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LS cams and computers

Bent77 said:
@sreidmx
Click to expand...
@Vombrown
Use a flywheel from a 2005-6 2500hd 6.0 with the nv4500
You’ll have to pull the dowels from the flywheel and tag the pressure plate with a 10mm drill bit or whatever the equivalent is. Then you will need the pressure plate bolts along with the Ls1 crank bolts as they are longer.
When you put the clutch disc on it’ll be more of a pita bet you’ll need to pay attention as to not install is misaligned.
 
This is everything I used for mine. All documented in my build
  • GM 12557583 pilot bearing
  • The flywheel BRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 502776
  • Luk clutch 04-064 or any 12" clutch for the sm465
  • ARP 134-2201 flywheel bolts
  • ARP 330-2802 pressure plate bolt
  • ARP Bellhousing Bolt Kits 134-0901

I found in my application I need the long throw out bearing to keep my clutch linkage happy. It functions with the short that came in the kit but I am at the end of my adjustment its not in its happy operating range.
 
@Vombrown
I came here to link this for you.
http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=57854.0

But after looking at your pics, I’m pretty sure you have a gen 3 motor. The reason I say that is the valley cover has provisions for knock sensors. They went to the side of the block in Gen IV. I think you can also check for Gen IV based on cam sensor position. Do your own research because I am thoroughly confused on what I even have in mine. Seller said it was an 05, but when I read the vin with HPtuners it comes back as a 2007. Mine is drive by wire, so I need to check for the cam sensor. Been under the weather the last few days.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
@Vombrown
I came here to link this for you.
http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=57854.0

But after looking at your pics, I’m pretty sure you have a gen 3 motor. The reason I say that is the valley cover has provisions for knock sensors. They went to the side of the block in Gen IV. I think you can also check for Gen IV based on cam sensor position. Do your own research because I am thoroughly confused on what I even have in mine. Seller said it was an 05, but when I read the vin with HPtuners it comes back as a 2007. Mine is drive by wire, so I need to check for the cam sensor. Been under the weather the last few days.
Click to expand...

That’s the bigger/better intake. I’d contact him to see if he has the fuel rails and injectors before I send you mine.
 
I think I made a big score today. Found a place that has a crap ton of 5.3 and 6.0's and I can get the parts CHEAP! So I have a couple questions before getting to pulling parts.

1. How much of the wiring harness do I need to get. I'm thinking fuse panel, relays, battery cables and the whole shebanga bang....

2. The two that I looked at, one 5.3l DBC and the other is a 6.0 DBW. Both bout the same year model. Any advantage to the 6.0 harness and intake? Obviously if I get the DBW harness I will get the throttle pedal as well.
 
IMO the DBW parts are going to be easier to find in a JY in a pinch, plus being more common now in parts houses.

The harness is usually in better shape as it's newer, and isn't hardly any more work to do vs the DBC.
 
OK guys, I got all my parts ordered for the connection with the sm465. Going tomorrow to pull the harness, intake and ECM from the donor truck. I've decided to pull the DBC stuff. Mostly as it's in the best shape and I know it all works as I can start the engine. One question, will 6.0 intake (taller and shaped differently than the 5.3l) give me anything extra?
 
Also....anyone recommend a company to reflash my ECM with a performance tune? The guy over at LT1swaps does them as well as a few others I have seen online. If one of the members here does it let me know and I'll send it to them. I like to keep things in house if I can
 
Lt1 swaps did mine before I got it. Since I took ownership, I purchased hptuners. There was very little that needed clean up based on his tune. I’d probably go with lt1swap if I didn’t have hptuners and needed to do it again.
 
I was going to let them do the harness as well as the ECM but the turnaround time is murder. 7-8 weeks and his turnaround time on the ECM is just a few days. I think I'll do my own I guess. I want to hear this thing run like next week, not next season.
 
My harness was purchased from speartech. If I recall correctly, they are kind of high. Another option for ya.
 
Black bear Performance is a popular online tuner. A lot of guys on Silverado/Sierra and Performance Trucks use them with plenty of happy results. I don't know if they'll do wiring too.

Also Team208 Motorsports is a sponsor on here and does some mail order stuff. From what I hear, he's one of the best.
 
I am sure I can do the harness myself but if someone could do it in a reasonable turnaround time I would let them do it to save me time.
 
One thing I have not sorted out is the fuel tank situation. I am dead set on running a rear PTO winch on this truck and as such a large single tank in the back looks like a no-go. When I get the bed off I will do some measuring but in my mind I don't see it working out. So I'll be stuck with the dual saddle tank setup. Need to figure that out to make it work. I'm wondering if I can just add an electric fuel pump on the frame rail and use new high pressure fuel lines. Rework my selector and still have 30 gallons of fuel on the truck. The other option is to run a slip tank in the bed. I don't REALLY want to do that but I can if I absolutely have to. I want to keep the bed open for hauling.
 
Vombrown said:
One thing I have not sorted out is the fuel tank situation. I am dead set on running a rear PTO winch on this truck and as such a large single tank in the back looks like a no-go. When I get the bed off I will do some measuring but in my mind I don't see it working out. So I'll be stuck with the dual saddle tank setup. Need to figure that out to make it work. I'm wondering if I can just add an electric fuel pump on the frame rail and use new high pressure fuel lines. Rework my selector and still have 30 gallons of fuel on the truck. The other option is to run a slip tank in the bed. I don't REALLY want to do that but I can if I absolutely have to. I want to keep the bed open for hauling.
Click to expand...

Got a PTO already? I know where you can get one :rotfl::rotfl:
 
Vombrown said:
One thing I have not sorted out is the fuel tank situation. I am dead set on running a rear PTO winch on this truck and as such a large single tank in the back looks like a no-go. When I get the bed off I will do some measuring but in my mind I don't see it working out. So I'll be stuck with the dual saddle tank setup. Need to figure that out to make it work. I'm wondering if I can just add an electric fuel pump on the frame rail and use new high pressure fuel lines. Rework my selector and still have 30 gallons of fuel on the truck. The other option is to run a slip tank in the bed. I don't REALLY want to do that but I can if I absolutely have to. I want to keep the bed open for hauling.
Click to expand...
I’m using an external pump with the dual switch valve. It’s returnless but that’s easy to remedy if needed
 
I’d think adding a second tank select like what’s already on it to use as a return would be my choice. One switch flips both valves. One valve one the pump side, with the pump being after the valve. I don’t know if it would suck the valve open though

I tried wiring mine line a 87& up TBI truck and it never worked right
 
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