Motor won't run?

[MrArmyAnt]

It's a 77 blazer. Replaced some gauges with aftermarket ones since the stock ones were dead. Motor ran before, a day before, and once out of the trail started again (I think that is an important fact so I know it isn't trail damage.)

Replaced water temp (forgot that it had water behind it, lost some, but it's run on a lot less) and oil pressure. Cut the Tach out, haven't hooked it back up. I know that can't be part of the problem, but that's the only thing that hasn't changed (been removed I mean.)

When I go to start it, the starter just turns and turns. Hit the gas before hand, and during. Thinking I flooded it, I waited a day, tried starting it with no gas, some gas, then a lot of gas, then it smelled like a lot of gas. The only sound I here is that of the starter spinning, never once did I hear a spark plug fire.

Anyone know what's going on?

Also, anyone know how to keep the alternator/water pump belt on better besides making it tighter? I always throw that and coolant steams out all over the place.

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Damnit damnit damnit someone make it start. I'm a few steps away from trying to pull start it.

 

[RIPPEDK5]

well did you cut a factory power wire that may have been taken off your tach ...It mayve gone to the distributor.. The same with me.. My motor dont run either, but mine is brand new... I would check your power to the distributor and make sure you have spark and proper timing

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Damnit. I'll check that when I get home. I was hoping it wouldn't be something that stupid. Thanks!

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Wired it back up. To my surprise, it didn't start. Any other ideas?

 

[RIPPEDK5]

You have fuel going to the motor? all your grounds hooked up? both on the block/frame/ underdash? Your timing set? Cap and rotor good? coil good? This only started when you removed things from the the dash, correct? Then there is either a ground or power not hooked up.

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Got it. Somehow the battery cable on the distributor had come off. No idea how. Water temp and oil pres. gauge don't work though, I see that the oil pres. has oil only a few inches thru the tube. Does it eventually go all the way or am I supposed to bleed it?

 

[RIPPEDK5]

no bleeding necessary on oil gauges or anything that uses oil...does the truck run though?

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Runs now. Tried AIMing you (had a question about something else). Turns out there was a kink in the plastic line. water temp gauge lags a lot if it even works, of course it doesn't heat much at idle.

 

[RIPPEDK5]

You should get copper or hard line for your gauges.. The coolant gauge should be bleed- by either cracking the line at the fitting or some other means. I personally dont like gauges that have fluid in them inside the cab.. Only because I had a oil line let go in my old yota all over my brand new jeans. Even with an old motor you should bring the motor up at a steady rpm and bring it to operating temperature because its not good just to idle a motor at cold temps. metal components will wear out at a higher rate especially at low oil pressure and thick oil..

 

[MrArmyAnt]

Oh it's also a new reman AC Delco motor (about 300hp, 400lb torque).

Ill try to change those parts of the gauges at some point. I just bought them for the cheap. Someone (forgot who) is amking a new bezel to hold angle corrected gauges. My speedo, tach, and fuel still work, so I am just waiting for them to die and that guy to produce the bezel so maybe I can go auto meter.