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Military Crew Cab Build-Cummins swap.

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I'm having a hard time finding an nv4500. Been scouring the FB groups and CL with no luck. Still havent decided on mounts or crossmember.

I've been running the dodge a bit trying to get a feel for the condition. There's a bit of vapor but no pressure. At the very least I've decided to do a head gasket on top of a reseal. Weighing the options on a hone and rering vs just running it. So no real progress other than research.

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Pull the cylinder head and inspect the cylinder walls. Mine had 325k on it and didn't need any cylinder work.
I've seen a few 300+ trucks not need any bottom end stuff.
 
obijuank5 said:
Pull the cylinder head and inspect the cylinder walls. Mine had 325k on it and didn't need any cylinder work.
I've seen a few 300+ trucks not need any bottom end stuff.
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Yup. Been into a ton of 12v's... I will say that if you are going to reseal it, might as well hone the cylinders and rering it. Clean it all up like new. MUCH easier to do when it's out and on a stand.
 
That was the plan when I got the head off, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. After doing a head gasket in the truck I'm looking forward to doing it on the stand. I just found a guy in a FB group who says hes going to pull a 4500 for a 5600 swap this week, so hopefully I've found my trans.
 
Vombrown said:
Yup. Been into a ton of 12v's... I will say that if you are going to reseal it, might as well hone the cylinders and rering it. Clean it all up like new. MUCH easier to do when it's out and on a stand.
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Where would you recommend I buy rings and other hard parts from?
 
We have great luck with Mahle brand parts. Literally identical to cummins brand head gasket. We tested that with Ford 6.0l, 6.4l, and 6.7l. All mahle matched oem ford. Likely made in the same factory.

Also, MAW do some studs. Injectors. 4k springs. Valve springs. Turbsky. Dual disc. You know, normal upgrades.
 
obijuank5 said:
We have great luck with Mahle brand parts. Literally identical to cummins brand head gasket. We tested that with Ford 6.0l, 6.4l, and 6.7l. All mahle matched oem ford. Likely made in the same factory.

Also, MAW do some studs. Injectors. 4k springs. Valve springs. Turbsky. Dual disc. You know, normal upgrades.
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I saw a post on FB about the head gasket the other day. Good information there. The condition of the engine determines the budget for fun upgrades at this point, but dont think I havent added all of those things to several shopping carts trying to justify them to myself on more than one occasion. I'm hoping to have enough money left over after parting out the dodge to at least do some basic fuel upgrades.
 
Pulled the Dodge into the shop and started tearing it down today. Just got the radiator out and some other things unhooked. Turns out the waterneck has been leaking onto the worn out belt and randomly stopping everything from turning which was an odd sight the first time I looked down while filling the radiator and noticed the fan not turning. I hope to have the engine out this week. My engine stand isnt looking forward to it.

My waterpump lost a bearing in the crew cab, so I'm going to warranty the one that cracked and get a video of the engine running before pulling it up and putting it up for sale.

I also bought new clearance lights from Amazon, because that's important for an engine swap.

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Finnegan just hung a 97 12 valve on the scale, with a bunch of crap still attached to the engine.

Just undet a 1000 pounds...
 
Justin V said:
Finnegan just hung a 97 12 valve on the scale, with a bunch of crap still attached to the engine.

Just undet a 1000 pounds...
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Seems to line up with what I've been reading. My stand is rated for 1k. Should be interesting. I'll have the head off shortly, should cut down on the strain.
 
Just stand a block of wood under the front of it when not being worked on for safety reasons. I had a complete Detroit Series 60 fall over off some blocks once with a trans on it. Good thing I was out of the way and luckily it was the old engine and didn't break anything important.
 
Truckman4life said:
Just stand a block of wood under the front of it when not being worked on for safety reasons. I had a complete Detroit Series 60 fall over off some blocks once with a trans on it. Good thing I was out of the way and luckily it was the old engine and didn't break anything important.
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Good idea, will do. I'd like to not have to pick it up off the floor.
 
Got a little more done yesterday. I wanted to have it out today but I wasn't feeling good. So hopefully I'll have it on the stand tomorrow or Thursday. This thing looks like it's been leaking for 325k of its 350k miles.


The guy with the 4500 still hasn't pulled it, so I'm about to start searching for another. I'm still undecided on mounts. As usual, no real news. But here's a picture or two of the progress.

I was too lazy to go rent the ac line tool so I did find that you do not need the tool to disconnect the dodge a.c. lines. I cut a zipties end long enough to fit in the spring then used the other half of the ziptie to secure it in the spring. Pushed up on the bottom ziptie with whatever tool was closest to me to force the cut part into the spring. Twist and pull and the lines were apart.

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Can't remember for sure but you can make a simple barring tool for most engines that uses the dampener. Take some 2" wide 1/4" or 3/8" strap about 3-4' long and install two studs(3/8" or 7/16" bolts) through one end far enough apart to fit the outter ring of the dampener. There just has to be a flat surface on the outside of dampener and also a flat surface inside the front dished part of the dampener. It's the official way to bar a CAT engine over but works for others.
Barring tool..png
 
Separated the motor and trans, attempted to put it on my stand. Started bending the plate on the back of the stand, so I'm going to buy a new 1 ton stand this week. I'm going to Texas tomorrow to look at an NV4500 that has a damaged idler gear for 500, so hopefully I bring that home.


The million dollar question. What mounts are you swap guys running and are you able to use a mechanical fan? I've been searching all kinds of forums, but the Photobucket curse keeps getting me. I'm going to use the GM radiator as the dodge has a cracked tank. I'm reading mixed reviews on running a mechanical fan without getting into the firewall to push the engine far enough back. I'm also seeing a first gen fan hub is shorter and may allow clearance. Can anyone verify?

AC compressor clearance. The stock compressor works, and I'm having a hard time swallowing a 600 dollar high mount bracket and a new compressor over just notching the frame. What have you guys done, and why? I've considered cutting the frame, bending it up, and welding a piece in at each cut to close the gap. I had seen one where a guy had just heated and bent the frame away from the compressor as well, but I'm not too sure about heating and bending that much of the frame.
 
Scott's mounts from Tennessee diesel work with the gm radiator and second gen fan if I'm not mistaken. Call to confirm.
I'm going for common parts in my swap. I'm notching the frame.
 
Watch the episode of Finnegan's Garage on You tube where he just did a cummins swap into a square. He had to cut the bejesus out of the floor and firewall to get it back far enough to run the dodge radiator/intercooler/and mechanical fan setup. I've also heard first gen fan clutch is shorter. I think that's what is on my ford with a cummins/mechanical fan setup. I'll ask my brother-in-law and see. I know he replaced it last year before I bought it. I would just stick with a big block or 6.2 diesel radiator.
 
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