It better be...
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Mr. Clean's dune cruising 71' K5 "Oprah" beams, links, and turbo ls powwwa
- Thread starter Mr.Clean
- Start date
Turbo and intercooler may not fit
Not with that kind of attitude. Where's the can do spirit?
Yes it will be. Ill get it as low as i can. Want to bring my center of gravity down.
Not with that kind of attitude. Where's the can do spirit?
Haha we will see....
RECKLESS_TRENT
RECKLESS Photography
What size tires are you wanting to run on it
I have a set of 35" general grabber red letters ready to go for it.
Damn you
Haha. Ive had them for a year just sitting around. Excited to finally use them.
What did you read my mind when I was coming up with plans? Lemme guess so,em kind of method wheel too?
Well...... yes actually I would like some method's. Your spot on 
Lol... Standards.. Polished??
Not sure how this would apply to trailing arms but I remember an article in FourWheeler or something where they talked about solid stock vs. tube when building 4-links and such. It was found that the tube was stronger for all of the applications.
Can't wait to see how it all pans out
Well...... yes actually I would like some method's. Your spot on
Kmc cough cough
But after seeing Tom wayes drive 25 miles on just the rim, I'm thinking Trail ready
That doesn't sound right.
It is definitely true that solid adds a LOT of weight for a minimal increase in strength over a thick-walled piece of tube. Going to a larger diameter tube adds a lot more strength than trying for strength by using solid, smaller diameter links.
Check out the "Materials" tab in the 4-link or 3-link calculator and you will be able to see it easily... For solid bar, just choose a number that is 1/2 overall diameter of the tube you are working with... (Ex. 2" tube with 1" wall thickness is SOLID rod).
-G
I didnt even think of using that, but i will check that out.
So first on the list is building the 9" and getting that done and ready. I habe a tab zone back bome truss on the way and also a disc conversion kit. Now im planning on upgrading axle shafts to Currie 35 spline shafts( you can get them in chevy 6 lug), thats one of the reasons im going with them. Now im looking to be locked in the rear my dilema is spend extra dough and get a locker or just get a spool? Spools are in the $100 range where as lockers are 300-500 name brand depending. I dont plan on driving all that much on the road. Mainly from camp ground to dunes other then that it would probally be lucky to see 1000 road miles a year. Im not worried about tire wear. My only concern does a spool give any wierd driving characteristics on pavement to be worried about say doing 55mph down a normal country road. I have never driven anything with a spool in it
No the only weird thing imho a spool does is a low speeds normally where you would coast in something you have to give is some throttle, sometimes the steering isn't as light like with a locker but I think.. A spool is much more predictable than any locker..
Just get the spool for what you are doing. I have a spool in my regal and drive it on the road, its just hard on tires. My friend drives his Jeep with a spool in the back too.
Is it DD type parts, no. Can you drive it on the road, yes. Just be careful in the rain.
Is it DD type parts, no. Can you drive it on the road, yes. Just be careful in the rain.
Maybe it was just about weight vs strength for a given diameter. Sorry for any confusion, happy to be corrected.
