Cajun4x4
1/2 ton status
shoulda stayed with the 8" springs.... besides that, rock on
CK5
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Manny's 83 K10 (INDEX)(56K) Manny answers his critics and FALSE ACCUSATIONS
- Thread starter MuddinManny
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85mudbogger
1/2 ton status
yea x2 on the 208 my chain is out the top right now and all i did was hit some ruts with the front tires where some damn boggers got stuck in 2wd and im also runin 38s and watch that shift fork for it will leave you sittin in the middle of the big ole hole and are you runnin a rev limiter incase this happens, i wouldnt want to see that $$$$motor go to nuetral flat on the floor i hate it when my 208 kicked out, im glad to c a 205 is in your notes of things to do, for now im puttin another 208 in for i got 2 more and 5 more for parts but all have no darn shift forks grrrrrrrr, the low in these 208s are awesome though, MAD PROPS on your truck though 
Cajun4x4 said:shoulda stayed with the 8" springs.... besides that, rock on
why have 8" when you can have 10"? hes not going to be crawling obviously and the truck is super clean so he wouldnt want to cut it up. its a beautiful truck, i didnt realize how much of a difference 17" rims mad compared to 15's! looks sweet! drew your a punk, i think your just jealous
Cajun4x4
1/2 ton status
its cool, if you like how it turned out thats ALL that matters, i just perfered the stance of the truck i saw with 8" and 40 TSLs a lil more
cant wait to see it covered in mud
cant wait to see it covered in mud
get greasable bushings. it's only a small difference but every little thing you can do to improve the ride is worth it. when it comes to getting the bushing out of the rear shackle you can drill it and take it out in chunks. ORD sells the greasable bushing kits.
If your truck rode nice before it's because you had flatter springs in the rear with blocks. You are definitley going to notice a stiffer ride now.
If your truck rode nice before it's because you had flatter springs in the rear with blocks. You are definitley going to notice a stiffer ride now.
shane74
1/2 ton status
MuddinManny said:
Manny, they are referring to the dia. of the bushing that slides into the tube. You "should" have 1.5" dia. bushings.
You can get greasable bolts for your bushings from most good hardware suppliers. If you can't find them locally, try McMaster-Carr or Grainger.
Hey Manny looking good, I've come to expect that from you....
I appreciate your acknowledgement of our Yahweh, what a gift he has given, and don't ever think your not worthy of his love, and blessings.
So did you ever get the carb situation straightened out?
I appreciate your acknowledgement of our Yahweh, what a gift he has given, and don't ever think your not worthy of his love, and blessings.
So did you ever get the carb situation straightened out?
Wow....it definitely needs to be tuned to the new motor then.....
But before you do that, realize you can sink probably $100 into rebuild, and tuning parts to get it right. If an engine guru close by knows how to set them up by telling him what you got, I'd go that route.
Otherwise you might as well buy a jet kit, and acc. pump squirters up to 50, and plan on playing to get it dialed in. Also I would get a quick change vac. diaphram kit.
But before you do that, realize you can sink probably $100 into rebuild, and tuning parts to get it right. If an engine guru close by knows how to set them up by telling him what you got, I'd go that route.
Otherwise you might as well buy a jet kit, and acc. pump squirters up to 50, and plan on playing to get it dialed in. Also I would get a quick change vac. diaphram kit.
He does have the quick change diaphragm kit on that 750.
edit: I said jet, meant diaphragm
edit: I said jet, meant diaphragm
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SkysTheLimit
1/2 ton status
Well. That settles that.
Keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work!
bowtiepower00
1/2 ton status
Lookin' good Manny. Can't remember the last time I've seen a post as popular as this one.
I agree with your choice of tire size. 38's-40's generally are much more affordable than the larger sizes and keep breakage to a minimum. Built 1-tons with 40's will be pretty durable.
Echoing what some of the others have said, that 208 is going to be your weak link. You are running so much power that you're definately going to want make sure you're running the larger spline 205, you'll just spit out the 10 spline stuff. 205's are pretty readily available. I would avoid spending coin on the 208 just to pull it out again.
Running in the MUD! is a great reason to shave that 14FF, you can easily gain an inch of clearance under that thing, you could look at that like jumping 2" in tire size, just for an hour with a grinder and or sawzall. Every little bit of underside drag you can eliminate is going to help you in the deep stuff. Just make sure you leave enough surface for your diff cover to seal.
Keep up the good work...
I agree with your choice of tire size. 38's-40's generally are much more affordable than the larger sizes and keep breakage to a minimum. Built 1-tons with 40's will be pretty durable.
Echoing what some of the others have said, that 208 is going to be your weak link. You are running so much power that you're definately going to want make sure you're running the larger spline 205, you'll just spit out the 10 spline stuff. 205's are pretty readily available. I would avoid spending coin on the 208 just to pull it out again.
Running in the MUD! is a great reason to shave that 14FF, you can easily gain an inch of clearance under that thing, you could look at that like jumping 2" in tire size, just for an hour with a grinder and or sawzall. Every little bit of underside drag you can eliminate is going to help you in the deep stuff. Just make sure you leave enough surface for your diff cover to seal.
Keep up the good work...
Sweet. I want that dual battery setup. What was your reasoning with picking this one vs. the 12voltguy one? Just curious....
Sounds good. I knew you'd have a good reason 
The 12voltguy is a vendor here if i remember correctly, have never worked wiht him....but his setup is way less $$$, and i've been eyeing it mainly for that reason.
The 12voltguy is a vendor here if i remember correctly, have never worked wiht him....but his setup is way less $$$, and i've been eyeing it mainly for that reason.
I'm not doubting you in any way, and have definitely considered that setup in the past. Looking foward to hearing how you like it in the long run!
No worries, i've loved following your build. I have no real reason to get a dual setup yet, but i was looking into it to run some medical equip when sleeping near my truck.
Anyways, keep up the good work!
Anyways, keep up the good work!
dhcomp said:
12VoltGuy = SeaBass (Pirate4x4)
He'll never see a dime of my money....
Do you want to elaborate on that?
Sounds like a good plan. So, to get it driving, you need to get the shocks, brakes and drivelines? Not too much left, but its always the little things that seem to take the longest at the end of a project. I had a similiar experience when I first put in my 383. I ran it for the break in period, then buttoned up my exhaust. When I next started it, it was making very odd noises. I had to leave it at my In-laws house for a couple more weeks (its where I was working on it.) Turned out I had a rocker nut back off.
Hey man, don't stop now! you're almost there. I would focus on the stuff you need to do to get it where you can take it for a testdrive, i'd leave the cb and lights for later unless thats going to make you feel like finishing the rest. Its easy to get sidetracked on the silly details. I can't imagine how you've found the energy and time to do all that work, and also post up all the pics and stuff. I've just spent the last month getting my crewcab ready for paint, and I haven't had the time or even felt like starting a buildup post about it.
you da man!
you da man!
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