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M1008 Cucv Ls Swap Cadolet Build, long range Blazer Bash 2026 prep

Converting my M1008 from 6.2 Diesel to LQ9 power
Overview Gallery Discussion
If you have a voltmeter disconnect the positive battery cable and hook the meter up between the battery post and the cable with it set on volts. It should read like 12.6 volts if you have a draw. Remove fuses or disconnect circuits until your voltage reading goes away. Make sure your dome light isn't on while doing this or it will trick you.
 
77snowwheeler said:
If your trying to get it done, without spending a ton of time, on chasing that draw, you could put in a battery switch. That way, you could troubleshoot a little at a time while your using your truck. I have a very slight draw, but I’ll drive my truck around once a week, so it doesn’t effect much. But if it was a stronger draw, I’d put a switch in.
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Thats a good idea. Ill look into that.
 
Truckman4life said:
If you have a voltmeter disconnect the positive battery cable and hook the meter up between the battery post and the cable with it set on volts. It should read like 12.6 volts if you have a draw. Remove fuses or disconnect circuits until your voltage reading goes away. Make sure your dome light isn't on while doing this or it will trick you.
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Thank you, this is perfect I have a nice Fluke I can use.
 
So my battery is bad, this happened before but I thought it was with a used battery that went bad. when my truck sits for a few days something happens and kills the battery. I'm not sure where to start on this.
 
Truckman4life said:
If you have a voltmeter disconnect the positive battery cable and hook the meter up between the battery post and the cable with it set on volts. It should read like 12.6 volts if you have a draw. Remove fuses or disconnect circuits until your voltage reading goes away. Make sure your dome light isn't on while doing this or it will trick you.
Click to expand...
I use the ammeter side of my meter the same way. Typically 40-60 milliamperes is pretty normal to see (pcm memory, radio, etc). When it gets closer to a full amp you’ll be killing a battery overnight.

Same process though, pull fuses until the majority of the draw goes away.

Most meters only have a 5 or 10 amp fuse inside them so don’t go and try to operate anything with your meter hooked up.
 
Start with a good battery and make sure it's charging correctly and also check voltages in the cab and at the major connections on the engine and make sure everything is the same. Then go after whether or not it has a draw. Some alternators can also draw voltage and kill a battery.
 
ZooMad75 said:
I use the ammeter side of my meter the same way. Typically 40-60 milliamperes is pretty normal to see (pcm memory, radio, etc). When it gets closer to a full amp you’ll be killing a battery overnight.

Same process though, pull fuses until the majority of the draw goes away.

Most meters only have a 5 or 10 amp fuse inside them so don’t go and try to operate anything with your meter hooked up.
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I figured it was easier to start with voltage then move to if it's sucking enough amps to worry about.
 
Truckman4life said:
I figured it was easier to start with voltage then move to if it's sucking enough amps to worry about.
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Using amps is the way Gm taught me many moons ago. It stuck with me.

At least in his case there really isn’t a ton of stuff to chase. Should be able to pull the constant power for the LS ecm separately. Pull the power wire from the alternator and if those don’t change anything it’s time to start pulling fuses.
 
Truckman4life said:
Start with a good battery and make sure it's charging correctly and also check voltages in the cab and at the major connections on the engine and make sure everything is the same. Then go after whether or not it has a draw. Some alternators can also draw voltage and kill a battery.
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odd thing is its a different engine and harness than last time this happened.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Using amps is the way Gm taught me many moons ago. It stuck with me.

At least in his case there really isn’t a ton of stuff to chase. Should be able to pull the constant power for the LS ecm separately. Pull the power wire from the alternator and if those don’t change anything it’s time to start pulling fuses.
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So with the swap and probably similar to yours i have the harness fuse block and then the chassis fuse block. when you mean pull the power wire am I pulling the wire that runs to the back of the alt that runs to the battery?
 
Cucv_M1008 said:
So with the swap and probably similar to yours i have the harness fuse block and then the chassis fuse block. when you mean pull the power wire am I pulling the wire that runs to the back of the alt that runs to the battery?
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Yeah, you should have one or two wires from your swap harness to the battery. One will probably be to switched power but one will be hot at all time.

The main power wire on the back of the alternator is what to pull.
 
I have the old seat belt buzzer Dad had me take out of his old impala.
Put 2 long leads on it. Hook it in series with the positive post, then go looking for electrical "leaks". Pull the right fuse and the buzzing stops.
 
I had to custom make some blocks for the back, after brand new springs. That made the back higher, by 1 1/2 which settled after the weight of the equipment in the back.
 
So I installed the bumper light mount and my lights are too big so they hit the cross bar on the brush guard, I spoke with my buddy who's making them, same guy I am working on the bumpers with and he is going to make the light mount a half inch wider to accommodate larger lights. 20221231_131317.jpg20221231_131202.jpg

20221231_131138.jpg
 
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