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Most flexable?

i still dont understand the big deal. if your springs twist, pay $50 and get another pair. just goes with the game right?
plus doesnt the overload help prevent wrap?
 
73redblaze said:
i still dont understand the big deal. if your springs twist, pay $50 and get another pair. just goes with the game right?
plus doesnt the overload help prevent wrap?
Click to expand...

did you not watch the video?i posted special for you...it will explain axle wrap to you since i m not able to seem to get through to u :rolleyes:
 
73redblaze said:
i still dont understand the big deal. if your springs twist, pay $50 and get another pair. just goes with the game right?
plus doesnt the overload help prevent wrap?
Click to expand...

Untill you bust a main leaf or 2 while on the trail. Then those $50 springs turn into a possible trans, t case, driveshaft and whatever else it takes with it.
 
no i cant watch it on this computer. sorry for my ignorance :). hey im a noob what else can i say?
 
alright since the huge topic now is linking, i have a question that maybe will help resolve this. obviously odin's setup is very controversial, but i like the concept. so my first question
1. if odin's setup is so bad, what would yall do to change it? i know the locations are the biggest concern so what would be the best solution
2. if using this setup, could you eventually change it for coils or would you have to redo the entire setup?
i would love to run links and coils and thats my plan eventually, but i have no knowledge in the area so maybe we could kill two birds in one stone??
 
73redblaze said:
i still dont understand the big deal. if your springs twist, pay $50 and get another pair. just goes with the game right?
plus doesnt the overload help prevent wrap?
Click to expand...
I have 64s in the rear of my rig, 3 leaf + overload. VERY SOFT! In 2:1 range I was stuck in some snow and I could feel the axle wrapping while I was spinning the tires, I could only imagine what it would be in 4:1 low range. No wrap bar yet, I have the DIY backbone installed and I have the wraptor parts in the basement, they need to be modified for my application but there's no way im going to go wheeling without a traction bar, mudding maybe but no crawling.
 
ha!!! i watched the vid!!! that ****s crazy!!! dude i gotta fab somthing up now... more pics of your anti wrap setups plez!!!
 
i found this on google. is this enough or do i need 2 bars? or do i need to reinforce the single one?
soa4.gif
 
GEORGIA GABE said:
Is the upper link on a three link usually triangulated... yes, about 10 deg
Click to expand...

Joints at all ends or bushings?



73redblaze said:
i still dont understand the big deal. if your springs twist, pay $50 and get another pair. just goes with the game right?
plus doesnt the overload help prevent wrap?
Click to expand...

Axle wrap will keep you from making obstacles and is much harder on parts.

And on that note, wanting more flex is really not the reason to switch to a linked suspension. Wanting a suspension that will climb unlike any leaf sprung suspension is.
 
odin said:
Gabe that is a Jeep


Thought we were dealing with Chevy/GMCs:confused:
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Odin, the physics dont change because of the name on the grill. Yes a fullsize is bigger and heavier, all the more reason for it to be built as strong as possible. As to the lack of room under the truck... I think it would fit, but if it wont there is no reason to build it improperly just to make it fit.
 
GEORGIA GABE said:
Odin, the physics dont change because of the name on the grill. Yes a fullsize is bigger and heavier, all the more reason for it to be built as strong as possible. As to the lack of room under the truck... I think it would fit, but if it wont there is no reason to build it improperly just to make it fit.
Click to expand...

You guys really need to quit it with this crap, taking shots at each other is not helping CK5 in any way. If you want to talk trash to each other, take it to PM's.


Past that, I like discussing this stuff with you Gabe. You're clearly a guy that knows what he's doing, wheels his truck and knows a bit about link suspensions.



To the original poster, 52"/56" leaves front and rear will flex very well and are very cheap (52" leaves are very common in the rear of 1/2 ton K-series trucks while 56"s are more common in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks).

A set of rear springs up front (either 52's or 56's) will net ~4" of lift and will move the front axle forward 2" (good for bigger tires). In the rear, a shackle flip (available from several companies) will net 4" of lift using the stock 52/56" springs. Cheap, easy, great flex.

The only real downfall is that you'll need to go to crossover steering (if you drive it on the street) or full hydro (trailer queen). The stock steering will not work with flexy front springs.
 
A set of rear springs up front (either 52's or 56's) will net ~4" of lift and will move the front axle forward 2" (good for bigger tires). In the rear, a shackle flip (available from several companies) will net 4" of lift using the stock 52/56" springs. Cheap, easy, great flex.
Click to expand...
or do 64's in the rear found in 88 or newer burbs. it will give you about 5" of lift and over 15" of travel
 
73redblaze said:
or do 64's in the rear found in 88 or newer burbs. it will give you about 5" of lift and over 15" of travel
Click to expand...

I hit (rocks) and bent (axle wrap) my 52's so bad that I'd be afraid that 64's wouldn't have lasted even an hour under my buggy.

You can get all the flex you need from 52's, to me its more about making a more capable vehicle and not who can score the most points on an RTI ramp ;)

Here's my buggy from years back with 52's front and rear (with the stock rear shackle setup :eek1:), all four tires are still on the ground

avatar1.jpg
 
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