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Max pinion angle gm dana 60 cut and turn

treetrunk

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Any idea what the maximum amount I can rotate the pinion up safely without starving the pinion bearing or puking oil out axle seals Preparing to do a cut and turn for a very tall truck. Also it has a 700r4/205 with the short conversion So sticking with 1310 cv for now as that is all that will fit by the oil pan. Otherwise I would spend the money on hi angle 1350 or 1410 driveshaft and not rotate the pinion to extreme. Also has b52 springs in forward mount so I am stretched out. Thanks in advance.
 
Why won't the driveshaft clear the pan? I run a 1350cv/1410 driveshaft to a d60 and it clears a big block pan with room to spare.
 
You will starve the bearing so just pack it with grease or something. Being a 700 and 1310 cv I’m guessing it won’t be anything other than a street truck?
 
You will starve the bearing so just pack it with grease or something. Being a 700 and 1310 cv I’m guessing it won’t be anything other than a street truck?
Yes, well it's a built 700 but that is another debate. Since it is primarily a street truck I would prefer the pinion bearing in oil as it's possible it would see extended cruising speeds say headed the ski slopes. But greasing the pinion may be my only option. Good possible solution.
 
If doing the cut and rotate, why not get a HP60 and make it a pass drop? Or convert to driver drop. HP will be worth a couple more inches so you dont have to go as crazy with the rotate?

Is it a pickup? I would run divorced tcase if that tall so you can lengthen front shaft
 
If it will see speed loaded uses then make sure it still has the oil baffle on it. The ring gear rotation will throw oil into the pinion bearings and the baffle will keep the oil from flowing out too fast.
 
If it will see speed loaded uses then make sure it still has the oil baffle on it. The ring gear rotation will throw oil into the pinion bearings and the baffle will keep the oil from flowing out
If doing the cut and rotate, why not get a HP60 and make it a pass drop? Or convert to driver drop. HP will be worth a couple more inches so you dont have to go as crazy with the rotate?

Is it a pickup? I would run divorced tcase if that tall so you can lengthen front shaft
Yeah if I had the skills I would certainly go HP passenger drop I was fortunate enough to end up with a 78/79 60 that i used in a similar truck with driver drop 241. Minor clearancing on the shaft works fine. Finding another ford 60 is probably not in my cards though. I saw one going for over 5k not long ago.
 
Should be able to get away with 4 to 6-degrees diff rotate no problem. As far as trans pan clearance after market pans are not made for four wheel drive trucks. I had the same problem on my 4L80E with a B&M deep sump pan. There was almost no clearance at all between the double cardan joint and the pan, which is why I went back to my stock pan because the GM factory designed it to clear the drive shaft cardan joint.
 
If this is primarily on the street why not just turn the hubs out?
 
Should be able to get away with 4 to 6-degrees diff rotate no problem. As far as trans pan clearance after market pans are not made for four wheel drive trucks. I had the same problem on my 4L80E with a B&M deep sump pan. There was almost no clearance at all between the double cardan joint and the pan, which is why I went back to my stock pan because the GM factory designed it to clear the drive shaft cardan joint.
1310 cv just barely clears so I am limited on angle. And stremff for that matter. Assuming a 231 or 208 that came from the factory behind 700 allowed a bit more clearance.
 
1310 cv just barely clears so I am limited on angle. And stremff for that matter. Assuming a 231 or 208 that came from the factory behind 700 allowed a bit more clearance.
Companies like Off Road Design sell shim kits to rotate diffs for lifted vehicles. The most they sell is 6-degrees, which is probably because they know 6-degrees is the safest max. My square body has a 4L80E trans with a NP205 transfer case 10" lift and 38" tires.. With the aftermarket deep pan I only had about 1/8" of clearance between pan and cardan joint, but with the factory steel pan it has about 1" because the factory stock pan has a cut away in it for clearance the aftermarket pan did not. I have a set of 4-degree shims that will rotate the diff the proper amount for drive line angle I need. The only problem is that those shims take away caster from the diff, which is why I need to cut and rotate my axle Cs' and rotate them so I have enough positive caster after the shims are installed.

full
 
yes but those two t case are clocked lower than a 205. Is one reason they need that w shaped cross member.

Know the struggle myself, just finially got a front drive shaft in mine after being bluetooth for 18 years.

IMG_20230623_180446.jpg
 
yes but those two t case are clocked lower than a 205. Is one reason they need that w shaped cross member.

Know the struggle myself, just finially got a front drive shaft in mine after being bluetooth for 18 years.

View attachment 456118
Your front drive shaft comes closet to the trans pan right at the second cardan joint. My 4L80E/NP205 set up comes closest to the trans pan right at the cardan coupler.
 
@treetrunk have you looked in to clocking rings to rotate the tcase down a little? It might make enough difference to get beyond your clearance issues.
 
Didn't know there was a clocking ring for that t case. Its early 70's 10 spline front output. Not sure what pattern it is. I get confused on all that. What I do know if I was to clock it, it may push the cv closer to the pan. I went so far as to do a doubler to gain clearance and length.
@treetrunk have you looked in to clocking rings to rotate the tcase down a little? It might make enough difference to get beyond your clearance issues.
 
Didn't know there was a clocking ring for that t case. Its early 70's 10 spline front output. Not sure what pattern it is. I get confused on all that. What I do know if I was to clock it, it may push the cv closer to the pan. I went so far as to do a doubler to gain clearance and length.
Correction. Considered doing a doubler. But that is just stupid for a mall crawler. I think I have made up my mind to do cut and turn. 6 degrees. Clearance the 1310 as much as possible maybe flange. Both ends although not sure if there is a 1310 flanged cv. I think there is a 10spline available for the 205. That may get me the few degrees I need. If i could fit a 1350 or 1410 cv i would be willing to drop some coin for one of those high dollar high angle shafts.
 

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