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Lovely Fuel Pump replacement.....which one?

jeff in co

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So I had a few stumbles on starting the truck and thought, might be a good time to replace the fuel pump. 360k on truck and who knows when it was changed.

So order up a brand new Delphi assembly with pump and sending unit off of Amazon, $99. Also got a new Spectra tank and straps just for good measure.

Tore it apart over weekend and installed everything. Works great, like a charm! Now, after about 200 miles of driving, I go out this morning and the engine just cranks and cranks. My only conclusion is the pump.

Assuming that is the reason, I look at just a pump replacement and see never ending comments about OEM Delphi, OEM Delco.....Delphi was original maker....dealer says Delco was original. Others say go Bosch.

I don't want to keep doing this so I'll probably return the Amazon one or just replace the pump from a local parts store and keep the Amazon hanger assembly. Question, what is the most reliable one to install? All 3 are around $50-$60.

Delphi Pump (FE0115) - The one I have now
AC Delco (EP386)
Bosch (69238)
 
I think AC Delco is the preferred. That's what I used and no problems. Have you checked the ground strap and connection at the tank on the frame?
 
Just got home, cranked and cranked...Then fired up. 3 more times, starts each time. Brother!

I'll check ground strap at tank and up by firewall....

IMG_20170309_170401200_HDR.jpg

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If you want to test it next time it acts stupid, run a wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the single red wire/connector hanging off the fuel pump relay. You'll at least know if the pump/pump wiring works.
 
Thanks Dyeager, I'll remember that tip. Started again this morning but after this weekend, I'll try cleaning up the ground real well and see where it goes (volleyball all weekend long tournament).
 
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I see a lot of "good" in tank GM fuel pumps getting replaced for nothing--many garages here are too quick to blame the pump,when in fact its the wiring feeding it the 12V that is faulty somewhere between the fuse box and pump...
The wiring connector plug is often faulty where it plugs in at the tank--many new pumps now come with a new connector because they corrode and lose contact inside..

My friend at his shop has learned not to use a LED test light to check for power at the fuel pump tank harness--reason being an LED will light up brightly even with less than 12V--you need amperage to run the pump properly too---he now puts a sealed beam headlamp to the fuel pump power wire to ground for a "test light" and leaves the key "on" for a few minutes--often after a few moments,the light will start dimming or flicker,then go out...the headlight draws more amps and will make a bad wire show up easier..

This indicates a bad spot in the harness somewhere that is chafed or corroded,and it heats up and chokes off the flow of current--and this may not happen for hours,days,weeks,also after a new pump is installed,it may appear "fixed",but then the vehicle craps out again..sometimes it IS a defective new pump,but I bet many that are declared "defective" are just not getting the required amount of amps and volts they need to work right..
 
The bulb will take a draw and put a load on the circuit. What about using a multimeter and see if the voltage drops?? Or Amps drop, more specifically.
 
The bulb will take a draw and put a load on the circuit. What about using a multimeter and see if the voltage drops?? Or Amps drop, more specifically.

I wouldn't spend a bunch of time on it. I'd check that the pump runs, if it does, then I'd get a fuel pressure tester and ensure the pump is putting out the proper PSI.

If the pump is running, there is enough power. If the pressure is low, then you need to dig deeper. Anything is possible, but "not enough" power seems a pretty unlikely cause for this particular issue. Being intermittent somewhat speaks to that.

Could be a flakey relay, if you have a spare it's an easy swap.
 
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Well ,about 6 years ago I put a Bosch in mine,everyone here said it was a mistake ,but it still going good!
 
Went out a few days ago and tried again. Truck started up. Drove to work and back, no problem. So decided to look at the ground. It was bolted very solid but went ahead and filed the frame metal, cleaned it up real good and reinstalled wire. Painted the finished product to protect any of the remaining bare metal.

We'll see how it goes from here.....fingers crossed!
 
Been driving for several days, just quit working again. Truck won't start. I hear the fuel pump running when the key is on, but no start/fire..... :(
 
Well then that's narrowed down. It's an electrical ignition component beginning it's death dance.
 
Or maybe not enough pressure to start??!? Then tank would need to be dropped again.

At least I didn't install skid plate yet.:surepal:
 
Or maybe not enough pressure to start??!? Then tank would need to be dropped again.

At least I didn't install skid plate yet.:surepal:

I wouldn't spend a bunch of time on it. I'd check that the pump runs, if it does, then I'd get a fuel pressure tester and ensure the pump is putting out the proper PSI.

This
 
Been driving for several days, just quit working again. Truck won't start. I hear the fuel pump running when the key is on, but no start/fire..... :(

If you hear the pump running, before testing pressure, check your injectors for pulse as the engine is cranked. Need a test light (multimeter isn't fast enough unless analog) but if you don't have a pulse at the injector, the problem is in the ignition circuit, not the fuel system.

ECM grounds the injector to fire it, so leads from light/meter go to each wire on the injector connector.
 
Jeff, I have a few spare used original IGN modules kickuing around if you want to come by and grab one. Help narrow your issue with out spending any money. 413-522-6764
 
^^^ Appreciate it man. I dug around and found a fuel pressure gauge I bought for the boat many years ago. I'll check this weekend and see where the pressure sits. If I need to explore the module, I'll give you a call, thanks!
 

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