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LS Motor Build - wiring question

westn11

westn11

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I'm finally getting around to assembling the rotating assembly of my 6.0 LS. I had the machine work done a few months ago but have been busy with house additions and the holidays. Hopefully I can have the short block done within the next two weeks. I'm going to try and mic and check clearances this week followed by a good wash and assembly next.

My plans are to keep the heads stock as I'm afraid that if I open them up, I'll sacrifice low end torque. Just an upgraded valve spring. I'm not sure what cam I'll end up going with, but I do know it will be easy on the valve train and make good all around power. No loose torque converters for me :-) Not sure on the intake either.

Pics for fun.


New Piston and Rod combo:

piston_rod.jpg
 
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Crank and Micrometer

The motor had low miles so I just had to have the crank polished. I used my micrometer to measue the main journal diameter which in turn I use to "zero" out the dial bore gauge which is used to determine main journal clearance. :-)

crank.jpg

caliper_gauge.jpg
 
Main journal #5 clearance

Main bearing number 5. I'm starting the process of measuring all main bearing clearances.

mic_clearance.jpg
 
Is your rod choice over kill for what you are planning to do? Are the factory rods that bad?
 
No, the rod bolts aren't that bad. One thing that I have started to learn about the LS motors is that some parts are not very serviceable. If this was an older generation motor, I would just buy better rod bolts. The factory LS rods are "cracked" cap which causes a problem when trying to recondition a rod after an upgraded rod bolt is torqued down.

To be honest, I'm in the process of trying to sell my drag/street car, so the Blazer will have to satisfy my need to make more power :-) I'm either an idiot or secretly love the frustration that aftermarket performance parts can sometimes cause. Probably both!

This motor will see future upgrades. I'm going to try and build a solid foundation now.
 
Okay, the rods aren't very serviceable. I just thought the torque to yield bolts had to be replace.
I hear you about building a solid foundation for future up grades. I've gone beyond what was my original planned output. Started causing issues later on.
 
Shortblock assembled. Work on v-train started tonight

I finished assembling the shortblock, so I have my sights set on getting the longblock assembled in the next few weeks. These motors are very similar to the old generation SBC's, with a few very different and strange changes.

For the rockers, I decided to stay with the stock rockers and upgrade the bearings. The new design from Comp utilizes caged roller bearings that greatly reduce the possibility of the bearing failure experienced with stock LS1 needle bearings, which can send loose needles throughout the engine upon failure.

Pic of factory rocker

stock_rocker.JPG
 
Oil pump

I kind of miss the old days of banging the oil pickup into the pump with a hammer and welding it in place. This new design is to easy... it just bolts up :-)

oil_pump.JPG
 
Camshaft

I went with a custom ground EPS/Comp camshaft that should have some good low to mid-range power. Power range is 1500-6800.

cam_card.jpg
 
westn11 said:
I kind of miss the old days of banging the oil pickup into the pump with a hammer and welding it in place. This new design is to easy... it just bolts up :-)
Click to expand...
Did they Hard Anodized that pump housing? or is it made of cast iron?
 
"Did they Hard Anodized that pump housing? or is it made of cast iron?"
It's definitely Cast, but it does have a different look to it?

"Fuel delivery"
I'll be using an upgraded pump in the factory tank, with new stainless lines.
 
westn11 said:
"Did they Hard Anodized that pump housing? or is it made of cast iron?"
It's definitely Cast, but it does have a different look to it?

"Fuel delivery"
I'll be using an upgraded pump in the factory tank, with new stainless lines.
Click to expand...

Cast iron or cast aluminum?

As for fuel delivery, this pump will work perfect...(it does not look like the picture, it has a straight hose, and the correct rubber bottom and wiring adaptor to be a direct swap.)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPN-GCA758-2/

I just put it in my truck TBI sending unit. Then, because I'll be running much higher pressure than the TBI was, I cut the barbs off, slid IF fittings on there, and double flared them. Then I could screw these IF-AN conversion fittings on there for a safe high pressure connection. This pump flows enough fuel at 13.5 V to supply a NA 720 hp. Here is how it turned out...

Fuel sender S.jpg
 
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