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mud racer, updates - more video's

Looks like the truck ran good and nothing broke. Kinda hard to stay in the ruts as rough as the pit turned....looks alot like our usual pit. Was that a constistency class? And thanks for the vids!!
 
the black toyota with the cage bed had a 305 in it.


i run low range, always starting in 1st then shifting to second after i hit the rev limiter, trying to learn to shift quicker. i go by feel not gauges. the truck has a full manual reverse valve body with a gated shifter and i can go from 1st to 2nd and then back very easily.

maybe you guys can help me out with my gearing. i need more wheel speed. i'm pretty sure i have enough engine to pull higher gears but i wouldn't be using second gear as much.

i still need to shed some weight from my truck. i think the d60 is weighing me down. alot of the guys we race with are only running 10 bolts and d44 up front, mosty the same weight trucks but they don't lock them up. i'm locked front and rear. to go fast i need to stay on top of the the mud but it's a combination of wheel speed and light weight. i know of guys that run 3.55 gears and even lower, and they don't have as much engine.

i'm almost ready to swap out my d60 for a d44, i have a set to use with 3.42 (10 bolt and 14bff). i'd get them ready and with x-over to swap them.

i've been waiting to find some decent bedsides so i don't have to cut up my half decent bed, i want to just have the outer skins and make light cage work to hold them.
 
You have probably seen this but just in case .http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html .A great tool that lets you do a s/s comparison. I would think that 4.56 with 38's should be close to reach the desired wheel speed.

I have had good luck 10 bolt open and 12 bolt w/locker. I do believe the weight savings has helped and some of my competition has also swapped down.
 
I have 4.56 and run 38.5 x 11.5 boggers as my biggest tires.

Not very many people run d60's at our normal place.

I still have the rear drums
I have been thinking about converting one side to disk and nothing on the other side. Of course i was gonna remove the Detroit and weld up set of spiders to have brakes on both sides.
 
Fixed it for you so I can see them.

YZEATER said:
vids from sunday.



i hit 3rd gear and skimmed.

Click to expand...

Edit: nice runs, motor sounds nice. Especially when you get the Rs up.

I bet that made a mess! How are your engine panels working?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I haven't looked under the hood yet. My least favorite thing to do.
it cut down on the flinging mud though.

Thanks for fixing the vids. I gotta learn to do that.

I definitely got to work on lightening up the truck i soo close to the big block truck that beats me
 
Weight definitely makes a huge difference doesn't it. What exact tire do you run again? I was noticing after talking to a friend that my 36" TSL radials weigh 92 lbs each when I checked online. You can get 37" IROK radials that weigh 81 lbs each, or the 37" IROK bias plys weigh 68 lbs each, thats 24 lbs/tire! Almost 100 lbs of rotating unsprung mass is a lot!

As for the youtube videos, just take the youtube code only (not the whole web address), highlight it, and click on the youtube icon up near the image icon when you are creating your post.

Like this...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1908063#post1908063
 
For the 38" class i run 38.5 -11.50- 16 boggers on steel wheels. I run those for 3 classes.
 
Interesting idea on using a brake on just one side in the rear. I guess as long as you can get enough stopping force in it that would be fine, but you are cutting the clamping force in half.

Regarding wheels, it would be worth it to weigh your current steel wheels and compare them to some aluminum. Losing 10 lbs. of rotating mass would probably be the same as losing 100 lbs. in body weight.

I'd really be curious to know if the reduced weight of going to a front 10-bolt would make up for losing the front locker?? Heck, I would even see what the weight difference between the front 8-lug hub and rotors were vs. 6-lug versions.

For the gearing, it depends on how well you can pull 2nd and even 3rd with the current 4.56 gears. Going to 3.42's obviously gives you more wheel speed in 1st, but less than 2nd. Basically meaning if you regularly use 2nd gear than with the different gears you wouldn't have as much as wheelspeed by just staying in 1st and possibly couldn't pull 2nd (which would now be about the same as using 3rd gear).
 
How high will the motor turn? Where do you typically shift?

No disrespect intended but while the videos sound good it doesn't sound like you're using all the motor. I could be wrong and I'm just armchair quarterbacking. :dunno:

Do you have a stall converter? How big?

*If it's race only*, put that bitch on a diet! I would seriously consider cutting out all the extra weight and punching holes in whats left. If the interior has any more than a few gauges, a seat and harness get rid of it! If rules require it remain full body consider using a hole saw to trim weight off of it (inside walls of the door shells and bed). Maybe lower the lift - the resulting fender trim is also weight lost without drawing a lot of attention. I love 1 tons like the next guy but 1/2 tons and aluminum rims are savers too.
 
6.2Blazer said:
Interesting idea on using a brake on just one side in the rear. I guess as long as you can get enough stopping force in it that would be fine, but you are cutting the clamping force in half.

Regarding wheels, it would be worth it to weigh your current steel wheels and compare them to some aluminum. Losing 10 lbs. of rotating mass would probably be the same as losing 100 lbs. in body weight.

I'd really be curious to know if the reduced weight of going to a front 10-bolt would make up for losing the front locker?? Heck, I would even see what the weight difference between the front 8-lug hub and rotors were vs. 6-lug versions.

For the gearing, it depends on how well you can pull 2nd and even 3rd with the current 4.56 gears. Going to 3.42's obviously gives you more wheel speed in 1st, but less than 2nd. Basically meaning if you regularly use 2nd gear than with the different gears you wouldn't have as much as wheelspeed by just staying in 1st and possibly couldn't pull 2nd (which would now be about the same as using 3rd gear).
Click to expand...

it'll still have both front brakes, i think it should have enough braking power, still has hydroboost too. i thought about some aluminum wheels to save weight, i need to weigh my steel ones. i worry about hitting a wall or roack with an aluminum one and breaking it, rather then just bending a steel wheel.

as far as the gearing, it seems as if 2nd gear is a tad too high, if the mud is really thick, i have to run first gear, but don't get enough wheel speed.

if i can get rid of some rotating mass and lighten up the bed, i should be able to gain the little bit i need.
 
nvrenuf said:
How high will the motor turn? Where do you typically shift?

No disrespect intended but while the videos sound good it doesn't sound like you're using all the motor. I could be wrong and I'm just armchair quarterbacking. :dunno:

Do you have a stall converter? How big?

*If it's race only*, put that bitch on a diet! I would seriously consider cutting out all the extra weight and punching holes in whats left. If the interior has any more than a few gauges, a seat and harness get rid of it! If rules require it remain full body consider using a hole saw to trim weight off of it (inside walls of the door shells and bed). Maybe lower the lift - the resulting fender trim is also weight lost without drawing a lot of attention. I love 1 tons like the next guy but 1/2 tons and aluminum rims are savers too.
Click to expand...


the rev limiter is set at 6700 rpm. i have the shift light set about 6400rpm. i have been trying to shift sooner as it seems it pulls harder then letting it get reallly close to the limiter then shifting.

no disrepect taken, when my ass dyno feels it quits gaining speed or it hits the limiter i shift. it varies though, because of the mud and traction.

i have a stall convertor, i think it's around 4500, but in low range it gets about cut in half. when starting i also haven't been holding it against the convertor like last year. i'm not sure it i notice a difference that way, letting it build rpm's then letting off the brake.

this truck is 'race only' . no more street time. the lift is perfect for the places we race, it keeps the body and frame out of the mud early on in the day. i just got a 5 point harness and need to install my race seat( i still have a full bench). the cab is all gutted, no dash, all redone with minimal wiring.

after i gut the bed, i need to remove some more rear leaves and try to get some weight transfer and weight off the front axle.

with the 1-tons, i run it as hard as the engine allows, with no fear of smacking a wall and breaking an axle. a couple places have really rough bottomed pits, and i'd rather finish 100% of the time. gotta finish to win.
 
Have you considered swapping the t-case? The 208 is alot lighter and has taller gearing. Alum radiator, lexan, and change that seat!
 
YZEATER said:
the rev limiter is set at 6700 rpm. i have the shift light set about 6400rpm. i have been trying to shift sooner as it seems it pulls harder then letting it get reallly close to the limiter then shifting.

no disrepect taken, when my ass dyno feels it quits gaining speed or it hits the limiter i shift. it varies though, because of the mud and traction.

i have a stall convertor, i think it's around 4500, but in low range it gets about cut in half. when starting i also haven't been holding it against the convertor like last year. i'm not sure it i notice a difference that way, letting it build rpm's then letting off the brake.

this truck is 'race only' . no more street time. the lift is perfect for the places we race, it keeps the body and frame out of the mud early on in the day. i just got a 5 point harness and need to install my race seat( i still have a full bench). the cab is all gutted, no dash, all redone with minimal wiring.

after i gut the bed, i need to remove some more rear leaves and try to get some weight transfer and weight off the front axle.

with the 1-tons, i run it as hard as the engine allows, with no fear of smacking a wall and breaking an axle. a couple places have really rough bottomed pits, and i'd rather finish 100% of the time. gotta finish to win.
Click to expand...

Dammit man, you've got all the bases covered so I'm going to quit backseat driving. :rotfl: It's always hard to get good perspective from video for speed and sound (kind of like hill climbs never look as steep as they really are) but they are fun to watch. :thumb:

Good luck on the diet. Like said, maybe swapping in a lighter 208 (although the th400 tailshaft will be different) along with other mods will help trim some weight.
 
blueblazes44 said:
Have you considered swapping the t-case? The 208 is alot lighter and has taller gearing. Alum radiator, lexan, and change that seat!
Click to expand...

That's true, a 203 is a boat anchor, definitely the standout in your otherwise bitchin drivetrain. The 208 gearing is actually lower though (higher numerically) in low range, they are the same in high range.

A 205 would be lighter than the 203 with the same gearing and the most strength, but not as light as the 208 obviously, I am sure you know that.
 
nvrenuf said:
Dammit man, you've got all the bases covered so I'm going to quit backseat driving. :rotfl: It's always hard to get good perspective from video for speed and sound (kind of like hill climbs never look as steep as they really are) but they are fun to watch. :thumb:

Good luck on the diet. Like said, maybe swapping in a lighter 208 (although the th400 tailshaft will be different) along with other mods will help trim some weight.
Click to expand...

thank you for the insite, always looking for different ways of thinking of things to improve my times.


i have everything i need but time to swap out to a 205, the adapter and a spare th400 to steal the output shaft from. if i went to a 208 it would change my ratio's and i bet i would hit 3rd gear alot more, and give me the advantage to run 2nd gear all the time. and loose more weight.
 
folkenheath said:
That's true, a 203 is a boat anchor, definitely the standout in your otherwise bitchin drivetrain. The 208 gearing is actually lower though (higher numerically) in low range, they are the same in high range.

A 205 would be lighter than the 203 with the same gearing and the most strength, but not as light as the 208 obviously, I am sure you know that.
Click to expand...


i hate 203's, it's one of those things i just need to do, but keep putting it off. if i knew how to swap outputs i'd have done it already.
 
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