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Move axle forward 1” or 1-1/2”

84k5oleyeller

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I have a Dana 60 under my k5. Will see highway and offroad. I have cross over steering with approximately 8” suspension lift. Was thinking bout just moving forward 1” but may go ahead and go the extra 1/2”. What’s your thoughts? I will be installing tomorrow:saweet:
 
did it 1.5" forward on 5" of suspension lift and cross over with 37" tires and was fine minus the few things like drive shaft length and shock position but the plan was different shock setup anyway .

had her up to almost 90 mph on a highway test and she was just fine .
 
I’m coming down from 12” to 8”on 40s. I kinda want new shock and bumpstop locations but can’t decide what I want just yet. I just don’t want any binding in the steering or other major issues.
 
I’m coming down from 12” to 8”on 40s. I kinda want new shock and bumpstop locations but can’t decide what I want just yet. I just don’t want any binding in the steering or other major issues.
From what I see with mine being 1" forward, I don't believe that you will have problems going to the 1.5". Especially if you are doing new shock mounts.
Do you have hi-steer? From what I remember, that would begin to have problems hitting the drag link if you go past 2" forward.
@nvrenuf can you help?
 
From what I see with mine being 1" forward, I don't believe that you will have problems going to the 1.5". Especially if you are doing new shock mounts.
Do you have hi-steer? From what I remember, that would begin to have problems hitting the drag link if you go past 2" forward.
@nvrenuf can you help?


No hi steer.
 
From what I see with mine being 1" forward, I don't believe that you will have problems going to the 1.5". Especially if you are doing new shock mounts.
Do you have hi-steer? From what I remember, that would begin to have problems hitting the drag link if you go past 2" forward.
@nvrenuf can you help?

Yeah, my high steer issues are from the axle being 3” forward. If it was 2” or less the 2 rods wouldn’t hit.
 
Sweet looks like I’ll be going 1-1/2”...thanks y’all
 
yep you got them wrong .

need them in full contact on the axle spring pad .

and the NOW bottom has the round radius ends . they go UP to the leaf spring so there is no sharp edge for the leaf to bend and break on if you flex it to hard .

here ya go with pics https://www.offroaddesign.com/pub/media/productattach/z/e/zero_rate_add-a-leaf_instructions.pdf

Yeah I feel like a dum dum :doah:I was trying to look at the instructions on my phone via ORD but it wouldn’t open on my phone and we just put it together. I also feel like I need some degree shims for the front end driveshaft angle. I ran out of time this morning due to Mother’s Day weekend.
 
shims in the front KILL the caster and cause more problems than they fix a lot of the time . and the correct way with a dana 60 is 3 shims 2 for the pumkin side extra for the top so the leaf spring plate sits at the correct angle.
 
shims in the front KILL the caster and cause more problems than they fix a lot of the time . and the correct way with a dana 60 is 3 shims 2 for the pumkin side extra for the top so the leaf spring plate sits at the correct angle.

Well I thought I had 12” front springs with no binding in the front driveshaft. I went with 7” ORD + zero rate and 4.5” shackles in the front. Now my driveshaft is binding. Also my truck did not come down in lift and the truck is still level.

3DB16D6B-7FD3-4AEF-933F-3F1818D6E615.jpeg
 
If you truly end up needing to shim the front I recommend cutting an angle into the zero rate. If you have the time and a machine shop nearby.
I actually had ORD cut the angle before they shipped mine.
 

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