lots of help needed

[Jhead]

I have 1986 k5 blazer cucv m1009 style. i just put 33/12.5/15 on it and im getting fender rub but when i look at my front leaf springs i see that they dont bow up they actually bow down my rears bow up an my truck is level ??? should they bow down and if i wanted to lift my truck up two inches just to clear the tires are blocks bad for temp untill full suspension lift is completed.will there be any problem with driveshaft binding or u-joint concerns and shocks will they have to be changed when blocks are used or can they wait untill full kit is done.thank all

 

[Cucv_M1008]

De arched springs are standard for all stock 4wd Chevy/GMC trucks. You can always trim your fenders or put zero rate springs up front to clear the 33's until you get a lift. Diy4x and Ord both sell the zero rate springs


Since you have a M1009, did you buy it from the GL or a pvt party? I would read this to get acquainted with your new M1009 http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?20600-FAQ-Thread-for-CUCV-s , http://www.steelsoldiers.com/content.php?2-CUCV-Wiki and also look up the doghead Relay mod if your truck is 24v it will save your starter from killing its self.

 

[diesel4me]

The front stock springs have "negative arch",which means they are suppsed to look that way,though it does give the impression they are sagged and junk,when you look at the rear leafs or other trucks with springs that have postive arch springs up front...the correct way to lift a GM truck up front is to buy lift kit springs with positive arch...blocks are NOT RECCOMENDED on the front leafs on ANY 4x4 solid axle truck,too much chance of one coming loose in a turn or failing,with disasterous results...................................................................................................You'll need longer shocks with lift springs..the front shaft "might" need to be lengthened,but most of them have enough slip yoke travel to get away with using them as-is,I think there may be a spacer available for the transfer case end of it where it bolts up,to give it an additional inch of length from some aftermarket off road places...

 

[Jhead]

thanks guys i have been at steelsoldiers for about a year now getting to know the electrical side of my truck with the 24v but once started asking questions about lifts they referred me here. k5 are 1/2 ton i beleive and the k5 cucv are rated 3/4 ton is that correct? because i have found some lift kits that say the year and that it is a custom but does not show my engine but i have on others do show my engine for like three times the amount is that due to the 3/4 rating

 

[Cucv_M1008]

you have a k5 with a th400 and 10 bolts and stock springs its calssified as a 3/4 ton but its pretty much a 1/2 ton with the axles. I am on SS also. a half ton kit will be fine.

 

[Jhead]

I bought mine from a local fast hand dealer who bought ten or twelve of them from aution and sold them all for 5000.00 each he ended up with two that just were not selling i waited 1.5 yrs looking at it as i drove by, stopped in he started it up it had 36785 miles on i pulled 2000.00 cash and drove it home

 

[Jhead]

thanks alot i really appreciate all your help cucvfreek

 

[Cucv_M1008]

no problem.

 

[RIPPEDK5]

While I would never put blocks under front springs... why is it so different then a tractor trailer?

straight trucks/ dump trucks and tractor trailer trucks can come with blocks under the front spring...no there not welded or bolted to the spring. Just used like a regular block...see it all the time...Very common practice...these are under far more extreme stresses then any 4x4..

 

[Jhead]

No clue I do not do the rock crawling the most I get into are sand two tracks getting to the trout streams.I could see major off roading not being able to handle the extreme pressure but street driving could be the difference. I don't want to chance a major problem or injury

 

[byggyns]

While I would never put blocks under front springs... why is it so different then a tractor trailer?

straight trucks/ dump trucks and tractor trailer trucks can come with blocks under the front spring...no there not welded or bolted to the spring. Just used like a regular block...see it all the time...Very common practice...these are under far more extreme stresses then any 4x4..

It has to do with where the blocks are. The heavy duty trucks you are referencing have drop axles, so the blocks wind up making the springs sit very near the hub centerline. On the solid axle 4x4, the block moves the spring from the top of a thick axle tube to even farther away (2-4") from it. This creates a much greater torque moment. Since the front axle is under so much more stress in cornering, etc, the block will break and / or shift if not bolted into the spring pack like the EZ inch / zero rates are.

The PO of my truck put blocks up front to clear 33 x 12.5 tires. The drivers side block had broken and shifted creating dangerous handling and braking behaviors. It nearly got me killed, so I put a proper lift under the front.

Edit:

So, my point is, yes it can be done to clear those tires, but I would HIGHLY recommend that you don't do it. Judging by the wear on the tires and the age of the ubolts, the truck had gone less than 3K miles with those blocks, and the broken one was visibly deformed from moving around between the spring and the axle.

 

[Jhead]

update

well x-mas three kids and a wife no lift kit so tok a hammer to the small area that was rubbing and now it clears and you cant see any spot i hit at all win win. now time to save for lift kit

 

[2INSANE]

You should be able to run 33" tires with a little (Barly Noticeable) fender cutting on the edges. It depends on the offset of your rims and how wide your tires are. There's a thread somewhere here with lots of pictures of peoples lift and tire size with mods and without mods...

Any help on link guys?

well x-mas three kids and a wife no lift kit so tok a hammer to the small area that was rubbing and now it clears and you cant see any spot i hit at all win win. now time to save for lift kit

When doing your lift kit. Ask yourself...

What tire size do you want to run with. Don't get the bug like most of us do. Thinking BIGGER is always better. That is not always the case! Just depends on your needs of usefulness and what you want to get out of your toy

33" tires can go along way! My truck Excaliber (RIP) rolled 33" tires for years and was a daily driver. Capable of a lot of trails.

 

[Richcz28]

I run 33s on my truck with a 1 inch body lift from ord and new poly mounts. No rubbing. It is a lot cheaper than a full suspension lift although possibly more difficult, and my truck really needed new body bushings.