Moving shackle brakets to relocate front axle......

[fad2blk99]

From part of a previous post:
The zero rates I'm currently running to move the front axle forward throws off my caster angle. When moved forward, the axle follows the contour of the spring, tipping the pinion down somewhat. A shim brings the caster back to zero degrees (parallel to the ground) but the spring tends to move on the pad during hard wheeling b/c the studs on the right spring mount d60 don't follow the this contour like a u-bolt would (at least that's what I've been told-which does kinda make sense). Anyway....
With the zero rates it’s not the inch of lift I’m after so much as pushing the axle forward. I like increased the approach angles it gives and it also keeps the tire away from the firewall. Would it be feasible to move my forward and aft shackle attachments forward 1.5-2 inches? I know there’s not a lot of room to move the aft shackle before the frame starts to curve upward, but I could run a little longer shackle to keep the caster angle at zero and the longer shackle could also help with articulation. What do ya’ll think?

 

[Emmettology 101]

I responded to the other post on your above question. My thoughts:

If you run a longer rear shackle after moving the mounts forward, you are still going run into the low pinion problem as before the shim(even worse if you pull the shim out). Unless when you moved your front and rear mounts, you extended(lower) the front mount. That would help point the pinion up some.

 

[fad2blk99]

As I replied to your post in the other thread:

I was referring to moving the rear shackle forward and in doing so having to mount it higher due to the frame curving upward just in front of the stock location. I would only make the shackle the length needed to bring me back to a zero degree caster angle.

 

[Emmettology 101]

Ooppss.. sorry. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

I suggest either the tapered zero rate/spring plate idea or get rid of the shim and deal with the crappy pinion angle.

 

[fad2blk99]

The tapered zero rate doesn't address the angle on the spring plate studs. How is it any different than what I have now? The spring pack is moving on the zero rate, not in between the zero rate and shim.

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

If you use a tapered zero rate, and a tapered spring plate, it will pull straight on the studs and eliminate that problem.

Tony P was milling spring plates at an angle to solve this problem...and I plan on running them eventually. For now, my HAD can take the angle--but I'd prefer to turn my pinion up some in the future.

 

[BadDog]

I'm running 2" offset plates AND relocated the springs about 2" forward.

1) You can get plates made that incorporate the angle required. The pin on the zero rate should keep things located on the axle, and the bolt should hold things on the spring pack. Not sure what is happening here, the the matching taper on top and bottom should help.

2) Moving the spring mounts is feasible, and you can make the spring angle anything you want to fix the pinion/caster issues. The front mount moves forward rather easily under the core support. You can move it to center under the core support and eliminate the "L" bracket, or move the "L" bracket in front of the core support to get another inch or so. The rear can be moved forward and combined with longer shackles to fix the shackle angle issue and allows some control of angle. Might also be an opportunity to run a longer spring if you desire.

 

[Larry_in_Tx]

[ QUOTE ]
If you use a tapered zero rate, and a tapered spring plate, it will pull straight on the studs and eliminate that problem.

Tony P was milling spring plates at an angle to solve this problem...and I plan on running them eventually.

[/ QUOTE ]

That’s the route I took moving the axle forward 1.5” with 4* on the zero rate and the spring plate. Worked out good for me./forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif