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manual valve body 700r4... (ITS IN..but i need help!)

shaun89

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i still need a new tranny and i want to keep it a 700,i planned on getting just a built fully auto one. but my buddy has a 700 with a manual valve body and ratchet shifter. but everything else is stock inside. do u think it would be strong enough to hold up to 400hp small block with 5.13s and 38s? im a little sketched out about everything else being stock with my hp.but he said that thing slams into gear when ur on it. and did chirp 3rd in a BUILT s10 but with only the stock 4.3 in it.
 
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I'm going with BTO's mv body... full line pressure, no tv, fine by me... little tough on the pump, definitely worth upgrading that at least.... 3/4 clutch too, etc...

If ya don't mind shifting it's the way to go with that trans imo...
 
alright thanks, if i got the tranny i would also get the shifter with it thankfully. has anyone used a manual valve body here in a DD? my buddy says it will shift real rough even at just normal throttle, this true?
 
Ive dd'd manual valve bodies, they shift incredibly hard in a car and very firm in a heavy truck.
 
so i found out he ran a np231 behind the 700 and found out its 27 spline...r there any serial numbers on my 208s tag to tell me if its 27 or 32?
 
nevermind! i just found that 208s that were mated to 700r's had 27 spline count and 208s mated to TH400s had 32 spline count
 
Also just so you know, almost all manual valve bodys are reverse pattern, the pattern would be

P R N 1 2 3 OD
 
If you do any actual trailriding with the truck I would suggest making sure it still has compression braking in at least 1st, otherwise it will just "free wheel" when coasting which isn't much fun on the trail for anytype of downhill section.
 
If you do any actual trailriding with the truck I would suggest making sure it still has compression braking in at least 1st, otherwise it will just "free wheel" when coasting which isn't much fun on the trail for anytype of downhill section.

wont it just act like it does if i put my fully down to 1st? or have no resistance and just roll?

nvm, i just found out its a TCI valve body with full engine compression capabilities, thanks for the heads up!
 
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wont it just act like it does if i put my fully down to 1st? or have no resistance and just roll?

nvm, i just found out its a TCI valve body with full engine compression capabilities, thanks for the heads up!

Sounds good. Yep, a lot of manual valve body kits have no engine compression braking and just free wheel when coasting.
 
so i found out the shifter he has (hurst v-matic 2) is kind of pissed off and im curious if anyone can point in the right direction for a shifter, it would be easier to mount one from the floor but i dont want a big throw when im shifting gears, so i think im gonna get a car shifter and mount it up near where my hand would sit, any suggestions for a shifter? im kind of liking this one but this is just an idea. http://www.hurst-shifters.com/hurst...LL-QUARTER-STICK/THE-ORIGINAL-QUARTER-STICK_3
 
The pic in the link won't work since it isn't a reverse shift pattern and also isn't for a 4 speed automatic. There are very few choices for a 700R4 reverse pattern shifter.

Here is your only choices for a Hurst shifter. http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...08216+400134+115+4294818674&Ntk=KeywordSearch

Here is your only choice for a TCI shifter. http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...08216+400252+115+4294818674&Ntk=KeywordSearch

Here is your only choice for an ATI shifter. http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...03956+4294908216+115+400250&Ntk=KeywordSearch
 
I am pretty sure you can get an Art Carr shifter in Reverse pattern for 700r4. It is not a ratchet but they are quality from what I hear. I intend to run one of those if I stay auto.

Dik
 
the AC gate shifters are available in the reverse pattern... the only difference between the reg and reverse is the gear sticker...
 

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