed at the input. The vent tubes are connected but that's all. Again I'm not sure but I need to learn before I put it all together.
As for the shifters I opted for independent cable shifters so I can mount them anywhere I need.
This may sound dumb but I don't know how trans fluid could get to the tcase? The trans is sealed at the output and the tcase is sealed at the input. The vent tubes are connected but that's all. Again I'm not sure but I need to learn before I put it all together.
As for the shifters I opted for independent cable shifters so I can mount them anywhere I need.
