Yeah,trannies aren't very forgiving when the fluid hasn't been changed in decades ,sometimes it is best not to change all the fluid or risk flushing one ,because the sludge and shellac in it might be the only thing keeping the seals and other parts with some wear from leaking or letting pressure bleed off...many automatics that were never serviced with 100+ thousand miles on them dont last long after a complete fluid change or power flushing...I'd just change the filter,maybe spray the underside of the valve body with some brake cleaner and just put the 4 quarts or whatever you lost by dropping the pan back in it and pray for the best...
I have had many old small engines and ones in farm tractors and was always very worried that if I changed the oil and used detergent oil,that they would suffer ,since many of them got only SAE 30 non-detergent oil back in the day,and adding any additives like Rislone or Marvel Oil might cause more harm than good..
I use non-detergent in engines on things like that unless I have had the engine apart and know it is clean inside and not all sludged up....seen more than one person ruin a running engine that was not perfect,but didn't smoke badly or knock by trying to flush the crankcase out or using high detergent oil like diesel rated 15W-40 in them....THEN they started smoking badly,or knocking,and a few tossed rods shortly after the flushing..
I used to think with todays better oil that sludge would not be as big a problem as it was back in the day,but certain engines I have seen are notorious for being sludge makers,like the Mopar 2.7's and some Jeep engines,I have seen quite a few with so much goop in the pan the engine actually starves for oil shortly after warming up,the sludge gets sucked up into the oil pump screen and blocks it...my friend has had to take the pans off many of those engines and either clean the screen,or put a new oil pump and screen on them and pray the bearings weren't badly damaged...