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Lug nuts wont stay on???WTF

TSewell

1/2 ton status
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Apr 23, 2012
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Any of you ever have a problem with your lug nuts not staying on. No matter how much i thighten them, they seem to find a way to loosen up. Seems to be a recurring problem that has now, for the ~5th time, has managed to destroy my wheel studs and my rim. I am about to resort to Blue-Loctite when i install my new wheel studs. This seems to only happen on the front, and i wanna say its because how short the wheel stud is. I dont think its grabing enough threads. What are your thoughts? Is this somthing that is a problem for some of you?
 
If the studs are too short for the style of wheel you're running then you'll need to buy longer studs.
 
The only time I have seen this problem is when the wrong lug nuts or wrong torque tightness are being used.

Is this on 1 wheel or all of them?
If its one wheel only, I could assume that the studs may need to be changed along with the lugs to start from fresh.
 
should have min of 5 full turns of thread before you reach the bottom out and start tourqing them down.

and the gm 4x4 1/2 tons with 7/16 was to tiny if you ask lots of guys. some have upgraded to 1/2 inch with little digging for studs that will work.

and should be no more than 90-100 ft-lb on the 7/16 stuff or you can strech / snap the studs.

also if aluminum rims good clean back side mating surface to hub/rotor face. and clean seat ares were cone/tapper of lug nut sits. and little oil on threads a good thing as if to dry and crusty on threads can give false tourqe and def come loose . seen it and had it happen before.
 
If the studs are too short for the style of wheel you're running then you'll need to buy longer studs.
Thats the problem. They dont make longer studs. I can only find them in the factory size. Does anyone know of any aftermarket, or longer studs out there?
 
What is the application? I work at a parts house and can try and look one up for you? Also how much longer do they need to be?
 
What is the application? I work at a parts house and can try and look one up for you? Also how much longer do they need to be?
1988 Chevy K5 front wheel studs. I would like them to be at least another inch longer than factory. Thanks bro!:waytogo:
 
The computer gives me a 610-179 dorman number. Has a .565 knurl diameter and a length of 1 3/4 in.

The next size up is 2in long but the thread length changes is the shoulder length that changes. It does not look like it will help.
 
If you want to step up to a 1/2 -20 stud the part number is 610-391. The length is 2 3/32nds.
 
The computer gives me a 610-179 dorman number. Has a .565 knurl diameter and a length of 1 3/4 in.

The next size up is 2in long but the thread length changes is the shoulder length that changes. It does not look like it will help.
Yup. Just went to the parts store and found 610-390, wich are a lot longer but the knurl is next to the head. Not sure if it will work.
 
If you want to step up to a 1/2 -20 stud the part number is 610-391. The length is 2 3/32nds.
Just looked at that one. They don't have a rotor in stock so I'm gonna run home and grab my rotor and bring it back to see if it will work.
 
KMAYK5-610-391 wont work. The knurl sits right next to the head. The stud hole on rotor is acually tappered. From the back side it goes from .580 to .565. Im going to have to use a factory stud with a .580 knurl, or suck it up and shell out the coin for the ARP studs. Can you find me one with a .580 knurl?
 
What kind of wheel you have that needs longer studs? Maybe you have the wrong style lug nuts.
Its a aluminum aftermarket wheel. I believe they are made by Superior. Its kindda thick and i think thats my problem.
 

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