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Might as well call this my crossover parts thread...

jonathon

jonathon

1/2 ton status
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Found a set for $80 locally.. nasty looking but functional.

Now, will these work with the same tie rod I got now? I seem to remember tie rod location being different, but not sure if the holes for the TRE's are. I know the spindles and such from my 10b will transfer right over.
 
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tie rod should work, but you need both knuckles, cause it goes in from the top, and you might run into spring clearance issues.
 
I recently changed my knuckles to flat tops for crossover, for the tie rod I had to add a zero rate, not because my tie rod rubbed but I could not get it out without taking off the u-bolts and lifting the truck off the axles. 1 inch zero rate gave me enough clearance.

and for reference I paid $95 for my knuckles. might be able to find them cheaper in a junk yard but I did not want to search that hard.
 
jonathon said:
Found a set for $80 locally.. nasty looking but functional.

Now, will these work with the same tie rod I got now? I seem to remember tie rod location being different, but not sure if the holes for the TRE's are. I know the spindles and such from my 10b will transfer right over.
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Pretty sure the tierods interchange, but you'll prolly have to switch it ... which is why you want both knuckles.

I seem to recall $75 or $100 being the vendor rate for used ones back when I got my stuff, which was a while ago, so that sounds like a reasonable price.

I'd soak 'em for a day or three in a bucket of carb cleaner or something, or find a local engine rebuilder to stick 'em in his cleaning oven for ya.

-- A
 
My stock 10 bolt were bottom up and the D44 flat tops were top down tie rod mounting. With a 2 1/2 inch lift, I had spring clearance issues with full drop - the tie rod hit. I had the really arch the springs by lifting the truck up to get the tie rod in and out. I went to a 4" lift and things were a lot better. I ultimately went to zero rates as well. Made things a whole lot easier.

I think I may have some pics in my build thread, I don't remember (link in sig line).

I paid $90 for the pair from a pick n pull place. They initially wanted $90.00 EACH.
 
I'm gonna go ahead and snag them then :wink1: I've got a 4" lift so I should be good to go there..

Even though the tie rod fits, is the d44 one different in some that would make clearance better? How'd the stock trucks with them work?
 
Oh, one last thing.. is there a difference between Dodge and GM knuckles? It's a passenger drop D44 out of a 3/4 ton of some sort with external hubs.
 
You will probably need a zero rate or a different tie rod. If you do the zero rate order the big arm for x over, I don't like the way the spacer looks on mine.
 
Yes, dodge is different. Their calipers mount to the knuckle on the ones I have seen. I believe, but have not seen, that earlier dodge knuckles could be ground to fit chevy brake plates. Later dodge?? knuckles have flat tops but have a really thin spot where the caliper rides.
 
forgot to mention that Im running 52s in front with an overload. the overload stays flat so with more arch in the spring (no overload or 4 inch front springs) clearance may be different.

I had enough clearance to run the setup the way it was without the zero rate but I would have to take apart my front end and lift the springs off the axle, overload would still be in the way if I just jacked the truck up. tie rod ends are something I would like to be able to change on the side of the road if one ever fails without having to disassemble my whole truck.

and dodge knuckles do bolt the caliper to the knuckle

8aba_1.JPG
 
jonathon said:
Oh, one last thing.. is there a difference between Dodge and GM knuckles? It's a passenger drop D44 out of a 3/4 ton of some sort with external hubs.
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stay away from dodge knuckles. i got them on my s10 nothing but a friggin pain. first off the tre end holes are to small they need to be retapered to fit the gm tie rod. second as someone said the caliper actually bolts to the knuckle. i had to hack all that stuff off in order to get the gm mounting plate to fit. AND! they dont stick out as far as the gm knuckle. i ran into the tie rod end from my cross over rubbing my tire.

also the spindle studs are shorter. which really aint that big of a deal you can just swap them over with your old gm ones

but other then all that they work fine :D im still running them a year later.

the ones i used i believe came off a 91 1/2 ton ramcharger
 
I'll know for sure tomorrow.... going to pick them up if all checks out in person. Couple people here have said the one I posted looks like a Chevy D44 so..

After that I just need a gear box, Skyy's kit, and the passenger side knuckle machined.

I was looking at my burb.. it might clear with the tie rod on top, my springs are pretty arched. Worst case I may pull a couple leaves and through a zero rate in(the bottom two leaves look like they only exist for height and not spring rate :doah:)
 
Or you could use tie-rod ends to a pre-73. The down side with using the earlier rod ends is the threads are 3/4-16 while the later long one piece drop tie rod have 7/8-18 thread.

steering-1.jpg
 
Kenny78 said:
JD is your tie rod custom? Where from?
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Yes, it is custom. I got the treaded bungs from Poly Performance, the DOM tubing for the local metal yard, and had a friend weld it together. It is a little light for a rock crawler, but it works fine for me. There is a factory tie-rod piece that tapers down at the end, but I decided to make my own.
 
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