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My 5.3 swap thread!

y5mgisi

y5mgisi

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Joined
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Location
Portland Oregon
EDIT: Really need to edit this post as things have changed a bit along the way...

EDIT:Here is a link to the condenced version of this thread. TONS of info in this thread, but if you want it short and sweet, check out this link.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294573

Well, It looks like im going to be doing a 5.3 swap in my 1990 3/4ton 4x4 suburban. It will be a couple weeks before i actually start making purchases, so for now, im starting gather as many part numbers and as much info as i can to make the swap go as quickly as possible. So, so far here is what i got.

Got my computer tuned by eaglemark here on this board. PM him for details but lets just say he is good, and more than fair!

Harness i think i can modify with help from lt1swap.com . If it turns out real bad, i'll figure out who i should go with.



Motor mounts, CSP2370

http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/98457/CSP2370

Fuel pump, EP381 Delco# (E3270 Airtex #) = Flow = 50-60 GPH & PSI = 80-90

Flex plate spacer, 12563532

Flex plate spacer bolts, 12563533

Fuel filter/fittings,

Corvette fuel filter commonly used in OBS conversions if you are doing a returnless type fuel rail install....

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/ind...p;TempYear=2000

http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/2510_1.gif

Wix 33737 www.planetautoparts.com $37.93
GM 10299146
Purolator F55493
GF1822
Hastings GF336
PGF336
GKI GF1822

Connectors required to hook to the filter...
Dorman PNs

3/8" female connector DOR-800-121 www.midwayautosupply.com $7.36
5/16" female connector DOR-800-120 www.midwayautosupply.com $7.36
3/8" x 12" double ended male connector DOR-800-155 www.midwayautosupply.com $9.57
Click to expand...
Rear main seal if i so choose, 89060436

Oil cooler bypass block off which may be needed,

Oil bypass / blockoff plate that was previously Fbody PN 12553210 is now PN 12577903. The seal to fit the plate is PN 12553210.
Click to expand...
Still need to figure out how to get the speedo to work and if a tuner can program the computer to read the out put of my stock NP241 T-case. Also need to figure out of the three wire temp sensor will work with my truck.

This will be my spend-o-meter for the swap where i will try and document everything i spend money on. If ordered online the price will include shipping.

Motor, $1000
Motor mounts, $64.62
flex plate spacer and bolts, $74.86
fuel pump $75.95
temp sensor $28.29
oil pressure adapter $9.45
shipping for above three items $11.95
misc cleaning and shop supplies $40.00
Click to expand...
 
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89 was the last year of cable speedo. I plan on using the stock radiator. Should be plenty up to the task. And i plan on adding a fan just for A/C on use. The stock 5.3 fan should pull plenty of air for normal cooling.
 
Subscribed for furure reference:thumb: I'll be joining the 5.3 club with MY burb in the next year or so. Gotta love this site:D
 
Yea i wish! Unfortunately, I don't have quite that much money to work with. I think I should be able to be done and on the road for about $1500. It might cost a few hundred more then that but that's the stuff that i can steal a little out of my paychecks every two weeks to get. But yea, if I had a little more dough, I would be going through him.
 
Some things that matter I've learned in my 8.1 swap. Since you have the 90 suburban I believe you have the same fuel system I have. What year engine is this? Returnless or fuel return rails on the engine? If you have a return system you don't need the corvette regulator and your stock fuel filter is the exact same used on that truck which had the engine.

My 91 suburban has stainless steel braided lines connecting fuel lines to tank and from lines to engine. All I need buy is the fitting to adapt the setup to my new engine and of course fuel pump.
 
Doing the same swap on my 87 K5. I'm also in the parts collecting phase. What trans are you running? Have you thought about the Dirty Dingo engine mounts? That's what I'm going w/ I've heard good things.
 
Also doing this swap on my K5. Have the motor and am gathering parts. Those Dirty Dingo mounts look sweet!
 
I would have to ask teck about the dirty dingo mounts but xpndbl3 gave a good review to the car shop inc mounts.
 
I think these are the dirty dingo mounts teck used. They look good. A little different style then the car shop inc mounts. Also about double the price so I'm not quite sure if they are really worth it with the car shop ones already having a good review in here. But here they are anyway.

http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=1_206_305_318&products_id=1369

DD-2500-3.jpg
 
i used the dingo mounts on my 5.3 swap into my k5. they worked perfect.

2010014.jpg


i used a 4l60e tranny with this advanced adapters part
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-50-0405/

i like it cuz it gives you a place to put your VSS sensor.
2010006.jpg


fuel line parts
5/16" fuel injection return fitting, summit racing #640860
3/8" fuel injection pressure fitting, summit racing # 640-850
 
use earls or aeroquip fittings only, have had bad luck in our racing circle buying jegs, summit, "house" brand fittings. Also the car shops are "thee" choice for price/function. Done around 10 vehicles now with them, all bolted up 100% in the stock location for the trans to bolt to the bellhousing.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the info! So in other words, you didn't have to move the trans location? And right/ clearence was all good?
 
Trans pan sat on 2x12s stacked REALLY high on my truck the entire swap lol. Dropped the new motor back into the chassis, tightened up the bellhousing bolts and torque converter bolts, then shoved in the motor mount bolts and called it a day. Same location, same driveshafts, same everything. I suppose if your mounts are really shot you might have crossmember clearance issues near the front of the oil pan, but I have plenty of clearance. I've seen some pics where the $12 rubber mounts look like death and the motor is probably sitting on the metal clamshells instead of the rubber mounts entirely. Just inspect yours when you pull the engine. My stockers were still perfect, probably from that weak weak weak! 350tbi compared to this new engine ;)
 
Subscribed! For future reference.

That link to the vendor in Reno looks pretty darn good.
 
I think I'm going to give the car shop inc ones a try. Half price for something that works just as well sounds fine to me. I'll give a report when I get them installed. It's looking like late next week I'll start buying stuff and then whatever engine I come across that I'm most happy with I'll buy. Their are three at a local junk yard right now that I have my eye on. I think I'm going to go down there and see which one is most complete and take it.
 
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