FYI. Earl's makes a fitting to go from OEM to AN.
But, it looks like its a little too late for that.
But, it looks like its a little too late for that.
CK5
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LS Motor Build - wiring question
- Thread starter westn11
- Start date
OEM was a hose barb with a worm gear clamp, how is there a fitting for that? Compression? It looked like this...
The oil pump is not aluminum. Some type of iron/steel.
Folkenheath - thanks for the pics of how you did your fuel tree. I just got back from the Carlisle swap meet and picked up some nice stainless line for the new fuel system. I'm definitely going to steal ideas from how you did yours :-) Did you order a new sending unit? If so, where from?
Folkenheath - thanks for the pics of how you did your fuel tree. I just got back from the Carlisle swap meet and picked up some nice stainless line for the new fuel system. I'm definitely going to steal ideas from how you did yours :-) Did you order a new sending unit? If so, where from?
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The sending unit I just got at the parts store, O'reilly or Advance have them, it just took 2 days to get. For the passenger side of a truck, it's # FG05N. But you'll have to look up the number for a blazer if that's what you have.
Edit: I see you have an 88 blazer? If that's the case, you don't need a new sending unit, that fuel pump will drop right in your factory sending unit. You just need to decide if you want to double flare it or just hope the clamps hold.
Actually, I believe the blazers had the steel braid with the o-ring flare.
OEM was a hose barb with a worm gear clamp, how is there a fitting for that? Compression? It looked like this...
Oh, the sending unit I used had the o-ring fittings, my bad.
Well, that would of been nice to have factory high pressure fittings. I wonder why the trucks don't have it and the blazers do. O'well.
FYI, the little hose that comes with the walbro pump is NOT rated for in tank use. Found that out this weekend. Kind of ridiculous if you ask me they incude hose for an in tank pump that isn't supposed to be submerged, anyway, you can get the right hose at O'Reilly, its a $26 for a one foot package of it. Part # 27093. You can tell the difference because most rubber fuel lines, if you look close at the end you can see a thin layer on the inside, and then the outer material that surrounds the threads is different. But on the submerible hose it's all one big piece of the same material it seems. Feels different too.
Carry on, I look forward to seeing it running.
FYI, the little hose that comes with the walbro pump is NOT rated for in tank use. Found that out this weekend. Kind of ridiculous if you ask me they incude hose for an in tank pump that isn't supposed to be submerged, anyway, you can get the right hose at O'Reilly, its a $26 for a one foot package of it. Part # 27093. You can tell the difference because most rubber fuel lines, if you look close at the end you can see a thin layer on the inside, and then the outer material that surrounds the threads is different. But on the submerible hose it's all one big piece of the same material it seems. Feels different too.
Carry on, I look forward to seeing it running.
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TheBeast_88K5
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I'm a watchin....
I hate it when you guys make me spend money :-)
Folkenheath inspired me to get a new fuel tank and pickup. I added a Walboro 255 to the pickup which ended up being an easy upgrade. Fit perfectly into the factory location.
New tank, new pickup, new walboro pump and AN fittings for the new teflon fuel line. Still waiting on one fitting for the return line.
Folkenheath inspired me to get a new fuel tank and pickup. I added a Walboro 255 to the pickup which ended up being an easy upgrade. Fit perfectly into the factory location.
New tank, new pickup, new walboro pump and AN fittings for the new teflon fuel line. Still waiting on one fitting for the return line.
LS tool kit
I also scored a Kent Moore toolkit for these LS motors. A LS doesn't have the pins that center the timing chain and rear cover that the older generation motors did. A lot of what this kit has I really don't need. However, a few of them are essential.
I called and emailed a few of the more reputable LS engine builders and asked them if they new any tricks to center these covers without buying the kit and they responded to quit being a hack and do it right the first time :-)
My hand is holding the tool that's used with the shiny plate behind it to align both front and rear covers.
I also scored a Kent Moore toolkit for these LS motors. A LS doesn't have the pins that center the timing chain and rear cover that the older generation motors did. A lot of what this kit has I really don't need. However, a few of them are essential.
I called and emailed a few of the more reputable LS engine builders and asked them if they new any tricks to center these covers without buying the kit and they responded to quit being a hack and do it right the first time :-)
My hand is holding the tool that's used with the shiny plate behind it to align both front and rear covers.
Nice progress, keep it up! I want to hear that puppy run! What is your planned schedule anyway?
i HOPE to having it running on a stand by July. However, being a business owner among various other commitments, I may be a little delayed.
The plan is to have it running on the ground and have all other parts in my posession before I start the actual swap. Something that I have learned about myself is that if I keep my projects down to smaller step, I dont procrastinate as much :-) The truck is in good driving condition now, so I don't want to loose the whole summer with the swap. I'm hoping to have the old drivetrain pulled and new one installed in one weekend. After that, I hope to get the other smaller details worked out in a week or two. HOPE.
The plan is to have it running on the ground and have all other parts in my posession before I start the actual swap. Something that I have learned about myself is that if I keep my projects down to smaller step, I dont procrastinate as much :-) The truck is in good driving condition now, so I don't want to loose the whole summer with the swap. I'm hoping to have the old drivetrain pulled and new one installed in one weekend. After that, I hope to get the other smaller details worked out in a week or two. HOPE.
When i did mine, i read about the way to do it with out the tools, you install the covers and oil pan with the bolts all loose, then with the blancer installed you slowly tighten all the bolts up. It worked for me i put mine together 2 years ago and have no engine leaks
Yeah, I read about a lot of people who did that. To be honest, it was on that path as well until I found the LS toolkit for a great price. A bunch of my buddies are starting to build and work on these motors, so I figured I would be the guy who loaned out this set of tools if they needed them :-)
little by little
I made a little more progress tonight. Basically the windage tray and front cover are on. Not much work, but every bit helps :-)
First pic is of the windage tray installed and oil pump pickup connected.
I made a little more progress tonight. Basically the windage tray and front cover are on. Not much work, but every bit helps :-)
First pic is of the windage tray installed and oil pump pickup connected.
Kent Moore tool
The next pic shows how the Kent-Moore tools are used to align the front cover.
Basically the top plate acts as the oil pan, but has provisions cut into the plate to compensate for the gasket sitting higher than the oil pan rail. This will align the cover up and down. The tool that slides over the crank snout uses the two arms to slide around the front cover and align it left to right. With these two tools aligned you can then tighten down the cover bolts and "lock" it into place.
The next pic shows how the Kent-Moore tools are used to align the front cover.
Basically the top plate acts as the oil pan, but has provisions cut into the plate to compensate for the gasket sitting higher than the oil pan rail. This will align the cover up and down. The tool that slides over the crank snout uses the two arms to slide around the front cover and align it left to right. With these two tools aligned you can then tighten down the cover bolts and "lock" it into place.
Front seal tool
The last thing I did was install the front crank seal into the cover. I was tempted to use a big socket and just tap it in, but I figured I would use the correct of tools to do the job
Basically anyone who has used a harmonic balancer installer (not an impact), can figure out how this thing works. The large bolt threads into the crank bolt threads and as you tighten up the nut, it pushes the plastic cup in, which pushes the seal into the cover. After using it, I'm kinda impressed how well it works. No more fighting the seal to get it to seat square with the hole.
The last thing I did was install the front crank seal into the cover. I was tempted to use a big socket and just tap it in, but I figured I would use the correct of tools to do the job
Basically anyone who has used a harmonic balancer installer (not an impact), can figure out how this thing works. The large bolt threads into the crank bolt threads and as you tighten up the nut, it pushes the plastic cup in, which pushes the seal into the cover. After using it, I'm kinda impressed how well it works. No more fighting the seal to get it to seat square with the hole.
done for the night.
Last pic is how things sit now.
I hope I'm not boring you guys with this motor build as it's not that exciting and not much different than a traditional SBC build. I just figured I would post each step not matter how easy it is, to give you an idea of some of the differences.
Trust me, for someone like me, it's hard to not order a big turbo or dual stage nitrous kit. The thought passes my mind daily
I have to remind myself that it doesn't make sense for this build.
Off topic, how do I post multiple pics into one reply and be able to put text above each pic. As a senior software engineer, I'm embarrassed to ask!
Last pic is how things sit now.
I hope I'm not boring you guys with this motor build as it's not that exciting and not much different than a traditional SBC build. I just figured I would post each step not matter how easy it is, to give you an idea of some of the differences.
Trust me, for someone like me, it's hard to not order a big turbo or dual stage nitrous kit. The thought passes my mind daily
I have to remind myself that it doesn't make sense for this build.Off topic, how do I post multiple pics into one reply and be able to put text above each pic. As a senior software engineer, I'm embarrassed to ask!
looking good!
