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mobile 1, vs amsoil, vs other kind vs napa

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I imagine you're reffering to stock and DD trucks, but thicker oil offers better protection is higher rpm engines where more heat is generated.

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Maybe sustained high RPM operation. If it's synthetic there's especially no reason to run a heavier oil. 5W-30 still would have the heat protection that no conventiona could match, with the cold flow of 5W-30.
 
Gotta remember it's a BB.He's not going to be cruiseing at 6000rpm.
I ran regular 10W30 when I broke in my eng.

I'm at about 10,000 miles on it now.I'm still useing 10W30.I use Valvoline oil with A/C filters.
 
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The majority of wear occurs at startup.

You're doing absolutely nothing good by running the heavy oil except working your oil pump extra hard, costing you more fuel mileage, and wearing the parts faster every time you start the engine.

I don't know about your engine but mine has 50 PSI of oil pressure at hot idle with 5W-30. I can't imagine why you'd need anything heavier than that unless your bearing were worn and your oil clearances made it necessary to have oil that heavy.

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What I stated when Branndon asked the weight question...
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Almost everyone has a different opinion on what to run

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Don't come along, quote me, and try to tell me I don't know what I'm talking about. It is your opinion that thin oil is the best. Anyone that has been around here a while has seen that arguing over oil never gets anywhere because everyone has their own opnion on whats best. State your opinion and move on because like the saying goes opinions are like...... /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
 
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don't know about your engine but mine has 50 PSI of oil pressure at hot idle with 5W-30. I can't imagine why you'd need anything heavier than that

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I call BS (isn't that your line? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif) 50 psi with water thin oil at idle hot, no way on a stock pump and bottom end, you either need glasses or a new guage. My high volume pump doesn't even put out 50 psi at idle HOT with 20/50 and my clearances were perfect when assembled. Neither does my two 454's, two 350's, and a crysler Hemi, that we have here at the ranch.
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Yeah, lets all spend 4 grand on a motor that burns oil.



[/ QUOTE ] Who spent 4K on a motor that burns oil? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
5w30 winter
10w40 summer
I use walmart Super tech exclusivly /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif (penzoil)

Fram has a poor anti-back flow valve, and fewer pleats than the super tech oil filter.
 
Since you call BS, I'm going to snap a pic for you.

Remember this is a mechanical gauge, 2 1/2" or bigger in diameter, and 270* sweep.
 
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ok, napa brand it is then, now... what weight. its a completely rebuilt motor, so i dont know what weight to start on and when to switch if i do at all?

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Almost everyone has a different opinion on what to run but if it was me I would start off with a 10/40. I prefer thick oils and I run 20/50 in my motor. It gets really hot around here and not very cold so I figure the extra thickness can't hurt not mention it's harder to burn off and IIRC most racing teams run heavier oils( I may be wrong on that).

After about 10K miles I would switch over to 20/50 from 10/40.

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The majority of wear occurs at startup.

You're doing absolutely nothing good by running the heavy oil except working your oil pump extra hard, costing you more fuel mileage, and wearing the parts faster every time you start the engine.

(I don't know about your engine but mine has 50 PSI of oil pressure at hot idle with 5W-30. I can't imagine why you'd need anything heavier than that unless your bearing were worn and your oil clearances made it necessary to have oil that heavy.

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I use 20w50 oil in all of my vehicles that have a lot of miles(over 100,000)and have slightly "loose" engines that have the room between bearings and rings and pistons and need the heavier oil.I agree a motor that doesnt burn oil or have loose clearances live longer with a thinner oil,it flows faster and gets pumped up to the rockers and lifters quicker--I can hear the difference in how long it takes for 20w50 to get to the lifters VS 10w30.I like to use heavier oil if I'm going to be towing or long distance highway trips in hot weather.I can only run 20w50 until october or so,after that its too cold--a few years I left the 20w50 in all winter,but the engine sounds horrible the first 20 seconds or so upon its first start of the day.I feel the thicker oil helps seal and cushion the worn parts and increases the oil pressure,but only to a degree--too thick and too much STP or LUCAS or other goop can cause more wear than it prevents because it takes too long for it to flow when cold--its more like grease!
The 305 I just put in my truck has a brand new(stock)melling pump,it buries the gauge at 60 psi when driving over 20 mph,hot or cold,when fully warmed up in "drive"at idle it will drop a little below 30 psi--(with 10w30 oil)so far thats the best oil pressure out of all 3 of mine on the road,the 400 in my other truck drops to 10psi at idle in drive(a little worrisome,but I hear no bearings or lifters tapping)so I run 20w50 in that motor most of the warmer weather--its has the original oil pump and screen,and its probably half clogged with timing gear teeth /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
I use wix or AC filters--I told everyone before I had a wix factory rep come in the parts store I worked at and cut some other brands of filters open--I will put a fram on as a last resort--more than once I drained and refilled the old wix filter rather than waste 4 bucks for a fram filter,and changed it the next day when the "real"parts stores opened.
Anyone here tried that new "High Mileage Oil"they are pushing for us folks with older rigs?? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif I have been tempted to try it and see if it cuts down on the "puff" I get upon a cold start in all my chevy motors(valve stem seals or guides probably)--but having been low on cash I opted for the "valuecraft"79 cent stuff at autozone rather than spending 2 bucks a quart for the high mileage stuff.
I'm skeptical that its any different than regular oil,or any better than normal oil with some STP or Lucas mixed with it. /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
 
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Anyone here tried that new "High Mileage Oil"they are pushing for us folks with older rigs??

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I ran Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 for a while in my old Plymouth Laser (1.8L with 120K miles and a leaky valve cover and head gasket). The oil leaks seemed to slow down some, but not enough to justify the extra $$ in my opinion. The motor still rattled for the first 10-15 seconds on 1st start of the day with the MaxLife, but it did that with every other brand and weight of oil I tried, too.
 
I run 10w40 in the summer because when the oil thins down when its hot I feel it works better. In the winter I run 10w30 because the engine is not going to get as hot even running on the highway (its not sucking in hot air and my engine bay is not sealed up so heat disapates fairly quick in cold weather). Other than that I only use Fram filters and Valvoline Max Life oil (odometer rides 180K but the GM replaced motor has roughly 105K on it), occationally I add maybe a 1/2quart between changes at 3500 miles. At startup the truck pulls 50PSI cold and after it warms up with runs 30PSI, if I come off the highway at high RPMs to a sitting stop it sometimes drops to 15-20 PSI.
 
Might as well throw my specs out there too.

In my 406 that has about 15K I run 20/50 because out here it gets 100* easy during the summer and my motor will run 210-220 in that kind of weather. ALso since I don't put a lot of miles on it when I do drive it I usually push it pretty hard and 1/4 of the time I am pulling a trailer. I am a fan of heavy oil in very hot weather and hard running conditions. THis coming winter will only be my second winter with this motor, I will probably switch to 10/40, last winter it was still breaking in with 10/40.

with 20/50 my oil pressure pegs the guage at idle when cold.
When up around 200-210* it will be at about 30psi in gear idling and 60 psi right off idle. Melling high volume pump.
 
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Where can I get a copy of one of your books ?

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Just ask for "I Think I Know Everything" by Mr. Knowitall at Barnes & Noble. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
I use this stuff. It is great!

Royal Purple!

Synthetic oils are far superior to crude based oils. Besides being able to take the heat and cold better, it also does not cause sludge production throughout your engine.

/forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
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ok, napa brand it is then, now... what weight. its a completely rebuilt motor, so i dont know what weight to start on and when to switch if i do at all?

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Almost everyone has a different opinion on what to run but if it was me I would start off with a 10/40. I prefer thick oils and I run 20/50 in my motor. It gets really hot around here and not very cold so I figure the extra thickness can't hurt not mention it's harder to burn off and IIRC most racing teams run heavier oils( I may be wrong on that).

After about 10K miles I would switch over to 20/50 from 10/40.

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The majority of wear occurs at startup.

You're doing absolutely nothing good by running the heavy oil except working your oil pump extra hard, costing you more fuel mileage, and wearing the parts faster every time you start the engine.

I don't know about your engine but mine has 50 PSI of oil pressure at hot idle with 5W-30. I can't imagine why you'd need anything heavier than that unless your bearing were worn and your oil clearances made it necessary to have oil that heavy.

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Thicker grade oils increases your oil temperature, component wear at startup, reduces fuel mileage, places more stress on your distributor shaft, gear and oil pump to name a few. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

Also: Why do some of you tend to “get off” by giving Tim a bad time?? He is actually a knowledgeable guy and is always willing to help out. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I run Castrol HD30. With 187,000 on the clock it still pegs the gauge when cold. Warm it has around 20 psi @ idle and around 50 psi off idle.
 
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ok, napa brand it is then, now... what weight. its a completely rebuilt motor, so i dont know what weight to start on and when to switch if i do at all?

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Almost everyone has a different opinion on what to run but if it was me I would start off with a 10/40. I prefer thick oils and I run 20/50 in my motor. It gets really hot around here and not very cold so I figure the extra thickness can't hurt not mention it's harder to burn off and IIRC most racing teams run heavier oils( I may be wrong on that).

After about 10K miles I would switch over to 20/50 from 10/40.

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The majority of wear occurs at startup.

You're doing absolutely nothing good by running the heavy oil except working your oil pump extra hard, costing you more fuel mileage, and wearing the parts faster every time you start the engine.

I don't know about your engine but mine has 50 PSI of oil pressure at hot idle with 5W-30. I can't imagine why you'd need anything heavier than that unless your bearing were worn and your oil clearances made it necessary to have oil that heavy.

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Thicker grade oils increases your oil temperature, component wear at startup, reduces fuel mileage, places more stress on your distributor shaft, gear and oil pump to name a few. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

Also: Why do some of you tend to “get off” by giving Tim a bad time?? He is actually a knowledgeable guy and is always willing to help out. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

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Because I have no social skills. I just let it roll right off anyway. I build trucks the way I want, and if y'all don't like it, you're wrong, and that's fine with me. Yeah, I get to yapping too much sometimes, but it's just because I have an intense passion for building trucks, and for the sport in general. I wish I could do this all day, every day.

That's why I started my own business selling parts. It's more of a personal satisfaction thing when I see people after I help them out with their rigs, be it with information or by hooking them up with awesome discounts on parts. I love the sport and I think I have a lot to offer. If people don't like it, are jealous, or think my advice is nonsense, instead of questioning my character, they should attack my arguement.

It's easy to argue when you personally attack individuals, but it actually takes brains to have a heated arguement with valid points.
 
Tim,

I can appreciate honesty and passion for a sport. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

As far as "social skills" are concerned, you are far from the only one here that lacks in this area. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

I do believe however, that some of these guys are actually improving. That is great to see! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
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Since you call BS, I'm going to snap a pic for you.



[/ QUOTE ]I'm still waiting for a pic of this "mythical" 50 psi HOT at idle with 5w30 and stock pump.
 
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Since you call BS, I'm going to snap a pic for you.



[/ QUOTE ]I'm still waiting for a pic of this "mythical" 50 psi HOT at idle with 5w30 and stock pump.

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Who said anything about a stock pump? /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
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Your brand new 406, "uses" oil?

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I don't have a Chevy (GM) that doesn't eat a quart between oil changes. My '01 T/A w/ the LS1 and 30k miles eats about a quart-and-a-half (I run 5w-30 Syntec in that). My '97 Chevy C1500 w/ the Vortec 350 and 130k miles uses a quart + between changes and always has (I run 10w-30 or 40 in that). The one vehicle that comsumes the least is the Jimmy (90k miles), but I don't drive it that often either.
 
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