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My 5.3 swap thread!

Also remember with all these plates that you need to grind one of the ribs off the engine block a little to ensure the plate sits flush, took about 30 seconds with my 4.5" grinder and a flat disk.
 
BBC said:
i used the dingo mounts on my 5.3 swap into my k5. they worked perfect.

2010014.jpg


i used a 4l60e tranny with this advanced adapters part
http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-50-0405/

i like it cuz it gives you a place to put your VSS sensor.
2010006.jpg


fuel line parts
5/16" fuel injection return fitting, summit racing #640860
3/8" fuel injection pressure fitting, summit racing # 640-850
Click to expand...

This is the set up I'm going with hope to have it all installed in the next couple of week if I get the tranny back. It is being built and having the output shaft install to bolt up to my 205. I got a new gas tank with baffles, sending unit '87 and up K% from Classic Parts. I also am using the six corvette filter because I have a returnless fuel line. Got Earl fitting at the tank and russell fitting at motor and filter from Summit
 
Don't forget the engine crossmember, if you plan on useing a truck oil pan.I went from a OffRoad Design to a Twisted Engineering one just for clearance. And, truck manifolds will not work very well on the righthand side. More advice, read my build thread:D
 
I've been told with the dirty dingo mount everything should clear the crossmember. Will know this week after i get my engine leveler from Northern Tool, will be doing a test fit on the motor, before bolting the tranny to it for install. I'm going with S&P headers they are the only ones I have found that are suppose to fit without have to grind anything.
 
Yea and xpndbl3 says the car shop ones clear it all also. I suspect it has to do with what mounts you buy.
 
Just got a 5.3L LM7 up and running in a 92 Jeep Commanche today! Let me know if you have any wiring questions with your swap :D
 
Antone have any info on the VSS working with the computer and speedo? I assume i need to tap the vss into the new ecm harness and then i guess it has a gauge output that i need to use to tap into the original speedo wires?
 
Yup, pretty much...

Take the two VSS wires and feed them into the PCM. The PCM then has a pulsed ground output for the speedometer. You'll need to install a pull up resistor to make it into the 12V pulse that the speedometer is looking for. You will not need to change the frequency of the output signal, it is the same as your burb is now.
 
Thanks Russell! I'll have to do more research on this pull up resistor. Also need to track down some tbi wiring diagrams to see where I should tap into the speedo signal wire.
 
i wouldn't trust those repair kit lines, do it the way I did with -6 fittings and adapter fittings ran to the passenger side near the trans where the factory braided lines screwed on. Much safer and less likely to fail from heat or rubbing and cause a massive fire
 
I think i have everything pretty well squared away except the speedo and cruise wiring. Pretty tricky to search for wiring specific to speedo and cruise on a 90 burb!
 
Not as tricky as you may think... If you are installing a 04+ 5.3L, throw that old burb cruise control away. The Gen III engine has it built in from the factory. It is all controlled via the TAC module. Connecting it is simple.

Hook pin 4 on the TAC module to a momentary switch that turns on 12V when pressed as the set / coast button.
Hook pin 5 to a momentary switch that turns on 12V when pressed as the resume / accelerate button.
Hook pin 6 to your brake light wire so 12V is turned on when you press the brakes
Hook pin 14 to a switch that turns on 12V to activate the cruise system
And hook a wire up to pin 33 on the blue connector up to a wire that turns off 12V to the PCM when you press the brakes (you may need to install a relay for this, note is it NOT the same as the wire on Pin 6 of the TAC module, it is opposite. When one is 12V the other is off and vice versa)

Voila, cruise control is working.

If you get an older 5.3L with a drive by cable setup then you will need to supply a 4K speed signal to the cruise control. You may be able to splice into the speedometer sense wire to make it work. It'll operate like stock at that point.

The speedo wiring is also easy. Buy a 5000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor and hook one side up to the PCM on the green connector pin 50 with the other side hooked up to a ignition voltage source (pink or pink/black wire). Hook the speedometer's input up between the resistor and the PCM.

When the PCM has the ground switched open, the speedometer will see roughly 12V. When the PCM closes the ground switch, the speedometer sees roughly 0V. This gives the 0 - 12V signal that the speedometer looks for.

Same deal with using a factory tach with the gen III engines. Note that most aftermarket tachs can use a switched ground signal as well as a 12V square wave like factory tachs and that the gen III PCM puts out a 4 cylinder tach signal.
 
Very interesting stuff! Thanks alot! I think it will help alot once i actually have the stuff in my hands. Right now just trying to visualize it all is kinda tough. None the less i think i will get it figured out with the help of people on here and a couple other boards! So, i was reading this about the cruise. Does this apply to me? Or is this just for the newer guys? Sounds like some strange way of easily making everything work. BTW, Its looking like im going to get an 02 5.3 out of a tahoe.

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-...93-obs-speedometer-cruise-control-wiring.html
 
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xpndbl3 said:
i wouldn't trust those repair kit lines, do it the way I did with -6 fittings and adapter fittings ran to the passenger side near the trans where the factory braided lines screwed on. Much safer and less likely to fail from heat or rubbing and cause a massive fire
Click to expand...

Dang i have nack for missing your posts! Dangit! Anyway, do you happen to have the part numbers you used?
 
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