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Memory Loss: Sanding and painting truck Questions

Metrodps

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OK since my incident I not remember some things to good.:crazy: Have an electric Porter Cable sander and am going to try to work on my truck this week end.
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I am going to sand down some surface rust and rattle can primer then rattle can paint it.

I can't remember things I need to know.

What sand paper grit for light surface rust. Use ??? grit for heavier rust and filler.

Once sanded to bare metal use a prep/degreaser like trippleech


Put spot puddy on in lite layers allow to dry.


Sand with ????? grit. wipe with tac cloth.


Spray primer on what color for the black top coat and what color for the white? (I think red for dark paint and grey for light if I remember right).


Several light coats and then wet sand with 600 grit.



Seems some thing else I need to do but can not remember. Help me I forget so much I used to know. :(
 
ummmm dont use rattle can???????

rough sanding-40-80 grit depending on what your sanding

final sanding-220-400 depending how nice a finish you want


and dont use rattle can............................................EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
ummmm dont use rattle can???????

rough sanding-40-80 grit depending on what your sanding

final sanding-220-400 depending how nice a finish you want


and dont use rattle can............................................EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't see a problem at all using rattle can :confused: It's what i'm going to do with my truck. I've seen better rattle jobs than most people can use out of a spray gun

Everything else he said sounds good to me. Hell i haven't done any kind of body work in a loooong time much less painting.

Good luck. Oh and how big of a spot you fixing. I remember the incident but can't remember how bad it hurt it
 
Do not use spot putty, You need to use a filler that you add hardener too, you will get Alot better results. I would use 120 grit initially for surface rust then follow up with 220, although your using spray paint, im sure your not looking for show car results so 120 should be fine.

Also have fun if using gloss or semi-gloss paint, That stuff is near impposible to remove, gums up sandpaper just as quick as it hits it. I would recomend flat spray paint if you gotta go that way
 
can you post a pic of the repair area?
 
ummmm dont use rattle can???????

rough sanding-40-80 grit depending on what your sanding

final sanding-220-400 depending how nice a finish you want


and dont use rattle can............................................EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Yeah why? My entire truck is rattle canned and the spots where I prepped properly came out very tough.
 
i personaly like ppg or dupont.only thing rattle can is good for is bumpers axles and to be used as a guide coat.:D:D
i guess since i paint cars etc rattle can is like having a relative thats a meth head. you know its there but you avoid it at all costs.
 
i personaly like ppg or dupont.only thing rattle can is good for is bumpers axles and to be used as a guide coat.:D:D
i guess since i paint cars etc rattle can is like having a relative thats a meth head. you know its there but you avoid it at all costs.
Yeah i can understand that. That was my mentality out of school also. I told myself if i wanted something painted i'd do it the way i learned. Well not everyone has access to the equipment so i go and spray bomb now :D

It's much faster even though it may not turn
out show quality
 
Yeah I spray bomb everything...

Wish I had equipment to paint and get a decent hardened coat but the only thing I've ever really had issues with getting spray paint to stick good to was leaf springs...
 
For any filler, I would use a two part like was previously mentioned, also for the rough stuff, take it down to bare metal with ~36 grit to rough up the metal a little bit before putting any filler down. You want to make sure that it adheres well to the metal and wont lift at the edges or anything. Also do a rough grit for any additional layers of filler if you need it thicker in some areas. After you are done leveling the filler(personally would go 200,400,600, 800, but you can modify this for your needs since its a rattle can job), spray a few coats of etch primer and do a guide coat if you want it super sleak. I am not an expert, just what I have read and been told by several people in the past. I am sure Ryoken will chime in on the subjectm, he is definitely the CK5 paint expert.

Remington
 
Do not use spot putty, You need to use a filler that you add hardener too, you will get Alot better results.


I meant the green spot putty for little pitting areas. I know not to use it for holes. You need fiberglass and bondo. But I have metal if I need rear quarters done.
fenderLHrear1.jpg



can you post a pic of the repair area?

Will get pics done Sunday and post. been bad week been in bed three of five days. Hope Sunday is better. Feel like I need to do some thing summer is almost gone. Need to get floors welded trying to find some one on Craigslist to do it.
 
Here is the kind of rust I am talking about. Where the North Dakota decals were is area where it is.

PIC_0813.jpg

Drivers door

PIC_0811.jpg

Passengers door.

Then the typical rust over wheel well in rear.
PIC_0810.jpg


I just want to nip it in the bud before it gets worse. I hope to be out of Ohio and in Colorado by next summer. So no more darn founded salt! Ya know for the year and all it still has a shine to it too.
 
It looks like surface rust? any holes in it?
 
Dang you look like a pretty big guy in the reflection. :eek1: Anyways yeah i would just grind, sand, prime then paint. No big deal IMO
 
It looks like surface rust? any holes in it?

Yes just surface rust looks like there might be some pitting hence the reason for spot putty (the green stuff in tube). The holes are in floor at tailgate and drivers floor by screw hole.

Yea Randy after being shot several years ago I blow up. Being confined to a bed and being slit open from stem to stern took its toll. Not being mobile for a year didn't help either.

This was taken about six months before I was shot.
menoscar.jpg
 
Yes just surface rust looks like there might be some pitting hence the reason for spot putty (the green stuff in tube). The holes are in floor at tailgate and drivers floor by screw hole.

Yea Randy after being shot several years ago I blow up. Being confined to a bed and being slit open from stem to stern took its toll. Not being mobile for a year didn't help either.

This was taken about six months before I was shot.
menoscar.jpg
Yeah i remember you talkin about that once. Still blows my mind
 
use a 3M Roloc wheel on a die grinder to get the rust down to bare metal. prime with self etching primer to seal to surface and then put high build primer on top of the self etching. (as far as i know you cannot get epoxy primer in cans or i would say use that instead of self etching). then spray your top coat. i use SEM primers and duplicolor top coats and they seem to work well together and hold up nicely. as for spot putty, don't use it. USC makes a product called icing, its a two part putty thats used for deeper scratches and to fill pinholes left by body putty. its plastic unlike nitrostan which is a soybean product. if you need a good body filler use evercoat rage or evercoat rage gold. they don't sag or leave pinholes. as for sandpaper i use mirka p220 which is made in finland. it doesn't clog as much as regular paper but its really hard to find. you can use an equivalent like 3M, 3M makes a wet/dry sandpaper called Imperial thats really nice for final sanding. i wouldn't use anything lower than 80 or 60 to for surface prep.
 
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for killing surface rust i have had real good luck with navel jelly or extend or the product mar-hyde makes.grind the surface clean then treat.just putting primer over the rusted areas even if they are ground down wont stop it.
if you are planning on keeping the truck for a while take the time to do it right other wise you will be doing it again fairly soon.
 
So what is the sand paper grit do I use for the rust! I just honestly can't remember my mind is blank in that area. Some things are clear as can be others I just can't remember (all another post). Been in bed all day since saturday due to pain and walking. Really want to be able to do this next few good days I have guys. Please!



Type to start?

Type before Primer?

Type after primer?

Finish sanding?

And if I use the spot putty (green magic)?
 

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