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more electrical issues with our 99 burb

NEK5

NEK5

3/4 ton status
Joined
Oct 25, 2005
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Location
Ipswich MA
It doesn`t seem to end with this thing. As some of you know, I was having issues with the truck stalling, and it turned out to be corrosion between the 2 positive cables. So, cleaned it, new bolt, all fixed. Now, we are having problems with it not starting. My stepdad said the last day or two, he would turn the key, get nothing, then do it again, and it would start.

Well, today I went to go move it out of the driveway so that I could put axles behind where it was parked, and I got nothing. When I turned the key, it was almost like a dead battery, but all I could here was like the fuses/relays clicking. I pulled the key out, and it started making a clicking noise from under the dash. Called my buddy up,and his dad asked if I fixed the groundstrap, because I guess he saw it needed to be replaced. The ground strap from the cab to the frame melted to the exhaust, and when he pulled it off, it got real frayed, and it definitely needed to be replaced. I looked at it again, and it looked like there were three strands holding it together:eek1: So i replaced it. Still nothing.

99gmcclassic came because he was dropping off the axles i bought from him, and I told him what was wrong with it. He said to check the strap where it bolts to the passenger side head. I did, it was tight. He said it almost sounded like a dead batt. So i hooked up the jumper cables, and all of the sudden the volt gauge popped up to 14, so i tried starting it. Turned over a little, then nothing, gauge was still at 14. The speedometer was jumping as I was cranking. Took the jumper cables off, tried it again. Nothing. For some reason, the fuel gauge started moving, and it went past full.

Any ideas?:(
 
Dont know if this helps but I had a problem with my burb where it would crank over with no prob but not ignite. I checked fuel pressure and it was fine. Ended up being a passlock security module or some crap like that that sat on the back of the ignition in the column and it sent a command to the injectors not to open. Also had the corrosion cable problem cut the rubber boot off the cable and soaked it in baking soda and water.
 
gm500hpwrat said:
Dont know if this helps but I had a problem with my burb where it would crank over with no prob but not ignite. I checked fuel pressure and it was fine. Ended up being a passlock security module or some crap like that that sat on the back of the ignition in the column and it sent a command to the injectors not to open. Also had the corrosion cable problem cut the rubber boot off the cable and soaked it in baking soda and water.
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Unfortunately, no. But thanks for the help man, I really appreciate it.:wink1: I just wish I could figure this thing out:mad:
 
Have the battery and alternator checked to see if they are good. Sounds like the battery isn't holding power which would indicate a bad alt.
 
Would that be why the volt gauge read 14, as soon as I hooked up the jumpers? If it were a dead battery, it should be low, then slowly come up. Bad alternator?
 
The stock battery is an AC Delco, so it has the check tube thing, and its green, which means its good, no?:confused:
 
TTT!

Anyone else have any thoughts?

When I get home from work tomorrow, I guess I`ll pull the alternator and battery and have them tested.
 
In my 99 3/4 burb I went through 3 alternators..I ended up just keeping a bran new one in the thing as a spare:crazy:

if you can spend the money, just got pick up an alternator and a new battery, toss them in one at a time, less trips to the store and if you really want to toss what you dont need on and you should be good to go with some piece of mind. the time your spending jerking around with this should be giving you a headache by now. also on the newer trucks if should not run if the battery is disconected. so if you have tried a good battery...looks like an alternator

on older trucks, you can test the system backward by unhooking the battery.. if the truck still runs, alt is good, iirc

I also had a problem with the cables on mine, seems the way the were when I got the thing wast frying them like an egg on the sidewalk in arizona
 
supersize75k5 said:
In my 99 3/4 burb I went through 3 alternators..I ended up just keeping a bran new one in the thing as a spare:crazy:

if you can spend the money, just got pick up an alternator and a new battery, toss them in one at a time, less trips to the store and if you really want to toss what you dont need on and you should be good to go with some piece of mind. the time your spending jerking around with this should be giving you a headache by now. also on the newer trucks if should not run if the battery is disconected. so if you have tried a good battery...looks like an alternator

on older trucks, you can test the system backward by unhooking the battery.. if the truck still runs, alt is good, iirc

I also had a problem with the cables on mine, seems the way the were when I got the thing wast frying them like an egg on the sidewalk in arizona
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Well, I haven`t tried a good battery yet. Thats if the one in there isn`t good. It`s the same AC Delco that was in there the day we got it:o Alt. is original as well...
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
Well, I haven`t tried a good battery yet. Thats if the one in there isn`t good. It`s the same AC Delco that was in there the day we got it:o Alt. is original as well...
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the battery I took out read it was good on the guage thing green color thingy ma-bob do-hicky

could just very well be a battery, but how much do you want to screw around, also do you have a voltage meter? harbor fright has 5.00 ones and any auto store will have a 15-20.00 one..a very very usefull tool
 
supersize75k5 said:
the battery I took out read it was good on the guage thing green color thingy ma-bob do-hicky

could just very well be a battery, but how much do you want to screw around, also do you have a voltage meter? harbor fright has 5.00 ones and any auto store will have a 15-20.00 one..a very very usefull tool
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I don`t want to screw around at all. Done too much already:crazy:

A regular multimeter?

Did you have similar problems when you alternator(s) went?
 
yes, but in one case I was also dealing with a bad battery

with the alt out you very well may not be regulating the power any more since they are internally regualted. i dont know if this makes sence of not though or if it is the case.

the battery can be tested with just a multmeter but the best way to test it is under load, it may read enough when its not hooked up but under load, ie lights and running is may have a voltage drop, your truck needs at least some juice just to power the fuel injectors and pump alone.

one idea is t put the battery in your k5 and test it under load, but if you have to make a trip to the store for a multimeter you can get is tested by the parts store for free. if you have a charger charge it before you go.
 
All that guage jumping around business kinda sounds like a ground issue to me.. Id check all your connections again just to ge sure...
 
Alright. My buddys dad dropped off a load tester for me this morning. Tested the battery, reads at 12volts:confused:
 
EDIT: Looks like I did the load test wrong. I thought you were supposed to keep the load on for 10 seconds, then read what the voltage is. Well, you are supposed to keep it on for 10 seconds, but you have to keep the load on when you read the gauge. And, it was bad. So, looks like a new batt is going to find its way into this truck. I`ll take the alt off as well, and have it tested while i`m there.

Could it be possible that the bad groundstrap, that was literally held on by a few strands helped in the death of this battery or possibly alternator?
 
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