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Mechanical oil pressure gauge, hose question

K85 Octane

K85 Octane

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Ok, I'm pulling the electric autometer gauge out of my dash, swapping with a mechanical one. The directions don't mention bleeding the new hose, but it seems like it would be a good thing. Is it ok to just install or do I need to bleed the hose so it's full of oil up to the gauge?

Also, I really hate this dinky plastic hose. Has anyone replaced them with something a little bigger and stronger? Thinking about having a place nearby make me a hose without all the adapters/fittings/ leakable areas. :dunno:


:woot:
 
Ive got one in my K30, we just hooked it up, never bled it :dunno: seems fine. I'm still running the stock hose, I did "cover" it by running it inside of some rubber vac line to protect it a bit.
 
A quick bleed with the engine running won't hurt,,,but it will get air in the line again anyway.. I did it on my ford a few weeks back,,and the nylon hose has bubbles in it again...:dunno::dunno:

I don't like the nylon hoses either,,,there is a hydraulic hose place I use that makes em' up..... Steel braided,,,1/4 inch #4 fittings..
 
I used 1/8" copper tubing on the aftermarket oil pressure gauges,after having the nylon stuff either melt on a hot engine part or the time it came off the gauge,and I sprayed hot oil on my leg (and ruined a dress a GF was wearing on a date in my 69 GTO years ago!)...................................................................................................I dont trust plastic or nylon tubing much--never liked it being used as fuel lines either,though the fact it dont rust is good...but makes for hard repairs when one goes south.....you need not bother trying to bleed the air out of the oil lines,it wont affect the pressure readings and even if you bleed it,the air will return the next time the engine starts,as the oil will drain back into the engine after shutting it off ,leaving air in that line again..
 
dean, does that 6ft work out perfect or would you change anything? My gauge is top right, the hose would be long enough for this placement right?

Picture 120.jpg
 
yes, I originally bought the 3 footer when I had a carb'd 350, worked perfect. I went and installed a 454 later on and the 3 footer wouldn't reach...I then bought the 6 footer and it worked fine. I later went back to a tbi 350 and now the 6 footer is rolled behind the dash. I gave my 3 footer to my buddy for his 'cuda.
 
Mine is the autometer brand ordered from summit racing a long time ago, like 2004-5 or so, but couldn't find it on their site, so i linked the jegs...but it looks like the jegs link is for fuel pressure guages. Just make sure to get -3 or #3 for the size.
 
Don't use copper. The vibration will cause the tube to get brittle and crack where it connects at the engine. I know this from experience. Depending on how you route it it may last longer than mine but it will break eventually.
 
The factory gauges on my '72 K5 and other trucks of that vintage had either steel or copper tubing from the factory,with a "pigtail" wound into the tubing near the oil sender port,and it also had a rubber hose over the portion where it entered the firewall to protect it from chafing,or rubbing against under dash wiring to prevent short curcuits.........................................................................................................................................................................................................I never had any problems using copper,and trusted it more than plastic...you can buy fittings to convert 1/8" NPT threads to accept a 3/16" brake line tubing,which will withstand just about any vibration..rust will eat it before anything else bothers that..
 
I haven't had experience with mechanical oil pressure gauges, but given the risks and extra plumbing, is there an advantage to using them over an electric gauge?
 
I tried getting that Autometer hose from Oreily's, but they don't know if that can get it and left me in the dark. :dunno: I started wondering what it would cost to make one up. Local hose maker, with fittings and 5' SS braided hose, $33. :woot:
 
Reviving this older post... My Blazer is a '72, 350 engine.

Any more fellas using a braided style oil sending line like this? I assume it's NOT a copper line...
https://imgur.com/a/54LRnrR

Here's a copper line setup:
https://www.ebay.com/i/301444961685

I may change my (copper) oil gauge sending line due to a leak at the sender (after initially tightening down, it still leaks after my recent test drive).

I'll remove it just to see if line is not flared properly and see if it just needs re-seated, if that's at all possible...
Anyone else have a similar issue? I get about 10+ drops of oil after my drive that I'm certain is coming from the oil sending line.

In my researching this, it seems there's a lot of guys who stick with the copper line setup, mainly because of the maintainability and less chance of a blow-up behind the oil gauge.
 
I used brass compression fittings that had pipe thread to match the engine's oil port threads and the correct size compression ferrule for whatever size tubing you used..good parts stores stock them in Dorman or Weatherhead brand here locally..

It's tough to flare a 1/8" copper or steel line well,and not have it crack and leak when tightened,its so tiny...compression fittings will hold a lot more pressure than any oil pump can create,and its a lot easier to just shove the tube into the ferrule and tighten up the nut in that lovely black hole GM decided to put the sending unit in WAY in the back near the firewall..same deal at the back of the gauge,just get the right fitting to match the gauge and tube...

The new copper-nickel tubing sold for brake lines is better than plain copper,and wont rust like steel will...I would wind a "spring" coil in the tubing near the engine end to absorb vibrations and prevent any movement from pulling on the tubing..
 
I use the braided line...easy to put the
1/8mpt x 1/4 flare fitting in the block and then add the line. snake the line to the gauge and do the same... easy peasy... and will probably last forever,,, no vibration issues.
 
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