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MORE cool parts showed up on my door step, pics

rdn2blazer

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A while ago I bought custom made to me design cage mounting plates and 4 tube clamps from MAD4X4.com. I had them make 20 mounting plates cut to 5 " dia. with a 4" X 5 hole bolt circle, and an undersized 2" hole in the center Like RuffStuff does their cage mounting plates. Its so you can sink the tube about 2/3 the thickness of the mounting plate and weld not just around the tube on the top side but a weld inside the tube to the plate on the bottom also, helps attain better shear strength. That way your not just relying on the weld for shear but the steel in its strongest plane. These were suposed to be for a 10 point cage.

After I recieved them from MAD4x4 I realized I did not want to have the bottom plate to have a center hole and I wanted them a different size so the floor sheet metal does not have a pinch and stress point to crack at. I should have had them make 10 different. So I contacted Kert at DIY4X4 to make the custom bottom plates.

Today I recieved my DIY shackle flip and custom made to my design bottom cage mounting plates. Kert made them for a AWESOME price, 40% cheaper then what I paid thru MAD4X4. There 6" dia with a 5 hole X 4" bolt circle. As requested Kert made the holes just under 1/2 in dia. so I can match drill the plates using the MAD plates as a drill guide. there 1 in diameter bigger then the MAD plates. here are some pics.

I chucked the MAD plates up in my lathe and machined each one of them so it fits the 2" tube with a good fit about 2/3 the thickness of the 1/4 plate thickness. Im drilling the bolt circle to .531 for bolt clearence, and will be using 1/2 grade 8 or 9 bolts. Im mounting my cage to the body mainly but it will also be tied to the frame as strategic locations.

So since I had mad do 20 plates, and I needed bottom plates of different size with no center hole, I had Kert and DIY make 20 bottom plates. So now I have enough for two 10 point cages. One for my K5 and one for my burb.

The shackle buckets from DIY are great quality, very nice pieces. Cant wait to get them debured up and powder coated and get them on. My ORD buckets are going to be used on my burb now. some pics.

Oh, and THANKS! Kert for the KICK ASS parts!

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couple more pics. I took the time to tap thru the tube clamps completely and Im using longer Zink plated cap screws.

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Those look good. For some reason I never thought of making cage base plates round. I imagine the round ones would be less apt to tear through the sheet metal. What are you using the tube clamps for?
 
Those look good. For some reason I never thought of making cage base plates round. I imagine the round ones would be less apt to tear through the sheet metal. What are you using the tube clamps for?



That exactly the reason for the round mounting plates, atleast in theory. adding another bolt adds extra strength too. The tube clamps will be used in my burb. The cage will be built in such a way (Hopefully) where it can be removed and powdercoated. I figured I will have to do it in strategiclly built sections where they all clamp together yet will still be strong structurally. will have triangulation built into it too even if its clamped triangulation.
 
why not tap the 5 holes in the bottom plate and use nut like a jamb nut=more thread engagement?

yea, that would be true, but it would have cost me more to have made and its alot of extra work and IMHO not necessary.
 
i was thinking about tapping them yourself instead of drilling them, but good grade 8 hardware will prolly be more than good,especially w/round plates.
i like the idea of putting ur tubing 1/2-2/3 way in the baseplate b4 welding...even if u didnt weld the underside, it would be stronger....thanks for the idey...i will remember it on my next rollbar/cage...
 
Tapping the bottom holes would require pretty good alignment between the upper and lower plates too.

I like the removable cage idea. To me it is a great way to save your investment in the cage if you decide to swap bodies. How do you keep the tube from pulling out of the clamps? Also I didn't see it in your post - where did you get the clamps from?
 
Tapping the bottom holes would require pretty good alignment between the upper and lower plates too.

I like the removable cage idea. To me it is a great way to save your investment in the cage if you decide to swap bodies. How do you keep the tube from pulling out of the clamps? Also I didn't see it in your post - where did you get the clamps from?


Its in the very first sentence :haha:, I got the clamps at MAD4x4.com. As far as "pulling out of the clamps" if you mean in the case of an impact on a tube that is clamped in place, to keep it from sliding on the tube its clamped around. I plan on having atleast 2, or more if necessary, clamps in 2 different planes. Meaning if there is a clamp, clamped around a tube running front to back of the truck then there will also be a clamp, clamped side to side, like a gusset, only removable and at a 45 deg angle. This is all theory ofcourse.

Wont know if it will work till I design it, and lay it all out. Have not gotton that far yet. Its just another damn project to start at some point. And yes I will need alot more then 4 clamps, but thats a start. At 32 bucks a pop they arn't cheap.
 
thats kinda expensive for r&d..err trial and error isn't it


Before I buy too many I will get it all figured out. I can use them for some stuff on my K5 cage too. I think I can get it done, Im gonna try like hell to get a bitchin cage designed up that works with this idea. Besides its only money, some day when Im dead it wont matter anyways. :D you cant take it with you, thats my motto.
 

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