BKinzey
1/2 ton status
Must be nice to have fabbing skills
It's really nice if you get an estimate on paying someone to do it for you
It's really nice if you get an estimate on paying someone to do it for you
CK5
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MaxPF's 6.2 build
- Thread starter MaxPF
- Start date
Must be nice to have fabbing skills
It's really nice if you get an estimate on paying someone to do it TO you
Fixed it for you...
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Well, a custom aluminum pan runs between $500 and $1k, depending on the complexity (and quality). I spent $2k on a TIG outfit and managed to scrap the first pan, so somehow I don't think having fab skills has put me ahead of the game 
OTOH I have wanted the TIG for some time, so it's all good 
OTOH I have wanted the TIG for some time, so it's all good 4x4_76
1/2 ton status
Any progress with the pan?
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Unfortunately I have been sidetracked by some more pressing concerns. I hope to get back to it within a week or so. When I do I will post up the progress 
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
The oil pan progresses
I have finally got back to working on the oil pan. Here's a pic of what I have so far:
The side rails were cut out of 1.5x.25" flatbar, the front rail was cut from 3x.25" wide flatbar, and the rear semicircle was made from .375" square bar. The sheetmetal is .090" thick, and all the material is 6061T6. In order to bend the rear semicircle I had to heat it to 800 degrees for about 20 minutes and water quench it. This brought it to an "O" condition, making it soft enough to easily form by hand. I used a 5lb fire extinguisher as a form, and had to pull a little bend back out to get it to fit properly. Then I tacked it up on the engine, removed it, welded it, and put it back on to make sure it still fit.
The side pieces are 4.5" tall. I have to make the pan in two pieces - upper and lower - in order to be able to reach all the interior parts to weld them. I will fit and weld up the upper part, then I will separately fit and weld the lower sump portion. Then I will weld the sump to the upper portion. I have to do it that way because I wouldn't be able to reach and maneuver the TIG torch and actually see what I am doing in the bottom of the pan if it was one piece.
I tacked the sides on, then clamped them down to the bench before welding them up. I was able to minimize the warpage, although the rails did bow a bit. It isn't nearly the warpage I got with the steel version, and it will fit just fine. So far I am pleased with how it is coming along. The hard part was welding the long seams on the rails. The rest shouldn't be any problem - I may get some warpage, but nothing that will prevent proper fit to the motor.
I have to work on my crossmember this weekend, but I plan to get back on the pan first thing Monday
Here's a couple more pics:
My TIG is still pretty rusty. Also, the beads come so close to the bolt holes that I will need to spotface each one for bold head clearance. No big deal
I have finally got back to working on the oil pan. Here's a pic of what I have so far:
The side rails were cut out of 1.5x.25" flatbar, the front rail was cut from 3x.25" wide flatbar, and the rear semicircle was made from .375" square bar. The sheetmetal is .090" thick, and all the material is 6061T6. In order to bend the rear semicircle I had to heat it to 800 degrees for about 20 minutes and water quench it. This brought it to an "O" condition, making it soft enough to easily form by hand. I used a 5lb fire extinguisher as a form, and had to pull a little bend back out to get it to fit properly. Then I tacked it up on the engine, removed it, welded it, and put it back on to make sure it still fit.
The side pieces are 4.5" tall. I have to make the pan in two pieces - upper and lower - in order to be able to reach all the interior parts to weld them. I will fit and weld up the upper part, then I will separately fit and weld the lower sump portion. Then I will weld the sump to the upper portion. I have to do it that way because I wouldn't be able to reach and maneuver the TIG torch and actually see what I am doing in the bottom of the pan if it was one piece.
I tacked the sides on, then clamped them down to the bench before welding them up. I was able to minimize the warpage, although the rails did bow a bit. It isn't nearly the warpage I got with the steel version, and it will fit just fine. So far I am pleased with how it is coming along. The hard part was welding the long seams on the rails. The rest shouldn't be any problem - I may get some warpage, but nothing that will prevent proper fit to the motor.
I have to work on my crossmember this weekend, but I plan to get back on the pan first thing Monday
Here's a couple more pics:
My TIG is still pretty rusty. Also, the beads come so close to the bolt holes that I will need to spotface each one for bold head clearance. No big deal
That is looking good...
BKinzey
1/2 ton status
It's OK but you can do much better. Go ahead and finish this one to work everything out then you can do a really nice one. The type of quality your rig deserves. I'll tell ya what, I'll give you $25 for the prototype.
It's Win-Win!
It's Win-Win!
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
I went to work on my crossmember today, and my friend informs me that he needs to go to his shop to machine some parts for his project. He mentions that his manual mill isn't set up, so I can use it if I need to. It takes me all of 5 minutes to load up my stuff and we make tracks to his shop.
Here's what I did today:
Since I am using aftermarket springs and big block valve rotators I needed to modify the guides and spring seats to fit them. This tool cuts the guide down to .625" OD, and cuts the spring seat to an OD of 1.750". I also cut the exhaust spring seat .040" and the intake .160" in order to get the proper 1.810" installed height on the valve springs.
The next thing I did was to cut down the mounts for the stock shaft rockers. The shortened pedestals will be used to mount my custom roller rocker setup. Here's the before pic:
Here it is after:
For whatever reason the bolt holes for the shaft aren't exactly perpendicular to the deck, but instead they are canted several degrees. I indicated the head in and plunged down each hole with a carbide ball end mill to "straighten" it so the drill wouldn't try to follow the original hole. Then I drilled through to the intake port with a 7/16" drill and tapped the holes to 1/2"-NC. Drilling through to the intake port was done simply to make tapping easier - it eliminated the need to run a bottoming tap in the holes. SBC heads are the same way, so it isn't a problem. I just have to remember to use sealer on the bolt threads.
Here's a pic of a finished head:
The heads are mostly finished. The precups need to be installed, but no mods need to be done to the head for that. I plan on precisely fitting each cup to eliminate the need and expense of resurfacing. Besides, I don't want the compression increased AT ALL. In fact, I may seat the intake valves a tad lower to drop the compression a tad.
Yup, there's nothing like spending a Saturday afternoon cutting up a perfectly good set of cylinder heads
Here's what I did today:
Since I am using aftermarket springs and big block valve rotators I needed to modify the guides and spring seats to fit them. This tool cuts the guide down to .625" OD, and cuts the spring seat to an OD of 1.750". I also cut the exhaust spring seat .040" and the intake .160" in order to get the proper 1.810" installed height on the valve springs.
The next thing I did was to cut down the mounts for the stock shaft rockers. The shortened pedestals will be used to mount my custom roller rocker setup. Here's the before pic:
Here it is after:
For whatever reason the bolt holes for the shaft aren't exactly perpendicular to the deck, but instead they are canted several degrees. I indicated the head in and plunged down each hole with a carbide ball end mill to "straighten" it so the drill wouldn't try to follow the original hole. Then I drilled through to the intake port with a 7/16" drill and tapped the holes to 1/2"-NC. Drilling through to the intake port was done simply to make tapping easier - it eliminated the need to run a bottoming tap in the holes. SBC heads are the same way, so it isn't a problem. I just have to remember to use sealer on the bolt threads.
Here's a pic of a finished head:
The heads are mostly finished. The precups need to be installed, but no mods need to be done to the head for that. I plan on precisely fitting each cup to eliminate the need and expense of resurfacing. Besides, I don't want the compression increased AT ALL. In fact, I may seat the intake valves a tad lower to drop the compression a tad.
Yup, there's nothing like spending a Saturday afternoon cutting up a perfectly good set of cylinder heads
max, i'm not going to lie to you... this is outstanding. absolutely outstanding. well done.
Well, now that you've done my heads when are you gonna have time to do yours?
Nice work man!!!
Rene
Nice work man!!!
Rene
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Thanks guys. I went ahead and did a mockup assembly today to check out my handiwork.
Here's what the BB rotators look like:
Here they are parked on the spring seats:
You can see how they fit closely over the bosses, and why I had to enlarge the spring pockets to accommodate them.
Here's the valves, springs, retainers, and keepers:
I mentioned that these springs are larger than the stockers. Here's a side-by-side comparison:
The stock spring has about 80lbs. on the seat, while these have 109lbs. at an installed height of 1.800".
The measured install height is 1.820" which is close enough to 1.800". Seat pressure should still be over 100lbs.
Here's one final pic. Try to imagine the rocker actually mounted to a pedestal
I spent a few hours messing with the prechamber. I think I have figured out a clever way of seating the precups to the proper depth without having to machine anything.
Hopefully it works. If not, I will go to plan B...
Here's what the BB rotators look like:
Here they are parked on the spring seats:
You can see how they fit closely over the bosses, and why I had to enlarge the spring pockets to accommodate them.
Here's the valves, springs, retainers, and keepers:
I mentioned that these springs are larger than the stockers. Here's a side-by-side comparison:
The stock spring has about 80lbs. on the seat, while these have 109lbs. at an installed height of 1.800".
The measured install height is 1.820" which is close enough to 1.800". Seat pressure should still be over 100lbs.
Here's one final pic. Try to imagine the rocker actually mounted to a pedestal
I spent a few hours messing with the prechamber. I think I have figured out a clever way of seating the precups to the proper depth without having to machine anything.
Hopefully it works. If not, I will go to plan B...
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Back to the oil pan
Well, it's about 2/3rds finished. I'll show some pics in order. First, I cut, fitted, and welded in the back piece:
Then I used a sheet metal brake to bend a piece for the front lip:
With a little careful sawzall action I trimmed it parallel with the front of the side pieces:
Then it was a simple matter of cutting a piece to fill in the rest and welding it up:
I also added a -12 AN fitting to the passenger side and a -6 AN to the drivers side for a turbo drain and bypass oil filter return respectively:
Here's pics of it installed on the engine:
Today I got one more piece fitted to the puzzle:
I used up the last of my argon welding that part so I have to go to the welding shop tomorrow before I can do any more work on the pan. All that remains is the sump portion, an internal baffle, the oil drain, and the dipstick hole. It will be nice to get the crankcase sealed up. Then all that remains is the heads
Well, it's about 2/3rds finished. I'll show some pics in order. First, I cut, fitted, and welded in the back piece:
Then I used a sheet metal brake to bend a piece for the front lip:
With a little careful sawzall action I trimmed it parallel with the front of the side pieces:
Then it was a simple matter of cutting a piece to fill in the rest and welding it up:
I also added a -12 AN fitting to the passenger side and a -6 AN to the drivers side for a turbo drain and bypass oil filter return respectively:
Here's pics of it installed on the engine:
Today I got one more piece fitted to the puzzle:
I used up the last of my argon welding that part so I have to go to the welding shop tomorrow before I can do any more work on the pan. All that remains is the sump portion, an internal baffle, the oil drain, and the dipstick hole. It will be nice to get the crankcase sealed up. Then all that remains is the heads
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
It's finally finished!!!
I finally got the oil pan done. Here's some pics:
Here's the sump portion with the baffle in it (the baffle hasn't been cut for oil pump clearance yet):
Here's the complete pan:
As I type this I have the pan in the oven at 500 degrees, which will hopefully reduce the stress in the welds a bit.
The next step is to bolt up the oil pump and install the pan. Then I can turn my attention to the heads and hopefully get this thing sealed up.
I finally got the oil pan done. Here's some pics:
Here's the sump portion with the baffle in it (the baffle hasn't been cut for oil pump clearance yet):
Here's the complete pan:
As I type this I have the pan in the oven at 500 degrees, which will hopefully reduce the stress in the welds a bit.
The next step is to bolt up the oil pump and install the pan. Then I can turn my attention to the heads and hopefully get this thing sealed up.
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
Lookin good! Done any leak testing on the pan? In that application filling the pan with solvent is as good as any other test. Any weeping of solvent obviously needs a bit more attention...but if it can sit for a few hours and stay dry on the outside you're gold.
Rene
Rene
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
Well, since it holds several gallons I chose to use water, with a bit of detergent to break the surface tension. I let the sump sit overnight and there were no leaks. The completed pan got the test for about an hour, and it looked good. If a leak shows up in service it will get fixed with JB weld
Since the pan is welded inside and out the odds of a leak are very small. Two pinholes would have to intersect in order for it to happen - not a likely scenario. By bigger long-term concern is the formation of a stress crack. Only time will tell on that, but with the new engine crossmember I have in mind the pan will be easy to remove if the need arises. Right now, I'm just happy to be finished with this PITA
Since the pan is welded inside and out the odds of a leak are very small. Two pinholes would have to intersect in order for it to happen - not a likely scenario. By bigger long-term concern is the formation of a stress crack. Only time will tell on that, but with the new engine crossmember I have in mind the pan will be easy to remove if the need arises. Right now, I'm just happy to be finished with this PITA
Right now, I'm just happy to be finished with this PITA
You say this with 10 guys lined up wondering when you will build theirs
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
At last!!!
So, I finished up the pan - or so I thought. It turns out that the internal baffle hit the oil pump Because of the way it was welded in I couldn't simply carve it out. I had to cut out the section of pan that the baffle rail was attached to, and then weld in a patch:
So, with the pan fixed I was FINALLY able to permanently install it
Next up: cylinder heads.
So, I finished up the pan - or so I thought. It turns out that the internal baffle hit the oil pump
Because of the way it was welded in I couldn't simply carve it out. I had to cut out the section of pan that the baffle rail was attached to, and then weld in a patch:
So, with the pan fixed I was FINALLY able to permanently install it
Next up: cylinder heads.
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
ewww..
Is that a jeep I see in the background?
Is that a jeep I see in the background?
