What years and different model manual window regulators will work in converting my 84 K5 to manual windows? I want to do away with the heavy window motors now that the doors come off.
CK5
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Manual window regulators
- Thread starter TerryD
- Start date
KansasTwister
1/2 ton status
should be 77-91. Does anyone know if we can simply buy brand new manual regulators say from oreillys and swap them in place of the power units? or do we need more from a junk set of doors? I think im gonna convert the k5 to manual.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ord=power+window+regulator&pt=01221&ppt=C0335
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ord=power+window+regulator&pt=01221&ppt=C0335
just regulators and the appropriate door panel..
KansasTwister
1/2 ton status
Is there so much different in the door panels I can't simply cut a hole in them? Not like it makes a HUGE difference on my beater rig anyways.
nope, no difference other than switch hole to handle hole..
Sweet. Thanks! Now to locate regulators.
phreddei166
1/2 ton status
This is what I used. They work great ! http://www.1aauto.com/1A/WindowRegulators/Chevy/K20-Truck/1AWRK00262/515736/1980
KansasTwister
1/2 ton status
1as price is so cheap. I bet they are same as the dormans. Look identical. but on the window handles is insane! Like 6 7 bucks in oreilly help isle.
Ordered the regulators from them. Hopefully selling the Jeep this weekend so I will be driving the K5 to work and back. I'd like to have the ability to roll down my windows.
Watching this thread not because I have a conversion but because I'm interested... I need to replace my manual window regulator... Looked at that site and didn't see anything for 76... Are later years compatible?
Well, ordered them at lunch time today and got a shipping notice at 3:30. Expected delivery on the 25th.
Can anyone give me a measurement for placing and cutting the holes for the cranks in my factory panels?
Can anyone give me a measurement for placing and cutting the holes for the cranks in my factory panels?
on my 87, the splined shaft is 7 1/2" in front of the very front edge of the door handle.. the part you pull...
and it's just about directly inline with that... with the door panel off, the spline is 5"s down from the upper sheetmetal lip at the felt area..
and it's just about directly inline with that... with the door panel off, the spline is 5"s down from the upper sheetmetal lip at the felt area..
Thanks. Now as soon as they get here, I get to swapping!
The regulators arrived Monday, but I worked Monday eveningand it was pouring rain last night. May give one side a shot this evening if it is decent. Thanks for the help!
Got the drivers side regulator in tonight. That one little sweet spot where it just falls into the tracks is a pain to find, but the door laying on the basement floor helped. The tracks are pretty rough and with the door bent it goes up a little rough. I have to get some door panel clips and cut the hole for the crank in the panel but it is back on the truck now. Might try to get the other side done tomorrow night.
KansasTwister
1/2 ton status
Im gonna go look at one of my junk doors before I attempt it, but does she just unbolt? no rivets?
My old power window motors have studs on top and threaded inserts on bottom. The new manual regulators have four threaded insets. The tracks are bad enough on my blazer that the regulator tore the mounting holes over time. However, the manual and power regulators only share two holes as the power regulator mounts low in the door and the manual ones mount high. A couple large washers keep the bottom bolts for the manual regulator in place.
To feet the power set up out, just roll it about a thirdnof the way down, unplug and unbolt it and it will move around in thendoor fairly easily so you can get the three rollers out of their tracks. To get the manual one in, you have to have the glass up, put the crank shaft in its hole, and crank it around and move the window until the rollers like up. There is a notch in the front top rollers track that the roller will slip into but it took me a bit to find it. Also, my door was laying on the floor of my basement where the glass wasn't trying to sever my arms/fingers.
When I worked on it originally while on the truck, lining up the factory power stuff, I used two wooden blocks and an Irwin quick clamp through the vent window to hold up the glass in place while I worked.
To feet the power set up out, just roll it about a thirdnof the way down, unplug and unbolt it and it will move around in thendoor fairly easily so you can get the three rollers out of their tracks. To get the manual one in, you have to have the glass up, put the crank shaft in its hole, and crank it around and move the window until the rollers like up. There is a notch in the front top rollers track that the roller will slip into but it took me a bit to find it. Also, my door was laying on the floor of my basement where the glass wasn't trying to sever my arms/fingers.
When I worked on it originally while on the truck, lining up the factory power stuff, I used two wooden blocks and an Irwin quick clamp through the vent window to hold up the glass in place while I worked.
Turns out that the power window switches were where the manual window crank hole would be in the door panel.
