Talked to my brother in law. First gen and second gen fan drives and clutches are the same.
CK5
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Military Crew Cab Build-Cummins swap.
- Thread starter Cruz89K5
- Start date
It's the fan clutch hub that is shorter.
Same part according to Rock Auto for a 1990 and also a 2000.
Is he crewcab59 or something similar on here? I was reading some of his posts the other day. I'll have to give him a ring this week. I've been back and forth between his and the screamin seaman mounts but haven't had the time to call.
Picked up a 4500 tonight in Texas for 500 bucks. Missing a few teeth on the idler gear as seen from the pto cover. Supposedly had been gone through not too long before the hired help dumped the clutch with a load of something similar. I'll pop the top cover off tomorrow and assess the damage further. Here's a picture of it in the bed after 5 hours on the road.
Yeah that's him. He lays pretty low online but still doing the same thing converting trucks. He also has a great way to run hydraulics for the clutch.
Good to know. I'm off work tomorrow, I'm planning to call and talk with him and maybe get some mounts ordered.
Got to looking at the 4500 today. Looks like its missing teeth on the first gear on the countershaft which damaged the corresponding gear on the mainshaft. Everything else looks to be in good shape. My buddy has a trans guy that does the rebuilds for his business that says they'll fix it, so I plan to get it to them soon. I bought a new engine stand today, and I'm planning to get the engine on it tomorrow. If I can find the time I'd like to get the drivetrain out of the crew cab in the next week.
Got to looking at the 4500 today. Looks like its missing teeth on the first gear on the countershaft which damaged the corresponding gear on the mainshaft. Everything else looks to be in good shape. My buddy has a trans guy that does the rebuilds for his business that says they'll fix it, so I plan to get it to them soon. I bought a new engine stand today, and I'm planning to get the engine on it tomorrow. If I can find the time I'd like to get the drivetrain out of the crew cab in the next week.
You can run duramax or 6.2 LS electric fans an be fine.
On the AC bracket you can get the Ford F650 bracket new for less than $600 and it can be found in wrecking yards for about $300.
The head is off. Much easier out of the truck. The machine shop said they could get to it whenever and turn it around in 2 days, so hopefully that will be done next week. I tried calling about the mounts on Friday and never got an answer, so I sent an email.
There is a faint cross hatch left in most of the cylinders, but the bore is mostly smooth. There is no scoring or damage. I can't say for sure, but it almost looks like dust in the bores. The filter setup was less than adequate. I'm going to ask my dad about oil consumption next time I talk to him.
From my limited research today, it seems the general consensus is there is a hone pattern these engines need and it needs to be done with a torque plate. I had planned on talking to the machine shop when I take the head to discuss options and pricing.
There is a faint cross hatch left in most of the cylinders, but the bore is mostly smooth. There is no scoring or damage. I can't say for sure, but it almost looks like dust in the bores. The filter setup was less than adequate. I'm going to ask my dad about oil consumption next time I talk to him.
From my limited research today, it seems the general consensus is there is a hone pattern these engines need and it needs to be done with a torque plate. I had planned on talking to the machine shop when I take the head to discuss options and pricing.
Tn diesel conversion mounts are ordered. They said in the email that the GM 4 row radiator is too big physically and on capacity and that I would have to run a 2 row. The rad in my truck is much smaller than the dodge unit. I guess well see when it gets here. I have a 2 row gm radiator or two around here if thats what it takes and will cool properly.
The small block radiator cools well. My 94 12 valve during summer time you could watch the temp gauge and see the thermostat open and close. It's a cool running engine.
The small radiator and the upper mounts that bolt to the inside of the core support as opposed to the top are ideal for fitment and swapping. For what reason I forget but Scott told me that it's the preferred radiator if staying gm.
The small radiator and the upper mounts that bolt to the inside of the core support as opposed to the top are ideal for fitment and swapping. For what reason I forget but Scott told me that it's the preferred radiator if staying gm.
I'm just curious as to how it will perform while towing. This truck won't replace my 07 but I plan to use it in the same manner. If it's an issue I suppose I can figure out something different. The dodge radiator is much larger than my diesel radiator, I haven't looked at a small gm radiator in a while to see the size difference.
I dropped the trans off this evening, I hope to have it back within the next week or two. The machine shop is getting the head on Wednesday. I'm going to discuss some machine work on the block. Seriously considering deglazing the cylinders myself and running new rings though. The price quote will make up my mind. I pulled a rod cap to have a look at a bearing and was pleasantly surprised. Definitely doesn't look like 350k. I plan to pull a main cap and look at a bearing this week.
I dropped the trans off this evening, I hope to have it back within the next week or two. The machine shop is getting the head on Wednesday. I'm going to discuss some machine work on the block. Seriously considering deglazing the cylinders myself and running new rings though. The price quote will make up my mind. I pulled a rod cap to have a look at a bearing and was pleasantly surprised. Definitely doesn't look like 350k. I plan to pull a main cap and look at a bearing this week.
I did one a few years ago for a guy that had a cracked "53" block. We took a "new" junkyard engine and just ran a dingle ball hone through it and reringed it and all new bearings and gaskets.
I've been having trouble locating someone that's actually done it outside of a few pictures. I'm assuming it turned out well?
Yeah I was working at a truck shop at the time and did it for a paying customer that wanted to go cheaper than a full on $10,000 rebuild. I got good results honing and just did new rings and a complete reseal and new bearings. I see no reason for you to mess with machine work if the engine ran good and just has some less than perfect cross hatch in the cylinders. As far as I know the one I did is still out there pulling a heavy ass enclosed trailer every day.
I'm not even reringing my 325k motor. Damn thing specs great. I'll rebuild it at 500 of it needs it or not.
The trans is done. Took a few more parts than expected, but it should be good as new. I'll have it back home by the end of the week.
I'm going to borrow some tooling to measure the bores and go from there. The amount of vapor blow by was concerning. Enough that it was blowing a slight haze out of the dipstick tube when it warmed up. It did not have enough pressure to make the cap dance. I talked to the machine shop today when I took the head. Their prices are great. Cleaned and magnafluxed, bored, check line bore, surface and cam bearing install for under $500. Then I realized the cost of pistons is over double the machine work and that soured the deal. At this point I'm about halfway through my budget and I still need to mate the transfer case up and buy a clutch, which is the last big ticket items.
I'm going to borrow some tooling to measure the bores and go from there. The amount of vapor blow by was concerning. Enough that it was blowing a slight haze out of the dipstick tube when it warmed up. It did not have enough pressure to make the cap dance. I talked to the machine shop today when I took the head. Their prices are great. Cleaned and magnafluxed, bored, check line bore, surface and cam bearing install for under $500. Then I realized the cost of pistons is over double the machine work and that soured the deal. At this point I'm about halfway through my budget and I still need to mate the transfer case up and buy a clutch, which is the last big ticket items.
Machine shop called at 3:30 today, head is done. I'm not sure how to act after getting two big ticket items turned around in a day each. Guess I have to get to work on getting the crew cab apart this week. Went and rented a fan clutch tool, so I should be able to get the front cover off tonight and see if the KDP has been tabbed.
Made a deposit Saturday. Going to call and order the rest of the big stuff Monday. Been cleaning and painting mostly.
Had this idea in my head and had the ol lady make something on her vinyl cutter. I'm happy with it.
Had this idea in my head and had the ol lady make something on her vinyl cutter. I'm happy with it.
Rock auto has 12 valve Mahle head gaskets on closeout for 25 dollars. I bought one and all of my gaskets, except the front cover which I forgot and the oil cooler that I couldnt find. I still need to pick up a water pump and thermostat and head bolts.
Today I ordered a southbend single disc clutch, 3k gov springs, and the 29 spline to np205 adapter from ORD. I also had a guy at work make a 3d drawing of the emblem I have vinyl cut and I'm going to see about having one 3D printed.
What are you swapped guys doing for clutch hydraulics? I saw that TN Diesel had an option, but it's spendy. I've seen something about using a ford master and a dodge slave, or even a GM master and dodge slave. Is there any combo of parts I could put together or am I better off buying the one from TN Diesel?
Today I ordered a southbend single disc clutch, 3k gov springs, and the 29 spline to np205 adapter from ORD. I also had a guy at work make a 3d drawing of the emblem I have vinyl cut and I'm going to see about having one 3D printed.
What are you swapped guys doing for clutch hydraulics? I saw that TN Diesel had an option, but it's spendy. I've seen something about using a ford master and a dodge slave, or even a GM master and dodge slave. Is there any combo of parts I could put together or am I better off buying the one from TN Diesel?
