MK-24, "Tank" (Update: Gen V Build!) [Deleted]

[robster495]

Well I was assuming that having a 3 output prop valve would be better than a 2 opening, which would get rid of my combo valve for the fronts. Should I just stay with a 2 opening??

I found the threading into my current MC and the c3500hd one are the same. However, I think the ports are switched, I thiiiiink (confirmation would be amazing).

 

[robster495]

These are the MCs. Taller reservoir is c3500hd, other one is my current. I know for fact that on my current one the front most port is for the rear brakes. What I don't know is the order of the ports on the c3500hd MC.

I also know that based on these pictures, the matching color coded port plugs match in threads.

 

[nutt7]

According to Oreilly:

c3500hd:

• Primary Port Thread Size: 9/16-18 Inch
• Secondary Port Thread Size: 1/2-20 Inch

Yours:

• Primary Port Thread Size: 1/2-20 Inch
• Secondary Port Thread Size: 9/16-18 Inch

Seems that they are reversed. If I'm not mistaken, primary is your front brakes, secondary is back. In terms of the prop valve, whatever suits your vision. My hope was to keep mine as compatible with the stock brakes as possible. I didn't want custom lines or adjustable valves. I had to settle on adapters for the outputs though.

 

[robster495]

The reversal makes me think that both the larger ports are for the rear brakes, generally from what I've seen the larger line goes to the rear. If anyone has a c3500hd that can chime in, I'd be grateful!

I do have some free time this Sunday, so I might bounce around a few yards to try and visually inspect things myself, I'll keep you all posted!

 

[78K30]

The reversal makes me think that both the larger ports are for the rear brakes, generally from what I've seen the larger line goes to the rear. If anyone has a c3500hd that can chime in, I'd be grateful!

I do have some free time this Sunday, so I might bounce around a few yards to try and visually inspect things myself, I'll keep you all posted!

Good thing I read through here, I'm going to be driving our C3500HD a bit tomorrow and can easily look at the brake setup on it for you.

 

[robster495]

Good thing I read through here, I'm going to be driving our C3500HD a bit tomorrow and can easily look at the brake setup on it for you.

Awesome!! Let me know what you find!
Huge help man

 

[78K30]

I present to you one 1998 C3500HD disk/disk

And the Master cylinder. Larger line is the rear brakes

Both front and rear lines run into the ABS unit, then a single large line to the rear and individual lines from the ABS unit to each front tire.

 

[robster495]

@78K30 huuuge help!! That confirms my suspicions about not needing any adapters, just a little line bending to use that Master Cylinder.

I remember @nutt7 saying that I should stay with a MC that was originally vacuum. That one is hydroboost but controls discs like I need.

Any recommendations on using it or not?? The pic is a 98, would the 94ish have had vacuum?

EDIT: ^^^ 94 was also hydro

 

[78K30]

You're welcome glad I could be of help!

 

[nutt7]

@78K30 huuuge help!! That confirms my suspicions about not needing any adapters, just a little line bending to use that Master Cylinder.

I remember @nutt7 saying that I should stay with a MC that was originally vacuum. That one is hydroboost but controls discs like I need.

Any recommendations on using it or not?? The pic is a 98, would the 94ish have had vacuum?

EDIT: ^^^ 94 was also hydro

I think the hydroboost uses a shorter stroke. Your longer stroke vacuum booster should work fine, unless you smash it to the floor when bleeding...in that case you may cause some stress inside by bottoming out something.

 

[robster495]

Okay got it. So if I use that MC my pedal travel will have to be a lot shorter than what I'm used to with a vacuum MC.

As long as I bleed correctly and don't overdo it, would that MC with the correct prop valve work my aam rear? If I can get the MC finalized I can start making purchases!

 

[nutt7]

Okay got it. So if I use that MC my pedal travel will have to be a lot shorter than what I'm used to with a vacuum MC.

As long as I bleed correctly and don't overdo it, would that MC with the correct prop valve work my aam rear? If I can get the MC finalized I can start making purchases!

Personally, I would do it. That's your call though. I have the AAM rear, well 10.5 but I think the brakes are the same, and that PV4 and I'm happy with it.

 

[robster495]

Personally, I would do it. That's your call though. I have the AAM rear, well 10.5 but I think the brakes are the same, and that PV4 and I'm happy with it.

Alright I'm probably going to order the MC and Prop when the next paycheck comes in! I need the Burb as it is now for a small trip this weekend, but shortly after that I'll tear him down. Luckily it's summer and I've got my '00 Z28 as a backup for when Tank goes down for a bit. Woohoo T-Tops!

Thanks everyone for the info and advice! As soon as parts are in I'll get the build goin. But in the meantime, I've never done MC work, any reputable how-to's on MC bleeding? Anything involving brake fluid scares me, but I think I'm up for it!

 

[JoshHefnerX]

most of the ones I've bought had plastic dudes that thread into the ports. and have a hose nipple on the other side. run that hose back up into the mc. Then mount that in a vice and use a screwdriver to push fluid through until bubbles stop.

 

[Truckman4life]

I can't remember but I think I tried a similar MC on my hydroboost setup and the pilot was too big to fit mine. I might be confused but make sure you check fitment before filling and bleeding so you can return if possible.

 

[robster495]

Hey guys so update: I have an AAM 10.5 lined up, and if I commit the seller will relocate and weld the perches to match my leaf springs. My question if I go with this set up is this...

Can I do the following set up:
Keep my Master Clyinder (disc/drum) - remove my prop valve completely - run front discs straight from MC with the tee - run rear discs straight from MC with an adjustable valve with a tee??

The reasoning behind why I thiiiink this works is, from my research considering a simple disc swap on my current 14bsf, a lot of people do that exact set up.
I feel like if I got a good enough quality rear line adjustable valve, my MC should make the rear calipers work the way they need to.

Am I right enough on this? That 10.5 is a good deal, and allows me to sell off my 11.5 for either the same price or more. I just think the 11.5 is too much for what my suburban is used for.

 

[robster495]

UPDATE: Okay so I decided on a path and went with the disc conversion for my semi-float from Lugnut 4x4.
I'm quite excited to button the front up when my remaining EBC pads come in.

One thing I'm looking forward to is that rotors/pads/calipers are exactly what I have up front, so sourcing will be as easy as ever.
I've spoken to the owner of Lugnut 4x4 about what I might have to do Master Cylinder/ Prop Valve wise and he said it's designed to work with what I already have.

I have purchased a wilwood adjustable valve that I'm holding onto incase I need it. If I need it for the swap I just did I'll put it in and completely remove my prop valve and plumb the lines directly. If I end up not needing it I'll save it for a rig I'm planning to use my 11.5AAM in.

Thats the Burb's update, now I have some advice to ask!

If anyone has some light to shed on a potential project, I'm linking the CL ad for a blazer I might purchase. Short and sweet is that it has '08 F250 axles and is set up to receive coils up front and an LS drivetrain. I have a few lines on 5.3s so this set up is getting verrrry tempting lol. Here's the link.

https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/chl/cto/d/1989-chevrolet-k5-blazer/6245501273.html

Owner has sent me a ton of more pictures and here's the add'l info. Brakes are hydroboost. Steering is crossover for the ford axles (set up), has 3-link control arms for the front and leafs in the back. Body is ridiculously rust free.

Tell me what you think!!

 

[Truckman4life]

The blazer looks like a good amount of work. I'd say the "two small rust holes" look more like a rotted out rocker that only has two holes poked in it but still should be ok. As long as all the fab work for the axle swap is done right and not way ghetto fabulous it sounds like a good deal. Try to get him lower like 1200.

 

[robster495]

The blazer looks like a good amount of work. I'd say the "two small rust holes" look more like a rotted out rocker that only has two holes poked in it but still should be ok. As long as all the fab work for the axle swap is done right and not way ghetto fabulous it sounds like a good deal. Try to get him lower like 1200.

Yea I'm thinking of offering 1200 as well, its a long travel for me and he'd probably be up for that. The fab work shouldn't be more than a day+case of beer with my buddy who's really good at fab work. The biggest purchases will be the motor/trans (I have a tcase ready for that drop setup), the coil-overs/air shocks to level it out, and whatever wheels/tires I can scrounge together on ford 8lug.

 

[Truckman4life]

Sweet! Did he do coil buckets to run coil springs like the Ford did or just hoops for coilovers? I wouldn't mind swapping one of those axles and a tcase in my k5 but I don't need coilovers. They turn alot sharper and cheaper and easier to find that a pass drop d60.