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My "body work" thread.

y5mgisi

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So the trim on the blazer is appearntly held on with stiky tape with the exception of one clip on either end. My trim had pealed away from the body taking some paint with it. As a result, rust has started bleeding out from behinde the trim. This is a thread that will contain all my future body work. This is where it will start.

All im trying to do for the time being is fix the bad spots as the whole blazer needs a paint job in the not too distand future. So here's what i am up against,

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So i decided it would be best to tape off the affected area so that i wouldnt hurt the sruounding good paint when i sanded.

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And then i started sanding. This is what im left with.

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At this point what i need to know is how to treat the heavy pits. Can i just use some rust encapsulator or converter?

After i treat the pits, im thinking just some ryoken green and then some high build primer. After that just some approximately color matched color and i should be flying high until i actually paint the whole truck.
 
Sandblast the spots to get the pits. Should have left the tape on lol.
 
Bagh. Why wouldn't I think of sand blasting! Thanks Adam. Initially I took the tape off to clean the residue from the tape where I dragged it into the work area with the sander. Oh well, I can always re tape it!
 
Lol. Also that Fast Etch stuff from eastwood. iUsed on my floor really seems to eat rust like that.
 
Bagh. Why wouldn't I think of sand blasting! Thanks Adam. Initially I took the tape off to clean the residue from the tape where I dragged it into the work area with the sander. Oh well, I can always re tape it!
well either sandblast it or wire brush it so the rust inside the pits can get out and you'l be left with enough that a rust converter would treat it right.
Obviously sand blasting would pretty much remove all the rust, but if that is not an option rust converters work very well when used properly, as in no rust flakes left just solid steel with rust on the outer layer, the converters don't work too deep.
 
So do I just yank it off? It seems like its double walled there from the inside. Or if I remove the tail light or inside panel can I get to it?
 
On my 89 there is a shield on the inside lip that can be unbolted. You may be able to jam your arm up there to get to it.
 
So do I just yank it off? It seems like its double walled there from the inside. Or if I remove the tail light or inside panel can I get to it?
well technically you can but you will damage it and the truck, it's a little tight but you can access it through a hole in the inside wall, they might be actually the tin washer like someone else mentionned, I remember it was flimsy but wouldn't easily pop, so I had to remove it from the inside of the fender.
 
I wiggled my Cheyenne emblems off it was a pain but I didn't damage them, the paint already sucked so no worry there. It took a while but I could not get those stupid half push pin half nut half washer things off.

The only true way to get the pits is blasting. I have tried alot of different methods and the only way to truly get all the rust out is blasting
 
I popped the emblems off my 72 with a plastic putty knife, went in at various angles and wiggled it around........man, did anyone else just get horny :haha::haha:
 
On my oem quarter you can get in there through the tail light receptacle because it can be unbolted....on the new quarters they are welded together...no way you will get in there:


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Are you going to use the wire brush method or blaster method? I have the same problem with rust around my trim areas also.
 
if you don't blast them you won't get all of it out of those pits...I'd be worried it would come back...especially if I spent a bunch of time on it and then put a nice paint job on it. Wire brush gets most of it but you can still tell it's in the bottom of the pits...I just didn't want to chance it...because I don't ever want to have to do this again....blast it and you can see the shiny metal in the pits...you know you got it...
 

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