motor mount question

[SkysTheLimit]

I was talking to buddy who's really into drag racing and we got on the subject of motor mounts in my truck. I've dropped a mean big block in (haven't finished the swap so i haven't started it yet) and he said with the stock mounts, there's a very good possibility the motor mounts would break and the motor would torque itself over to the side and break a bunch of things. He reccomended, based on drag experience, solid mounts.

I dont think I like the idea of solid mounts and I certainly dont like the idea of breaking a bunch of stuff for a silly reason. Would Kert's poly mounts be enough? "Mean" is about 800hp/700tq.

 

[cegusman]

Kerts should be plenty strong. I could see it being a problem if you where running the stock rubber ones.

 

[SkysTheLimit]

Oh joy. that means new bushings all down the line then. Mo powa, mo money, mo problems.

Thanks.

 

[rcamacho]

I've run solid mounts in the past on bracket/street vehicles. I would not recommend it on a flexy 4wd vehicle as chassis flex may cause the block to crack. Block failure is even a calculated risk on street vehicles with solid mounts.

Urethane mounts should be sufficient, just be sure to run a transfer case support rod. If you need more control, than you could always add a limiting rod or chain from the engine to the frame. Competition Engineering offers a decent weld in kit. Provided you run urethane mounts, a limiting strap will control the remaining wrap while still allowing the drivetrain to move a bit and not crack the block.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_56956_-1
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/04/quicktips/

 

[SkysTheLimit]

The cable was one thing he mentioned. I didnt think about flexing and cracking the block. I knew I didnt want to run that way but now I know why!

I do have the support for the Tcase, it's a pain in the neck to route exhaust around with my big honkin headers but I'll figure something out.

I'm going to shop around and find some poly mounts for the tcase/tranny and get a set of DIY4x mounts for the motor. They'll help with clearance of the drivers side header to boot.

thanks for the feedback. I'm really hoping to get her started with the long weekend!

 

[k30bb468]

I have the ones from Energy Suspension in my 69' Chevelle with a pretty stout 468 BBC.
They have a built in safety lock, check em out.
http://www.performancesuspension.com/motorTransMounts.htm

 

[dyeager535]

Not saying rubber is the way to go, just to mention it though, all new Chev mounts can't fail like the old ones. The bolt is captive in the mount, the worst that can happen is the rubber seperates or falls apart, then the engine WILL move around.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I killed a new set of rubber mounts in less than 2 years. I will be going with poly and doubt I will have any more problems.

I wouldn't hard mount a motor in between your Chevy frame rails (already been said, I know)