More Jethro-Bilt 14b covers... PIcs

[Zeus33rd]

Unfinished pics cause I ran out of welding wire. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

Here's what the old one looks like. Just shaped slightly different.

/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[CK5]

Cool, I remember growing up my Mom used to have one of those to bake cakes in, yummy. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[Zeus33rd]

haha! I think you are actually the second person to say that. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[SF87K5]

WOW how thick of plate are you using?

Looks very BEEFY. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[TxK5Blazer]

Jethro can u make one for a 10bolt also

 

[thatK30guy]

It appears the new one you are making now is deeper than the original one, correct?

How much does that new one weigh? It looks like it could be around 25-ish lbs. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

Finally, send me a PM to give me a price and shipping quote for you to make me one. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[3car]

very impressive /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[HarryH3]

Wow! Are you trying to lighten the front end by hanging extra weight behind the rear axle? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

 

[jarheadk5]

DAMN!! Put that thing on with Grade 8's and put a bottlejack under it, and you could probably jack the whole ass-end of your truck up with that!

Looks good, though. I like it.

 

[85burbanator]

damn dude those are some clean ass welds. are you using gas or flux core? those things are bad ass /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[Shaggy]

<font color="green"> Joe is a pro welder, when you weld for 10 hours a day ya get good. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif</font>

 

[Zeus33rd]

The new one is deeper, by about 1/2". More gear lube capacity. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I can get an exact measurement tommorrow if ya want./forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

I just weighed the new one- It weighs in at 26.5lbs. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

Made from 3/8" and 1/2" material. The reason the 1/2" material is in there is cause thats all I could get on that particular Saturday. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif Future covers will be entirely made from 3/8". Welded with .035 solid wire and 75/25 "Gold Gas" mix in a Lincoln PowerMIG 200.

I could make one for a 10 bolt I suppose...But I don't have a 10 bolt housing to fit them up to. And I'm not gonna buy one. 10 bolts suck. hehe /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

And Wes, I'll pm ya shortly with the info you want. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif

And thanks for the compliments on my welds. I've now gotten to a point where I don't really have to try anymore. lol, Starting to get a bit boring. It's all good though, TIG welding at work is definatley not boring. TIG welding is sooooo much more intricate and involved. I could spend the same about of years TIG welding as I have with other types of welding, and not come anywhere close to the same knowledge. Only been really TIG welding for about 6 months now...And to add more confusing to the mix, I just got a new machine at work. Miller TIG Runner 250 DX. This thing has more buttons and dials on it than I know what to do with. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Digital display for volts and amps. Has the pulser upgrade.....Started messin with that thing today... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Just that much more $hit to learn...

Anyways....Sorry bout the welding lecture. I love to talk welding/welders etc etc. Sometimes I get carried away. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif

 

[thefarside]

I know the steel stock is very thick but did you have any warping issues on the flange that bolts up to the pumpkin when welding it together?

 

[Zeus33rd]

[ QUOTE ]
I know the steel stock is very think but did you have any warping issues on the flange that bolts up to the pumpkin when welding it together?

[/ QUOTE ]

In a word, yes. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

There is some warpage from the heat, nothing serious though. I can correct most of it with controlled use of a big hammer. I'm not sure there is a time effective way for me, with the resources I have, to solve the problem. So till I figure something else out, I have to fit &amp; shape each one to a housing to make sure the gasket surface seals. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[thefarside]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I know the steel stock is very think but did you have any warping issues on the flange that bolts up to the pumpkin when welding it together?

[/ QUOTE ]

In a word, yes. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

There is some warpage from the heat, nothing serious though. I can correct most of it with controlled use of a big hammer. I'm not sure there is a time effective way for me, with the resources I have, to solve the problem. So till I figure something else out, I have to fit &amp; shape each one to a housing to make sure the gasket surface seals. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

What if you clamped or tack welded the flange to a thick (1" or thicker) ass piece of steel that might limit warping the flange, maybe. Just a thought...

 

[Zeus33rd]

When I welded up the original one, I had it bolted to a housing with all 14 bolts. It still warped.

I'm experimenting a bit in the order I make the welds. I think the flange is gonna warp regardless of what I do. The weld on the inside of the cover that attachs the flange, is 3/4" wide. Pretty much has to be that wide to look right with the thickness of the material I use. Thats ALOT if heat concentrated there. Not much I can do about it unless I re-design the entire thing. It's not really that much trouble to fix. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif

 

[Shaggy]

<font color="green"> It's too bad you can't get them on a mill to flycut the mating surface once they're all wedled together, that would be the ideal way to get it perfectly flat. </font>

 

[Blazer1970]

[ QUOTE ]
<font color="green"> It's too bad you can't get them on a mill to flycut the mating surface once they're all wedled together, that would be the ideal way to get it perfectly flat. </font>

[/ QUOTE ]

Yup, or a surface grinder.

 

[willyswanter]

Joe, mine have the same problem, after welding they are warped about 1/8"-1/4" of an inch accross the surface and absolutely would not seal on a diff. They have to be either surface ground, which would be rather cheap to out source, or milled flat. I'm going to be milling all the new ones, I'm building a fixture right now to hold the covers flat upside down in the mill for flattening. Because of this I'm starting with 1/2" material for the base ring so I can mill off the 1/8" or so of warpage...

 

[Waxer]

The covers I used to make/sell initially had that problem. But I read up on a few welding techniques on how to help control distortion and they seemed to work.

For every 1" of weld I did on one side, I would weld 1" on the opposite side to cancel it out. Now I made a complete cover once out of 1/4" plate using my MillerMatic 210 MIG welder and using that technique I had no distortion.

I cut out the ring using my plasma cutter, which was a 1/4" thick piece. Pictured here...

Then I welded on the side pieces. I would weld about an inch, then space out an inch, then weld up another inch, and so on. Till I completely went around once, then I went around once again to fill up the 1" spaces. No warpage from that, that I could tell. It still mounted flush to the diff housing after the thing was complete.


Anyways, I am no where near as good a weldor as Jethro. I have seen some amazing beads from his pictures. I have only had some exposure to other career weldors that have taught me some things about distortion and warpage control. I hope this helps anyone seeking a couple tips.