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Might as well call this my crossover parts thread...

If you're asking me, it is because high steer is not really needed for a dune runner. Plus, high steer don't really work with the 52 spring swap unless you put the tie rod behind the axle. Other wise the drag link and tie rod will hit each other.
 
JDNobodi said:
If you're asking me, it is because high steer is not really needed for a dune runner. Plus, high steer don't really work with the 52 spring swap unless you put the tie rod behind the axle. Other wise the drag link and tie rod will hit each other.
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I've got Ballistic High Steer with the tie rod and draglink mounted towards the front. I haven't had any issues and I have 52's up front. Tie rod clearance above the springs is the only problem I'm encountering.
 
JDNobodi said:
Or you could use tie-rod ends to a pre-73. The down side with using the earlier rod ends is the threads are 3/4-16 while the later long one piece drop tie rod have 7/8-18 thread.
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What about running a tie rod from a 1st gen? You got my wheels turning.. maybe ORD could make me up a tie rod with that thread pitch.
 
Dumb question, but I'm going to assume this guy didn't remove the steering arm before pulling the knuckles.. any tricks to getting rid of the arm quick and dirty, with my only concern being the integrity of the knuckle? This axle looks rougher than anything I've ever seen in this area.. almost rust beltish.
 
Got my knuckles!

Now I went down to Napa to see about TRE's for a pre 73 4x4.. and :eek1:

$75 a piece, considered obsolete..

Any other suggestions?

ETA: Just found them on rock auto.. $45 or so a piece.. not as bad, looks like that'll be where I get 'em.

LMC also has them.. $40 a pop.
 
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jonathon said:
Got my knuckles!

Now I went down to Napa to see about TRE's for a pre 73 4x4.. and :eek1:

$75 a piece, considered obsolete..

Any other suggestions?

ETA: Just found them on rock auto.. $45 or so a piece.. not as bad, looks like that'll be where I get 'em.

LMC also has them.. $40 a pop.
Click to expand...

Why not Heims?
 
Interesting question, but no idea. Do they even make a heim that is stepped like the pre 73 tre's? Do heims work in place of tres?
 
jonathon said:
Got my knuckles!

Now I went down to Napa to see about TRE's for a pre 73 4x4.. and :eek1:

$75 a piece, considered obsolete..

Any other suggestions?

ETA: Just found them on rock auto.. $45 or so a piece.. not as bad, looks like that'll be where I get 'em.

LMC also has them.. $40 a pop.
Click to expand...
I bought mine from the local car quest and I was shocked at the price also. I later looked up LMC and kicked myself for not shopping around. I forgot how much the ends are.
 
jonathon said:
Dumb question, but I'm going to assume this guy didn't remove the steering arm before pulling the knuckles.. any tricks to getting rid of the arm quick and dirty, with my only concern being the integrity of the knuckle? This axle looks rougher than anything I've ever seen in this area.. almost rust beltish.
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I don't know, you could try soaking it a bucket of Coke, or pbblaster for a day. I just beat mine steering arm off with a BFH, but mine wasn't as rusted as yours was.
 
Never thought of coke... that sh!t will eat anything :haha:They are crusty...

The other thing I'm gonna need is new spindle studs and nuts. Are there sources for those other than the dealer?

I'm going to go with the Spicer TRE's from Rock Auto.. $5 more than LMC and I know what I'm getting. I'm going to talk to a friend and see if he can help me make the tie rod.. if not it looks like ORD can make me one. Save money where I can :doah:

What lenght should I shoot for if I make my own? I know it's gotta be adjustable somewhat for toe..
 
I wouldn't use a heim, TRE have a taper to them that allows for a much snugger fit than the bolt you would have to use for the heim. Correct me if I'm wrong but that is why when I put my 60 in that came with heims I converted back over.
 
A factory tie-rod is 52". I made mine 51" to make room for the jam nuts.
 
I'm gonna go with TRE's.. just more comfortable with them.

I was browsing poly performance's website.. lot of neat stuff there. Think I found my spindle stud kit. Price seems reasonable too.. also saw the weld in 3/4-16 threaded bungs for 1" id tube.
 
Thanks, forgot about partsmike.

Do you remember if the pre 73 TRE's were right hand or left hand thread, or do I need of each for the threaded insert?
 
jonathon said:
Thanks, forgot about partsmike.

Do you remember if the pre 73 TRE's were right hand or left hand thread, or do I need of each for the threaded insert?
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There is a right hand and left hand, and you would need both if you want to adjust with the tie-rod without breaking a taper at the knuckle.
 
when I put on my flat tops I looked at converting to an older style tie rod. I work at an OReillys and even with my employee discount it was going to cost me $95 for the tre's.

Thats why I cut down an old overload to use as a 0-rate and used my old straight tie rod from my factory knuckles.

I happy with the way it turned out though. My tie rod is now like 3 inches higher than it was so it is a little more protected.
 
Ya, one of each so you can loosen the jam nut and twist the whole TRE to make quick precise adjustments.
The steering arm taper nuts are probably what's giving you grief. I soaked mine in PB Blaster and waited a day, hit the steering arm with some heat and hit the washer with a chisel. Just enough really to break them free so you can twist them off atleast.
I like the heims. Might change my mind later, but I like'em now. Much better articulation if you ask me.
 
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