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Lost and Found - LS3 6L80 NP205 Full Frame Off

I do have an older style adapter in mine. There is two seal in it that seal the coupler then the shafts have o ring on them. The problem seem to be that the o rings don't seem to seal inside the coupler completely, so this is whereat seem the that the guild leaks thru. I put some rtv silicone on mine, maybe not enough, but it still leaks. I did talk advance adapters and I may just put a new coupler in it also when I pull the transfer case out to try and fix the issue.
 
The trans is sealed and the np205 should be sealed so hopefully fluids won't mix through the adapter. Fingers crossed.


What did you do with your steam port?
 
Okay. I forgot to tap my water pump and I don't want to take it off again. I'll probably just run a line like you did. Looks clean.
 
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http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling_LSI-tee.html

I have also hear of people tapping the water pump and using around 7 inches of hose to the TB.
 
Thanks for advice guys. I can't find anywhere my water pump is tapped for a temp sensor? Have any pics? I'll probably just add a bung to the radiator. I need something that is clean and looks factory.

On another note. Here is what I ended up doing on the fuel sending unit to convert to the high pressure Walbro 255

I used a 37° flare to attach a tube nut on the sending and return lines then used male to male AN fittings. The sending is AN6 and the return is AN5 converted to AN6 so I can just use 3/8 line on the entire system.

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The factory has the temp sender in the drivers side head towards the front of the engine.

Teck, drilled and tapped his water pump for a gauge in his factory cluster.

Are you using a k5 fuel injected sending unit?
 
The water pump is not tapped, you have to drill it and tap it yourself. You can see where I tapped mine on a few post before (#623)the one showing the radiator fitting.
 
Babaganoosh said:
The factory has the temp sender in the drivers side head towards the front of the engine.

Teck, drilled and tapped his water pump for a gauge in his factory cluster.

Are you using a k5 fuel injected sending unit?
Click to expand...

That is correct.
 
Picked up my axles today. I'll get better pics later.

Rear 12 bolt. Welded housing tubes, 4.56 gears, Detroit try trac, disc brake conversion, Moser lid.

Same setup year one runs under their 2000 HP trans am.

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Front 10 bolt. 4.56 gears, Reid nuckle, setup for xover That's all haha. I'll put a 60 under it one day maybe.

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I still have a 10 bolt in the front of mine. It works just fine for mine so far. I have also thought about doing a 60 too, but it would be more for the cool factor.
 
Had to do some bragging on my metal guy. I've had a hell of a time finding body panels to replace some rust in my floors. Especially the rocker (inner & outer). My metal guy Wes built rockers from scratch to match the factory exactly because the aftermarket was such CRAP.

Here is a before shot of the channel that the weather strip sits in at the floor.
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Here is one end of the same channel. He had to do this because the aftermarket panels had a channel that was MUCH deeper and MUCH wider.
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Here is the entire channel, he will cut it out and weld it into the rest of the rocker he built.
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Here is his cardboard template but look at the aftermarket channel above the cardboard and how deep that thing is. Can you imagine trying to get weatherstripping setup in that!?
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I told Wes I wanted to make sure if someone crawled under the truck or combed through it they wouldn't be able to tell the panels were replaced. Being a perfectionist he didn't have a problem with the request. AND since i'm covering up all his hard work with Linex, insulation and carpet no one will ever see it but i'll know it was done right.


Here's just some random powder coating.
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Just a tip for those tool challenged like myself. If you're doing your front spindles and need to change the inner spindle bearing you can use a pilot bearing removal tool. See pics.

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I had a chance to install my Walbro 255 into my tank. Everything went together okay except I had to pull the pump up outside the rubber gasket so it wasn't secure in the bottom brace. It shouldn't be a big deal because its pressed against the bottom of the tank but when it was put together like it should be it was about a 1/4 inch to tall in the tank.

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This did not work because it was sticking to far out of the bottom. I had to pull it back up so the filter would press against the bottom.
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Things are coming together nicely.
I'm looking forward to the future progress.
 
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