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MNorby's Goat - Ibex build

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When I saw the nylon line kits I thought about trying it out but I was too scared. Now seeing the reviews and hearing you guys talk about it makes me want to try it out. I'm really shocked that it works like it does! It just shows how my mind gets set on what will and won't work.
 
handloader90 said:
Can you remember if you had to tap the hole for the speedway kit. I was planning on using that same kit for plumbing all of my brakes when my tons go under and I know a lot of those reman calipers are metric thread. Were yours standard? How are the nylon line and those fittings holding up? Do the brakes feel mushy after awhile?
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Blazooki said:
I have the speedway kit and I also found some heavier duty black line that has a higher working PSI that I'm using. I have a mix of both lines (forgot to factor in the steering brake when I ordered the black line)...my pedal has been great so far and held up in Moab. no line failures and enough pressure to blow out a wheel cylinder on one of my rear discs. Iv'e got an electric line lock and it holding fine so far also. Getting adapters to fit the master cylinder was an issue. My rear calipers were metric. I farted around with trying to get metric fittings that fit without luck. I finally said screw it and just threaded the standard ones in there. They've been fine. I also ended up modifying some stainless banjo fittings on my front discs to get the hose fittings to work. Its working as intended but my big concern is line toughness. there's lots of sticks/trees/brush up here where I wheel and I just know those lines are gonna get torn off at some point. After talking to Chris from ORD and looking at his line setup I've decided I'm gonna order a set of custom lines from them and replace the speedway stuff. I'll feel alot better about running thru the brush then.
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F.S.F.W said:
When I saw the nylon line kits I thought about trying it out but I was too scared. Now seeing the reviews and hearing you guys talk about it makes me want to try it out. I'm really shocked that it works like it does! It just shows how my mind gets set on what will and won't work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had to tap out the calipers to 1/8 NPT but is easy to do. Use a little grease to keep the chips out of the calipers. Have only had 2 failures, one from a huge rock smacking it which I believe would have clobbered a braided line too. The other I had a line crack right at the fitting on the front caliper during some snow wheeling. It had accumulated a ton of snow there and froze and cracked the line. Took about 3 minutes to cut and re-attach the line and off we were going again. I may use braided line on the axle ends sometime because of that freezing break. I too ordered some extra line since the kit didn't have enough for my individual runs for the rear cutting brakes and the other stuff I got was a thicker wall tubing. I also started using inserts in the line and the ones I have only fit the thinner/larger ID line. From my understanding this line is essentially what is inside a braided line and the braided mostly protects from external damage.
 
Never knew Nylon brake line existed....I guess I do learn something new everyday. How close to the exhaust do you think you could get?
 
MNorby said:
Yeah, I had to tap out the calipers to 1/8 NPT but is easy to do. Use a little grease to keep the chips out of the calipers. Have only had 2 failures, one from a huge rock smacking it which I believe would have clobbered a braided line too. The other I had a line crack right at the fitting on the front caliper during some snow wheeling. It had accumulated a ton of snow there and froze and cracked the line. Took about 3 minutes to cut and re-attach the line and off we were going again. I may use braided line on the axle ends sometime because of that freezing break. I too ordered some extra line since the kit didn't have enough for my individual runs for the rear cutting brakes and the other stuff I got was a thicker wall tubing. I also started using inserts in the line and the ones I have only fit the thinner/larger ID line. From my understanding this line is essentially what is inside a braided line and the braided mostly protects from external damage.
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Sweet deal! Thanks.

Did you do the same the master cylinder? Did you run the nylon directly to the master cylinder?

Is there any way you could take a pic if you did? It would help me visually and I'm sure others would like to see what it looks like.
 
My masters are aftermarket and come with 1/8 NPT fittings already.

Can kinda see them here:
20140308_071931.jpg
 
Mine is run directly to the factory master. Cept I have a short rubber hose on the front hole to match the master cylinder threads. I don't have a good pic atm. But I'll take one and throw it on my build thread. As far as exhaust..my exhaust is completely wrapped to the muffler. So it doesn't matter for me, but I wouldn't run it close to anything hot
 
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MNorby said:
Yeah, I had to tap out the calipers to 1/8 NPT but is easy to do. Use a little grease to keep the chips out of the calipers. Have only had 2 failures, one from a huge rock smacking it which I believe would have clobbered a braided line too. The other I had a line crack right at the fitting on the front caliper during some snow wheeling. It had accumulated a ton of snow there and froze and cracked the line. Took about 3 minutes to cut and re-attach the line and off we were going again. I may use braided line on the axle ends sometime because of that freezing break. I too ordered some extra line since the kit didn't have enough for my individual runs for the rear cutting brakes and the other stuff I got was a thicker wall tubing. I also started using inserts in the line and the ones I have only fit the thinner/larger ID line. From my understanding this line is essentially what is inside a braided line and the braided mostly protects from external damage.
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Would it be possible to slide a piece of rubber hose (vacuum line or something) over the troubled areas? I'm sure they would still get smashed but maybe it would help with freezing?
 
Monday I cut the back end of the rig off and spent a little eac day this week to clean and sand the existing tubes clean and ready to start reassembling.




Today's start. Wanted the bumper sides to be at same angle as C pillar and the C pillar to be 48" wide at door tube to not pinch in from the top of roof that is 48" wide.
Original setup with rear frame straight back from cab area at 32"'on center but decided that was too wide so made new frame rails and rear bumper and brought it in to 26" on center. Also internally sleeved bumper with some 1.5" after bending the bumper last summer. Bumper is 1" back farther and 1.5"' lower than old setup.

Next mock up fuel tank to figure out the tailgate then mockup seat to figure out rear roof cross




 
I didn't like how boxy the rear roof was when making the C pillar follow the same angle as the bumper tube so redid that this morning. Will make the rear roof crossmember kick back for extra rear seat protection.

20161212_065412.jpg
 
I didn't see that one coming! Is the main reason to add rear seats? :waytogo:
 
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