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MOTOR BUILDING HELP

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another thing i should mention is this will be mostly for mud and sand not slow rocks. so i want to get as much out of the motor as i can


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Is this mud racing mud or is this trail mud? If this is trail mud I would stick to a dual plane intake like a performer or performer RPM or air gap. A performer RPM will be good up to about 6500 RPMs. With the Torker you will lose some low end torque. I am not saying it will not work if you already have the intake. You probably wont see any gains with the torker over a dual plane untill about 4000 RPMs. If this is a mud racing vehicle then go with the torker and put a solid cam in there and let it rip. Jus my 0.02.
 
use the comp cam 4x4 cam check into a set of newer chevy vortec heads. they kick but on the older ones out of the box! you can get a pair for 400 bucks complete. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
If you don't buy a noisy geardrive and just get a good double roller chain it will save you same $$$$. The geardrive won't do anything for your performance and it will get annoying...trust me /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
 
shannon aim for about 9 or 9.5 to one. and a good comp cam 4x4 cam. my brother and buddy both run the comp cams in thiers. (79 with a 355 with trickflow heads and a 86 with a 358 with vortec heads) the 86 runs 4.10s and 39.5s and doesn't use granny in his sm465.
 
Ditch the small block And get a Big block. A mild 454 will give you all the power and Torque ( the magic word)you need.
 
run at least 10:1 compression unless you are a guy that runs the absolute worst fuel available
a cheapo cam like 268 comp
quiet geardrive is cool by me, a real single idler one is $$
Performer manifolds are not very good, if you want a dual plane the old Weiand8004 was the one to get
you run a stick right? you don't need as low an rpm as the slushbox boys
 
screw all the "run this CR" crap, if you havent chosen a cam yet, you cannot properly choose a compression ratio.
 
For our area and the type of wheeling we do a budget minded 350 build up is more than sufficent.
You just have to choose all the components wisely.
The heads you have are they hevy duty castings or the light ones?
If they are the light duty ones I would be wary about using them. They have a tendancy to crack around the mid head bolt holes just from torquing them down.
If they are the HD flavor and are in good shape I would run em. They should be 76cc chamber heads depending on if they have been resurfaced with prolly 180cc runners.
With a lil massging of the chambers and port matching the runners they will support a cam with around 215* duration at .050"
Running Flattop pistons should put it around 9:1.
You would have to CC everything and do some math to get the final ratio but that should be a ballpark figure.
It will run healthy on 87oct too.
Which on not only a daily driver but the only set of wheels ya have and considering that at $2.00 a gallon for 87 it costs $60 to fill up.
Personaly I would keep it in the low 9 range.
As far as the intake.. I know ya been runnin it and all but put it away and get a good dual plane manifold.
Preferably one that is spreadbore.
The Ebrock Q-jet RPM is my personal choice, good to around 6K. And on a basic stock rotating assy and stock heads all you are going to get out of it is a 5500 range.
No matter what it has to be reliable as well.
Geardrive... unless ya have one already I would just get a good chain drive and put the $$ towards other parts needed.
If I was on a budget I would buy a set of Manley valves instead of a gear drive.
I am getting the parts for my 350 from Northern Autoparts.
As said you can make up a nice package for a decent price.
BTW the mouse that I am building...
350 4 bolt main.
993 1.94 heads, still need to go to the Barbershop.
Rhoads cam.
Ebrock Q-jet RPM manifold
And some good ol flattop pistons.
Dump it all out through 2.25" pipes into the mufflers and out with 2.5"
I do like the more cube approach to more HP and low end torque.
If I could eat pennies and sh!t $20's I would just build the 454 I have.
 
that seems odd to me
we know the operating conditions
the cam should match the combo not the other way around
a point of compression pays huge low end torque dividends
 
your right, that extra point of compression can be very valuable. however, it can turn a decent engine into an AV gas burning piece of crap. compression ratios determine what kind of fuel octane you must run. if you were to stab an RV cam into an 11:1 engine, you would end up burning the highest octane you could find. if properly combined you can run any compression ratio you want on 87 octane, you just have to have enough cam to run it. with a bigger cam comes a higher powerband. if you knew anything about building a smallblock for real power, you would figure out what RPM range you want, pick a cam, and build accordingly.
 
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looks like a nice mid range cam. Heads are the big thing from here.

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ok what can i expect with 194 heads and 9.5:1 and the edelbrock performer intake headers and true dual 2.5in exhaust?
 
what heads? 1.94 tells me nothing /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Could flow like crap or be decent. like was said before, 1.94, 2.02 don't mean a whole heck of a lot. Vortec heads are 1.94 intake valve heads and they are felt to be the best flowing factory castings around.
 
I ran the numbers on desktop dyno with Vortec heads.

345HP @ 5000 RPMs
390Ft-Lbs. @ 3500-4000

@2000 RPMs 364 Ft-Lbs.
@5000 RPMs 362 Ft-Lbs.

Pretty decent torque curve. Looks like a really nice motor setup with some good heads /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.
 
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Do the 383.

It's not as expensive as you think.

I'd say throw out any GM heads you have but you said there is a serious budget.

9:1 is plenty for a truck.

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Will TBI work with this Tim??

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Why not? Should be perfect.

Jeremy is dead on about the buildup tips.

DITCH THOSE GM HEADS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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that seems odd to me
we know the operating conditions
the cam should match the combo not the other way around
a point of compression pays huge low end torque dividends

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A point of compression and a knock prone motor, sucks.

Especially with all these engines running around at .080" of quench.
 
I used Dyno2000 for this.

I guessed on some of the specs but this would be a good rule of thumb for the hp/torque.

The following combo should put out:

312 HP at 5000 rpm
380 Torque at 3500 rpm

355 small block
4.030 bore
3.48 stroke

stock 1.94,1.5 heads

9.5 compression

600cfm carb

single-plane manifold

large tube headers with mufflers

hyd lifter

int lift .477
exh lift .48
IVO 28
IVC 60
EVO 74
EVC 26
 
my buddy has that the step down from that cam, with 9.0-9.5 comp and 882 heads mildly ported and highrise (didn't take my recomendation) manifold, headers and true dual 2.5" and it throws you back in the seat when on the gas, its got some good power

i have the same cam in my 355, speed pro forged pistons, 9.5 comp, wieand stealth intake, 441 heads (soon to be change with some 041s /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif) in my garage and i wanna start it so bad, just nothing to put it in yet. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
 
the XE268 with around 9.5-9.6:1 CR is a very common setup with the sport truck crowd. makes good all around power. add a good set of heads (maybe junkyard Vortecs?) and you should be very happy with it. it will also run great on pump gas.
 
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