More power for my 350. ideas?

[k5blazer85]

well im runin a edelbrock 650cfm performer. it actually doesnt have much of a problem performin off road except like what was said, it stalls if your sittin at an incline for more than a min. but other than that the performer works really well. but your best bet would be to go with a quadrajet. they work very well offroad. just my opinion. oh yeah and you really should cam the engine if your gonna run off road. cuz stock doesnt cut it. lol.

 

[b00sted]

20lb bottle and a 50 shot of nitrous. If you can feel it bogging out in the mud, and full throttle doesn't help, a little spray will...And it's fairly cheap too.

 

[k5blazer85]

oh yeah, thats the way to do it. if you cant get power the old fashion way by buildin it up. use nitros. woohoo. talk about a screamin good time. hahaha. can you imagine, stuck in mud hit the button get an extra 100hp or more then go flyin out the hole and spray everyone with mud. talk about a good ol time. heheheh. o wait i did that once. man was it funny. everyone within 30ft. got covered in mud. man that was fun. to bad my truck runs like crap right now. the last person who had it befor me had the engine rebuilt and the person who did the rebuild did a really bad job. o well, my turn now hahaha.

 

[b00sted]

I'm saying, if you're going full throttle and it's still bogging out, 50hp will really help.

The old-fashioned way of building engines isn't an option, at least around here. I can't run 13:1 on race gas, because any car made after 1980 has to be tested for emissions.

Also, nitrous and forced induction rocks. Plain and simple. The coolest car i have ever been in is a 2004 Cobra with a smaller blower pulley and a 75 shot...I couldn't even hear the engine over the whine of the blower...and the nitrous just made things more fun.

 

[76blazerguy]

i dont really want nitrous, i want the extra power mainly for highway driving an of course a little offroad but mainly the highway. i want something that is always going to be there with out having to go fill a tank up. im really not askin for a whole lot more performance just a little more.

 

[loafer]

My opinion and I'm sure there's someone out there who will diasagree with me... is the heat riser really doesn't do anything to warm the engine up faster. Its just another B.S. part the factory put on the engine because the US govenment told them to. The idea behind it is to lower emissions, by warming the engine up faster because an engine makes most of its pollution before it reaches normal operating temperature. How much faster did they think it was going to warm up? I wonder if they even tested these devices before they decided all vehicles needed it. All this ingenuity was done with my tax money. Unless you live in a state where they they look for that stuff during inspection, I suggest tossing it.
Useless part #2 is that exhaust heat valve, on the passenger side exhaust manifold. Its based on the same idea as the heat riser. It stays almost closed until the engine is warmed up, then it opens - a little. Some were vacuum accuated some were mechanical. While putting headers on my buddies 88 Jimmy, we noticed the thing was siezed in the closed position! Those headers made a huge improvement.
Useless part #3 egr valve
Useless part #4 air pump

I guess it doesn't get too cold in Jersey It's not only for emisions...

If you live anywhere where there is a lot of cold and wet weather you need the heat riser if you run a stock cam (high vacuum at idle) with either a carb or TBI set up. (No worries with MPI). Other wise the throttle blades ice up and the truck stalls out at idle.

I control mine with a toggle switch on the dash, and if I start the truck in the morning and don't close that damper the truck stalls after about 2mins at idle due to ice on the throttle blades.

 

[76blazerguy]

yea im in kansas, and it was stallin a lot with it on until i cleaned the carb and choke but now it doesnt stall. we have had some nasty wet cold weather recently so it helps to have something that reliably starts and warms up.

 

[dirtwarrior17]

Its comes down to how much you have to spend. A bigger carb on a motor with no intake/exhaust mods is almost pointless. you will pay 300 bucks for a 15-20 hp gain. Put a manifold, a cam, headers and exhaust with the carb and you will feel a huge difference on the highway and every where else. The stock motors are gutless in 4th gear and suck a lot of gas in 3rd on the highway. I got tired of doggin it up hills so i swapped it for a 400 hp 355. I recomend getting an edelbrock performer 600 or 650 carb with a crosswind type manifold, a cam, and some exhaust.

sticker price: Ebay price:
edelbrock 600 cfm carb $262.00 $140
edelbrock airgap/crosswind manifold 200.00 $140
good cam 272 dur and .447 lift $170 $150
flowtech afterburner headers $130 $100
flowtech y pipe $89.00 (don't need it) $75
k and n $50.00 $35

$851 $640

Should get you at least 65 hp but probably more around 75