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Modification you would "NEVER" do again...

Metal Twister

Metal Twister

1/2 ton status
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Jan 8, 2010
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SoCal Diego
Thinking this might save someone here some Time, Money, and or Effort.

What mod's have been done that were at best disappointing. It can be that the mod was over priced, too time intensive, or just plane ineffective! The kinda of Mod that given a second chance to do or not to do would result in a definite "NO WAY"
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Any advise... And why don't you like the mod?
 
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I would say the disc brake swap. Looking back I would not do it again. Just going from 1/2 ton drums to the larger 3/4 ton drums are a big improvement in braking IMHO. Instead I bought into the whole gotta have disc brakes thing. Looking back I spent money to replace something I already had that works and works well. Now I have a basically 40 year old caliper design with a single piston design on a disc that is small in comparison to a modern rear disc setup. The whole battle with proportioning valves to alleviate the mushy brake pedal is not worth the weight savings or cool factor to me.
 
Rear lift blocks, body lift, cutting holes in the door panels for speakers where the map pocket was.
 
Building a truck from the frame up - to some people it's no big deal but for me - never again! - next time I'll buy a running truck and do the mods a little at a time so I always have a running truck. Mine has been way too time consuming & detailed for my schedule, because of this I haven't had a running (Chevy) 4wd in almost 5 yrs.

Hood scoop to clear and tall carb & air filter set up - aweful because it obstucted the drivers view horribly.

Cheap U-bolts - after stripping a set of 3/4" u-bolts by hand I realized they were not such a bargain after all.
 
Spending $800+/- rebuilding and adding a trutrac,and 30spline shafts to my 10bolt rear only to rip em out 2 years(3k miles) later for real axle assemblies. I did re-coupe $450, but not worth it in the long run

Rough country 6in springs, the spring pin is offset little did i know, and one of the spring eye bolts were 7/16 IIRC , and were supposed to be 9/16

Bent S drag link:(pro-comp) the stupid ends do not have enough thread to get both adjusted right, and still have enough thread in the link center itself not to feel scary
 
buying anything bolt on and not fabbing it myself. Buying a welder, a torch, and raw material has saved me soo much money. I just wish I would have bought a tube bender a long time ago.
 
Going to a hydro clutch setup on my wife's Burb. Previously, the bellcrank wasnt lined up perfect and the ball stud on the frame side would break occasionaly. But nothing compares to the issues I've had with trying to get the hydro working and the major issue when the bolts pulled through the firewall. Bending master cylinder rods, air bubbles, and mismatched master/slave cylinders. And my clutch isnt any lighter feeling than the mech setup regardless of what clutch plate I put in. The mech setup didnt look pretty, but it worked and was quite reliable.

The only other thing I wouldnt do again is the big TBI for my SBC. Mine was a package deal with the Edelbrock Performer intake and supposed to work witha SBC but the injectors were way too big. The engine couldnt go over 3k rpms without flooding the engine, even under heavy load. It was a pain to start cold since it wwas running rich 100% of the time. After 3 years, I finally swapped out a stock TBI and she's been running flawlessly ever since. I used to think she had alot of getup and go till I put the stock TBI on. ANd who knows, if I'd done some datalogging and had a new chip burned it might have worked.
 
Revolver shackles- uncontrolled suspension movement

$1200 12 bolt rear- still weak

$2000 Dana 44 front- still weak

KluneV crawl box- too expensive, requires hours of machining to make work, better options available.

Tearing apart a bad ass, well built 4x4 to make it "better" and 10 years later it is still in pieces :(
 
Anything some other guy has asked me to fab when I knew it would not work. I now tell them so and refuse to do the work.

My way or the highway?
 
building a truck from stock. i would start with somebody else's project that they already dumped $$$ into and abandoned. or a truck thats already built and just needs tto be personalized to make it mine. i know thats kinda a bought no built idea, but it would have saved me alot of money.
somthing that has built engine, bigger axles, lockers, or maybe eeven gears, maybe the transfercase or cases that i would want. you get the idea.
 
Buying a used "Rugged Trail" lift kit w/ blocks and dual shocks, then finding out the company has been out of business for 15+/- years.

Wasting money on countless 'used' craigslist motors for my trucks, that usually last about 6-9 months...
 
building my own 355 when a crate engine with a warrentee would have been the same price...
 
6" Springs I cant say I wouldnt do it again but I would rather have done it how I wanted in the First place 4" suspension 2" body with ORD shackle Flip in rear. ?But I do Love my 6" rough country springs and Rough Country made me a HECK of a deal
 
Any sort of Eastwood rust protection/chassis coat. rustolium applied with a dirty mop could have lasted longer.
 
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