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Motor mount replacement

TJ1978

TJ1978

I have MANY questions
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I ordered the ORD competition motor mounts as suggested in another thread. I have rubber motor mounts and poly transmission mount, which I wasn't aware was an issue. It's been like this for 4 years.

I have an engine hoist, or floor jack.

What method is best for doing this with the engine still in the truck?

Also lifting the engine might be a problem as the engine is angled back making the distributor close to the firewall leaving me with barely any room to lift. Unless the lifting brings it to the front of the truck.

I know the angle is an issue, dropping the Tcase was done (previous owner) and we all know why. I have no desire and much more importantly, no money to remedy it now.

So, suggestions? Or even better a video?
 
This video is the diy4x version, but very similar to ORD's. I'm sure they just jacked it up with the oil pan.
 
cheavyk10 said:
This video is the diy4x version, but very similar to ORD's. I'm sure they just jacked it up with the oil pan.
Click to expand...
Hahaha, I just finished that vid. I get the gist of it. My concern is lifting it and busting the distributor cap. Sure would be nice to have an extra set of hands around for this. Hahahaha

There is no issue with drive lines or distributor with how these mounts lift the engine
 
I'd use the motor hoist, you don't need to lift it a lot.

* If the dist cap is close, unscrew it from the dist body and let it lay next to it that'll give more room. (don't disconnect anything)
* Watch the fan vs fan shroud when you lift the motor but you likely have room.
* I don't think you'll need to take anything else loose, you'll only move it 2"-3" so the hoses and exhaust should move enough.
 
nvrenuf said:
I'd use the motor hoist, you don't need to lift it a lot.

* If the dist cap is close, unscrew it from the dist body and let it lay next to it that'll give more room. (don't disconnect anything)
* Watch the fan vs fan shroud when you lift the motor but you likely have room.
* I don't think you'll need to take anything else loose, you'll only move it 2"-3" so the hoses and exhaust should move enough.
Click to expand...
Cool.. I have electric fans.

I'll update once they arrive and I'm ready to do this. I have a couple days off after Halloween. Should be able to tackle this then.
 
I just 2 weeks ago had to remove the drivers side mount on my ‘87 Suburban. One of the bolts holding the bracket to the block was loose and I couldn’t get a wrench on it without pulling the mount out. I used an engine house to pick up from the top so I wouldn’t have a jack in my way underneath. With the drivers side still attached the engine pivoted side to side pretty easy.
 
When I did my ORD motor mount install I used my engine hoist to get the engine lifted up about 2-inches, which is enough clearance to get them out. Once I got the engine lifted up on the Left side I placed a small block of 4X4 wood between the exhaust manifold, and the frame as a security measure to keep the engine from coming down on me if the hoist where to fail. On the Right side I placed the same block of 4X4 wood between the fuel pump block provision and the frame.

I did one side at a time. I bolted the upper ORD mount to the engine first, then took bolts that where a little longer than the stock lower mount bolts to very loosely hold the lower mount to the frame. The loose lower mounts will allow you to line up the main support bolt hole. After you slide the main support bolt through you can then drop the engine back down, and the lower mount holes should be lined up enough to bolt them down.
 
1-ton said:
When I did my ORD motor mount install I used my engine hoist to get the engine lifted up about 2-inches, which is enough clearance to get them out. Once I got the engine lifted up on the Left side I placed a small block of 4X4 wood between the exhaust manifold, and the frame as a security measure to keep the engine from coming down on me if the hoist where to fail. On the Right side I placed the same block of 4X4 wood between the fuel pump block provision and the frame.

I did one side at a time. I bolted the upper ORD mount to the engine first, then took bolts that where a little longer than the stock lower mount bolts to very loosely hold the lower mount to the frame. The loose lower mounts will allow you to line up the main support bolt hole. After you slide the main support bolt through you can then drop the engine back down, and the lower mount holes should be lined up enough to bolt them down.
Click to expand...
No issues with your distributor? Since mine is close, almost flush to the fire wall, I wonder if the cap has to come off. Maybe, I can get enough room doing one side at a time?
 
TJ1978 said:
No issues with your distributor? Since mine is close, almost flush to the fire wall, I wonder if the cap has to come off. Maybe, I can get enough room doing one side at a time?
Click to expand...
Later model squares distributors are smaller in diameter than older H.E.I. big cap and base ones. Good idea to take caution with the bigger ones.
 
TJ1978 said:
No issues with your distributor? Since mine is close, almost flush to the fire wall, I wonder if the cap has to come off. Maybe, I can get enough room doing one side at a time?
Click to expand...
No problem with distributor. I kept one main support bolt in the mounts at a time. That forces the engine to pivot slightly and go straight up. I also unbolted my transmission mount as well so the trans mount would not cause too much resistance to the engine lifting up.

tarussell said:
Later model squares distributors are smaller in diameter than older H.E.I. big cap and base ones. Good idea to take caution with the bigger ones.
Click to expand...
That is possible because my distributor is the smaller TBI one. If there is a problem the cap can be removed.
 
Question(s),
Couldn't I just buy the rubber transmission mounts and replace the poly ones? So I'd have rubber motor mounts and rubber transmission mounts, making a better match?

Second:
Since my distributor is close to the fire wall, will these ORD motor mounts raise the engine making the distributor contact the firewall?

Thirdly:
Since I've had the set up presently rubber motor mounts and poly transmission mounts. What is the downside to this set up? I don't wheel this rig barely at all. Is this set up not good at all or is street use acceptable?
 
So yes you could rubber on the trans mount. Rubber and Poly don't vibrate the same, this maybe why your trans mount bolts were loose.

The ORD and DIY mounts are a huge improvement or the stock clam shell mounts. Will they raise the engine ? Probably but only to where GM intended it to be.
Everyone is saying you need to lift the eng 2-3" this is not true. You only need to lift the weight off, remove the frame side mount then the engine. you can, and should do one side at a time. You can support the weight of the engine from the side and basically rotate to remove the weight, distributor would not get any closer to fire wall. If you pull the trans mount bolts you can jack up the t case then that angle won't be an issue while you do the mounts. 100s of way ways to skin this cat
 
Not to add confusion into the mix but I’m running polyurethane clamshell engine mounts and a rubber trans mount. 5 years with the 5.3/auto, 2 with the 8.1/manual.

It’s commonly put to run one or the other style. But after seeing the quality of rubber aftermarket clamshell mounts fail in short order I put the energy suspension mounts in and didn’t worry about it. I’ve yet to see any odd effects of the mismatch.
 
I think poly on the engine and rubber at the trans is more forgiving than the other way around. I to ran mine with poly on the trans, and oem rubber clam shells, but I must have done the engine mounts 3 time in 9 years, and was always checking and torquing the trans mounts.
 
Wes Harden said:
I think poly on the engine and rubber at the trans is more forgiving than the other way around. I to ran mine with poly on the trans, and oem rubber clam shells, but I must have done the engine mounts 3 time in 9 years, and was always checking and torquing the trans mounts.
Click to expand...
Probably what led to my trans mount being loose after 3.5 years. I just know with my luck, these ORD engine mounts are going to be a pain in the rear.. something will happen to make this turn into a week-long "upgrade". Which is why I'm hesitant and more inclined to just put rubber mounts on the tranny and just keep checking them. Installing the ORD motors mounts when these clam shells fail/wear out
 
it helps to have wobble sockets and hinged ratchets. I can't tell you how many clam shell mounts I have done on gm trucks and vans high 100s maybe over 1000.
I did mine in an afternoon, on my back no rush. Not a technical job.
 
Wes Harden said:
it helps to have wobble sockets and hinged ratchets. I can't tell you how many clam shell mounts I have done on gm trucks and vans high 100s maybe over 1000.
I did mine in an afternoon, on my back no rush. Not a technical job.
Click to expand...
I have both tools you recommend...fingers crossed
 
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