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Motor mounts - old ones out, new ones in.

badmix

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Opened the hood and seen the motor moving around pretty good, more than what I wouldve expected, its running and idling fine, so maybe the mounts are shot (1984 w/ 153,ooo miles). its a 305cid and may put a 350 out of another Blazer later on.

What mounts do ya'll recommend? Also, should I do trans and trans case at the same time? What about the ORD cross member? Im digging it but should it be done at the same time?

Also, is this something I can do on my back in a parking lot? I may have access to a lift but cant guarantee it.

Thanks :woot:
 
DIY 4x.... Just make sure you get a Poly Trans Mount, too... :D
You'll never regret it, and will outlive yer rig. :D
 
I see two advantages with the aftermarket crossmembers (whether ORD or DIY4X or whoever). The big one is increased clearance for crossover steering; you might also see increased stiffness over the stock riveted mess. If you have stock push-pull and/or aren't running a high-horse big block over insane rocks, I don't know that there's much value in the crossmember. If you are going to do it, then lawdy lawdy yes do both the crossmember and the motor mounts at once, as otherwise you'll do the same work twice.

Now, the poly motor mounts do offer longevity for anybody, even street trucks. You do get more vibration transmitted, and you should replace both motor and transmission mounts with poly, but you can decide for yourself if that's worth never having to replace them ever again. I installed the motor mounts with a bottle jack and hand tools under the truck, easy peasy.

-- A
 
if you still want stock basic I have used a few sets of energy suspension replacments that pop in the stock clam shell and these work super .

but if going all out later def diy4x or ord stuff.
 
I think the stock engine crossmember is the most worthless piece of metal on the entire frame of these trucks. Coupled with the horrible crossmember under the radiator, the front of the frame is like a wet noodle on muscle relaxers.

I also think the engine mounts that use leaf-spring style bushings kick ass. I will make a set for my DD when the bushings wear out on it some day. The stock design isn't bad, but the tube-style design is simple, cheap, and allows me to use a bushing I can find anywhere, including the box of bushings I buy in bulk.
 
**UPDATE**

Ordered the mounts last week, got them in the other day and changed out the motor mounts and trans mount today.

Over all the job went fairly well, no real surprises, it is a 2 man job for sure.

One lil hint if anyone is planning on doing this. the Trans mount from the factory has a metal sleeve, you can remove this sleeve before removing the rubber after you remove the long bolt, this will help you get the rubber part out, once the sleeve is removed.

Everything else went as well as expected, can be hard to get to the top bolts form the underside, the nuts are easy to get from the top.

I only got a small amount of vibration in the cab and mainly when the A/C was running. Things do "feeL" more solid but you know how that is.

The old mounts werent bad, about 75% good, so it didnt hurt to replace them but they werent so bad it was mandatory. Im glad I did, was a nice way to kill a morning. :D
 
if you still want stock basic I have used a few sets of energy suspension replacments that pop in the stock clam shell and these work super .

but if going all out later def diy4x or ord stuff.

x2

I used the energy suspension for motor mounts and trans mount.

I also used energy suspension body mounts. It does have more vibration. It is not real bad, but it was definitely noticeable over the 33 year old broken down factory mounts. The cab doesn't bottom out when I hit big bumps though, so the ride did improve, it just got more firm.

Which mounts did you use, OP?
 

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