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Making steering faster with hydraulic assist

My CUCV does... that's why I haven't put my smaller one on yet, I need to convert it to 12v so I can lose the extra alternator. yada yada...
 
Hey sorry to revive an old thread but y'all were talking about exactly what I was wanting to know.

Anyway.. Has anyone attempted to drill out passages in the box itself? Restrictions in the box and possibly lines/fittings seem to be the problem with slow steering not the amount of pressure the pump puts out. You can bump up the pressure and improve the speed but I think your just masking the real problem. I thought I read about one of the company's who rebuild and tap them actually modifying the internals of the box while they're in there. I'm about to rebuild mine and tap it for running a 1.5 ram assist and I'm thinking about drilling out the passages while I'm there. I've studied the internals pretty well and experimented on a bad box I have so I think I can make some improvements to it. What do y'all think?
 
Hey sorry to revive an old thread but y'all were talking about exactly what I was wanting to know.

Anyway.. Has anyone attempted to drill out passages in the box itself? Restrictions in the box and possibly lines/fittings seem to be the problem with slow steering not the amount of pressure the pump puts out. You can bump up the pressure and improve the speed but I think your just masking the real problem. I thought I read about one of the company's who rebuild and tap them actually modifying the internals of the box while they're in there. I'm about to rebuild mine and tap it for running a 1.5 ram assist and I'm thinking about drilling out the passages while I'm there. I've studied the internals pretty well and experimented on a bad box I have so I think I can make some improvements to it. What do y'all think?

The bottleneck is the little passage going to the front of the piston along the side of the casting. I can't think of any tool that could machine that part of the casting, not to mention the wall thickness doesn't allow for it. However, you could bypass that passage externally by threading fittings in and running a hose or something along the side of the box.

I don't really see the point though. You'd be introducing several new mechanical and hydraulic failure points. The factory box will run a surplus center ram totally fine if you drill out the flow restriction valve on the back of the pump. Mine drove better on the street than it did stock. I would have been totally comfortable racing with it even.
 
Yes that's the smallest passage of all of them it's about an 1/8". I think the only reason they made it that small was because it has to stay between the two seals on the rotary valve and going any larger will cause the hole to go past those seals. I was thinking of drilling 1 or 2 holes along side it down to the same point to increase the flow there. If you remove the little ball bearing to see the actual passage running down the length of the box, It's about 1/4" so I think it's adequate as is. The other restriction is at the other end of the box and it's about 3/16" but it could stand to be drilled out too.

Another thing I'm wondering is theoretically if I drill everything out like this does anyone see any issues with me running it this way until I get the ram hooked up?

This is the front hole, this box has bad scoring inside but it shows where the seals sit.


This one's on the other end, I believe it can easily be drilled out to 1/4" or so without any other issues.
 
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I don't quite get what you are attempting to do. More fluid flow may allow easier steering, but it is still a mechanical system. It will only steer as fast as you can spin the steering wheel. Are you having issues pushing big tires?

I have 35's and a stock box with a 1.5" ram. I can spin as fast as I want to on dry pavement.
 
Yes that's the smallest passage of all of them it's about an 1/8". I think the only reason they made it that small was because it has to stay between the two seals on the piston and going any larger will cause the hole to go past those seals. I was thinking of drilling 1 or 2 holes along side it down to the same point to increase the flow there. If you remove the little ball bearing to see the actual passage running down the length of the box is, it's about 1/4" so I think it's adequate as is. The other restriction is at the other end of the box and it's about 3/16" but it could stand to be drilled out too.

Another thing I'm wondering is theoretical if I drill everything out like this does anyone see any issues with me running it this way until I get the ram hooked up?

This is the front hole, this box has bad scoring inside but it shows where the seals sit.


This one's on the other end, I believe it can easily be drilled out to 1/4" or so without any other issues.

So the passages are larger than the holes themselves? In that case I think you should try it and document your results for us Haha.

Only thing it should do is allow the hydraulic fluid to push on the piston faster. Won't effect steering wheel feedback since that should be controlled by the spring valve on the worm gear and the hydraulic pressure. The factory hydraulics are so small in volume that I highly doubt there's any circumstance where you would notice a faster hydraulic response.
 
I don't quite get what you are attempting to do. More fluid flow may allow easier steering, but it is still a mechanical system. It will only steer as fast as you can spin the steering wheel. Are you having issues pushing big tires?

I have 35's and a stock box with a 1.5" ram. I can spin as fast as I want to on dry pavement.

I've yet to run hydro assist but I'll be running 37's with a cummins so I'll have a little more weight in the front. It will be street driven too so I don't want to have any issues with slow steering. If you go back in this thread you'll see some having problems with the ram stopping them from spinning the wheel as fast as they need to.

So the passages are larger than the holes themselves? In that case I think you should try it and document your results for us Haha.

Only thing it should do is allow the hydraulic fluid to push on the piston faster. Won't effect steering wheel feedback since that should be controlled by the spring valve on the worm gear and the hydraulic pressure. The factory hydraulics are so small in volume that I highly doubt there's any circumstance where you would notice a faster hydraulic response.


Haha ok maybe I'll just go ahead and do it and be the guinea pig. I can always go back and modify the pump later but I'd rather have this done first as it'll already be apart and it's much more of a pain to disassemble/ reassemble.
 
I have a 1.75 ram and it's a little slow even with the pump mods. I think most guys with the 1.5 have no issues with speed though. I don't think more weight over it will affect it too much. The pressure is the pressure either way. You may change flow rate, but seems unnecessary with the 1.5 ram.
 
So I started modifying a good box and got the fittings drilled and tapped where I want them but I was wondering a few things. Hopefully these arrows will explain things so I don't have to do so much typing.


In addition to drilling out the other passages like I meantioned before, it looks like it won't be very useful unless I drill out these other holes I've highlighted in the rotary valve as well. The blue holes(there's 4 of them) are lined up with the one on the box. I'm not sure the red holes will benefit from being drilled or not because they're not sealed off on one side anyway.



Also the high pressure port of the box has a restrictor or check valve in place so I was thinking of removing it too so it's like the return port.






Do any of y'all with a better understanding of these things see a problem with my thinking? One of you already said the extra flow won't affect steering wheel feedback but wanted to double check before I go further.
 
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Yeah! Keep going! I put a complete PSC system on a buddy's '90 K5, and it has this problem. It has 3/8" lines and the smaller pulley didn't help. Granted, I now wonder about the pressure outlet fitting now.
 
I think I'm just gonna try it. Worse case scenario if it messes up the rotary valve I can easily remove that while it's in the truck and replace it with a stock one. I think I'm gonna run all 1/4" lines and fittings while I'm at it too, it couldn't hurt...
 

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