British Slave
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I would suggest you take one of the wheels to Discount tire and let them sell you a set of lug nuts to fit.
CK5
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Lug nuts wont stay on???WTF
- Thread starter TSewell
- Start date
The closest Discount tire is over 100 miles away. And not sure i need to go to a Discount tire to get 7/16-20 60* conical seat lug nuts. But now i need to replace my studs since they are all jacked up so i see it has a upgrade to get a longer and stronger wheel stud.
British Slave
1/2 ton status
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Just a suggestion. When I changed wheels, it took about $35 and ten minutes to get a set that fit right the first time.
What gets people the most is the seat. Is is 60*, is it 45*, is it shank, is it ball seat, is it flange, ect ect??? You have to know your seat or you will never one that works, or in your instance takes 10 times. Thank you for the suggestion however.
I would prefer 1/2, but 7/16th is fine.
if i recall you want the knurling to seat in the hub not the rotor. so majke sure the knurl is were the stocker is in relation to new stud.
****. Your right. Those studs actually hold the rotor and the hub together. If i was to put the
knurl in the rotor than the hub would just fall off. I just took all the studs out and, BAM, off cam the ****ing rotor. Will this changes everything.
rotor is a floating object on the assembly bleave it or not even on a super tiny scale of movement. . thats why you want the stud to seat in the NON moving part of the assembly .
been wrenching for years. i dont forget much. 
fabjunkie
1/2 ton status
You didn't mention how you are pressing the new studs in so I'll throw this out there. Something I did a long time ago was not get the new studs pressed all the way in to the hub although they seemed to be tight. I was using a hammer and punch. Anyway after some driving they loosened up because the stud pulled the rest of the way into the hub allowing the wheel to be loose. Just something to check. My $.02
yep always redo tourqe after first 5-10 miles then 50 and 100 if at all possible. by then thay should be good to go.
if i couldnt do that i tourqed them up and removed and redid this 2-3 time to make sure thay were in place with full pull on the studs few times.
if i couldnt do that i tourqed them up and removed and redid this 2-3 time to make sure thay were in place with full pull on the studs few times.
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
Yeah, here's another vote for re-torque after 5-10 miles. Also be sure you torque it to the recommended spec. If you over-tighten them you can cause more problems.
This has been researched already - there is a decent 1/2" one available without going ARP, but it requires some drilling:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289644
Wait, that solution was to go 1/2" at the same length, not longer. You might be able to start with the 610-136 stud and find a longer version, though.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289644
Wait, that solution was to go 1/2" at the same length, not longer. You might be able to start with the 610-136 stud and find a longer version, though.
I was wondering if that post would come up. 
I don't believe there is ANY drop-in 7/16" option out there, sorry. The GM front hub/rotor/lug stud relationship is apparently unusual. The 1/2" one I mention in the linked thread is the only one I found that is designed similar, if not larger.
Read my specs, you'll see how the rotor/hub holes diameters are different. Hopefully I save you some time, I spent hours looking through the offerings.
Only hope of going longer and staying 7/16", is if you can find an aftermarket piece like ARP or Moroso, that has a knurl length that is long enough to bite into the hub. Drilling would still be required since the hub stud hole is a smaller diameter than the rotor stud hole.
I don't believe there is ANY drop-in 7/16" option out there, sorry. The GM front hub/rotor/lug stud relationship is apparently unusual. The 1/2" one I mention in the linked thread is the only one I found that is designed similar, if not larger.
Read my specs, you'll see how the rotor/hub holes diameters are different. Hopefully I save you some time, I spent hours looking through the offerings.
Only hope of going longer and staying 7/16", is if you can find an aftermarket piece like ARP or Moroso, that has a knurl length that is long enough to bite into the hub. Drilling would still be required since the hub stud hole is a smaller diameter than the rotor stud hole.
