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My '70 C/10 - The Rat Bastard... [Won't Idle.]

- The distributor is used, so anythings possible.
But, its really clean and looks almost new.

- I checked the fuel after it died, as Paul said to.... But, the gas worked.
Also, the filter is clean, and the pump flows as it should.
Which makes it NOT a fuel issue, right?

- Im thinking I may have an Ignition issue.

- Gotta pick up a Voltmeter... As mine was stolen.
 
You're running mechanical choke? If so it needs fiddling with as the engine warms up a little. Should be nearly closed at cold start up, and you should be opening it slowly as it warms up. If you have it set pretty closed when you first start it, it will eventually warm up and die unless you adjust it a little.
 
Does your carb have an electric choke or older style stovepot type (bimetalic coil and linkage on the manifold) As Rene' says, the choke blade should just close when cold, not warm, but cold... as in less than ~50* engine temp. The tension on that plate should close it tightly, but just close it. It should snap shut if cold, but when the engine is started it should crack open a bit.
When you pump the carb on cold start up, that plate should close with the first pump of the acc pedal (all the way to the floor) and also the acc pump will give it a shot of fuel into the primary throttle bores, give it a second pump to provide a little more fuel, then start it....A choke pull off (a small vacuum can mounted to the carb) will immediately open the choke plate about 3/16" to allow airflow into the engine, and running on a rich mixture allow the engine to warm up quickly. When the engine runs for a couple minutes the electric choke coil will expand (needs a 12v ignition supplied power source) and open that choke plate up even more, until it the engine gets warmed up >100* and the choke plate should be fully open by then. A quick blip of the throttle will allow the engine rpm to come down to warm idle setting.
 
My alternator doesnt seem to be charging...
Im thinking its dropping the battery below 12v.
Thus, Killing the HEI.

I need to get a multi-meter on it, and see whats up.
 
Doubtful. I drove my K5 at night for well over 50 miles with a dead alt, I only stopped because I finally found a place that was well lit and not on the side of the highway, but by then my headlights were so dim I may as well have turned em off. Truck was still running though.
 
what Rene said.. you'd be surprised how long motors will run without charging.... takes quite awhile for it to suck a battery below 10 volts... and that's when you'll start having issues... will it crank right after it dies?

that truck was not HEI originally... did you determine if there was a resistor wire? ..
 
I THINK I FIGURED IT OUT!!!!!!!! :woot:


Okay....

When using an MSD box, you replace the ICM (in the dizzy) w/ the MSD itself.
In my half-witted confusion, I was assuming the "BATT" wire everyone was reffering to,
Was the "B+" wire that connects the Coil to the MSD box... That was wrong.

Therein lay my issue....

There is currently NO wire to my HEI "BATT" terminal.... The one next to the tach.
The one that needs a +12v Ign. Switched source, to run the HEI. :doah:

I also read that the CS Alternators have a fail safe, that prevents them from overcharging.
Im guessing this is kicking in immediately, with NO power to the Hei.

Essentially, the ONLY thing running my truck was the MSD.
This is causing the Alt to not turn on, which in turn drops the Bat Voltage,
Which kills the MSD, which kills the motor... I think.
 
No resistor in the wire.... Its an EZ-21, but its irrelevant because:

1- that wire doesnt go to the HEI power.
2- the HEI has no power wire, cuz im stupid.
 
does it run now?

I was gonna suggest checking the carb, but you had the old guy go through it...

on Q-jets the float level is real critical.
 
Nope.... I put a 12v switched source to the BAT connector.
Now, it runs even less!!!! :doah:


It just fires, then quits IMMEDIATELY.

Not 15 seconds of run time, like before.... Just fire>stop.
 
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I think it's that dumb msd box. Gave you issues with the k5 too. Just run 12v to the hei dist straight from the ign on and run it
 
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