minor issues,have q's

[jones]

Starter Q. I just replaced it a few weeks ago,and since it was first installed,it's had a high pitched, whiney sort of sound to it and it's already starting to...grind, I guess you'd say. Like if you were to turn the key with the truck already started. I didn't use any shims because none were on the other one. However, I just installed the balance plate,so maybe it needs to be shimmed now? Or do I have a bum starter?

Brake Q: after sitting for nearly a year, I've developed a hard right pull from even the slightest of braking pressure. The brake light doesn't shut off. Last year I replaced the hard line on the pass.side rear. Brakes were bled. I noticed that one of my caliper bolts is backed out on the drivers side and may possibly be stripped as I can't get it to tighten down. I told someone else about that and they said to just tack weld the bolt to the backing plate because the serve no function Any ideas?

choke light: it won't shut off either. E-brock 500 elec.choke.I've Zep 45ed the linkages. electrical terminals on the choke are tight.

Note: no changes have been made to the brakes.everything was replaced when I swapped the 3/4t, gear 3 yrs. ago. The carb is the same one I've had on the truck since I bought it. There were no previous choke or brake light issues.

Thanks in advance for the input.

 

[mofugly13]

As for your starter issues, sounds like you need to shim it, You want 1/8" clearance betwrrn the starter gear nose and the flywheel, an 1/8" drill bit works great as a guage.

As for the brakes, I'd get new calipers left and right. Don't listen to whoever told you to weld it. That might be a good trail fix to get you home, but definitely a Mickey Mouse repair. Go with new calipers, and rebleed the brakes, and see if your light stays on.

Choke light? I donno about that one.

 

[jones]

Thanks for the info. it's definately a mickey mouse repair. I just rolled my eyes and laughed.this person is a mechanic,too.

What about the choke light? Anyone,Anyone?

 

[dremu]

Brake light is driven, in this instance, by the prop valve. Press the rubber cover over the nubbin to re-center and reset it. Among other things the combo valve detects a big pressure difference front-to-rear and lights the light if Something Bad Happened.

The caliper bolts serve a specific function, obviously, of keeping the caliper sliding only in one dimension, i.e. laterally across the rotor. If you *could*weld it to the backing plate so as to keep it perfectly perpendicular to the rotor, that would be fine until you had to replace the caliper. However, since any heat would likely warp the setup, such a weld would prevent the caliper from sliding, making it pretty dang useless.

Yep, shim the starter.

And yep, replace the calipers and re-bleed, at which point you should reset the combo valve anyway.

-- A