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My build Using 6.5 turbo parts on a 6.2 (now with pics)

protechk5

protechk5

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Well I am adding a stock 6.5 turbo on my 85 m1008. So far I have the turbo, both exhaust manifolds, upper/lower intake, stock crossover and down pipe. I wanted to try and use the stock crossover and not make one. So I'm using the 6.5 driver side manifold and already ran into a problem. The slave cylinder is in the way, well the hose to be exact, right where the hose connects. Im going to mess with it tomorrow more and get some pics.
 
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I'm assuming the M1008 is no longer an auto? What tranny are you running? Your front driveshaft will also interfere with the stock crossover btw . . . .
 
Wrench said:
I'm assuming the M1008 is no longer an auto? What tranny are you running? Your front driveshaft will also interfere with the stock crossover btw . . . .
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Yeah I swapped in a 465 a few years ago. Its also lifted, I have 52's up front and I wont have much up travel at all, most all droop. I started to swap the intake manifold in last night.
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Heres where its going to come close to the slave cylinder, I put the bleeder valve on the side, and the hose on the top, that will give me some more room.

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And heres my new 1410 square front shaft
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Ok few questions. Do I need to run my vacuum pump? I dont use it and would like to just add a block off plate. But I think I read before that the shaft drives the oil pump too? If thats true how does the 6.5 run without it? Also which cylinder is which? The intake manifold is labelled but it will go on either way.
 
protechk5 said:
Ok few questions. Do I need to run my vacuum pump? I dont use it and would like to just add a block off plate. But I think I read before that the shaft drives the oil pump too? If thats true how does the 6.5 run without it? Also which cylinder is which? The intake manifold is labelled but it will go on either way.
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I don't know about the vacuum pump being needed, I had a 6.2 in a 1 ton that had a block off plate.
As for #1 cylinder is the same as any V8 it's the first one on your right if you are facing the truck.
 
You need the block off plate and drive guts related to it to get rid of the vac pump. Should look like the bottom half of a distributor with a gear being driven off the end of the cam, and a slot for the oil pump drive. You only need the vac pump if you have AC, as that is the only thing vac operated on a diesel pick-up. I have a 6.2 here with the block off plate instead of the pump...

There should be only one way to bolt up that intake that'll have #1 oriented towards the front, so I'd put it on that way. Also, those lugs at the one end probably interfere with the IP and stuff if you put it on backwards.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
You need the block off plate and drive guts related to it to get rid of the vac pump. Should look like the bottom half of a distributor with a gear being driven off the end of the cam, and a slot for the oil pump drive. You only need the vac pump if you have AC, as that is the only thing vac operated on a diesel pick-up. I have a 6.2 here with the block off plate instead of the pump...
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Stricly speaking, it isn't a "block-off plate", it is actually an oil pump drive module. It just happens that all you see on top is... nothing :D Line Rene said, the rest looks like the bottom half of a dizzy, except 6.x's dont use a slot, they have a hex drive. Also, the same module is available with an RPM pickup in the top of it. Instead of a blank top it pops up a bit and has a weatherpack plug on it.
 
MaxPF said:
Also, the same module is available with an RPM pickup in the top of it. Instead of a blank top it pops up a bit and has a weatherpack plug on it.
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What trucks did that come off of? That sounds super easy for adding a tach.
 
Does the vaccum pump with the ESS produce the same 4 pulse per crank revolution signal?

I thought I saw someone mention that it is a variable voltage sawtooth waveform, does it roughly break down to 4 pulses per revolution that vary in voltage based on the engine speed?
 
Russell said:
Does the vaccum pump with the ESS produce the same 4 pulse per crank revolution signal?

I thought I saw someone mention that it is a variable voltage sawtooth waveform, does it roughly break down to 4 pulses per revolution that vary in voltage based on the engine speed?
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They both have the same ESS. It has an 8 tooth reluctor in it, so it gives 4 pulses per crank rev (it's driven off the cam, so it runs at 1/2 crank speed). It's just a regular variable reluctance type speed sensor, so each output pulse is a single cycle roughly sinusoidal pulse that varies in amplitude with engine speed - more speed=high amplitude (voltage). Normally that is fed into an amplifier (really a signal conditioner) to turn the variable voltage pulse into a 12V square wave pulse suitable for driving a regular ignition-driven tach. If you're a DIY type with electronics it is a simple circuit to build. Supposedly there are places that make them, but I haven't really looked around for one...
 
That is really handy to know -- I haven't met anyone who was able to tell me exactly how that little sensor worked before :D All I knew was that it made a sawtooth waveform, but I had no idea how it related back to the engine's frequency

I've actually built a little transistor circuit before to condition the signal to a square wave, but it seemed inaccurate. That could very well have been the cheap tach though, haha
 
Russell said:
That is really handy to know -- I haven't met anyone who was able to tell me exactly how that little sensor worked before :D All I knew was that it made a sawtooth waveform, but I had no idea how it related back to the engine's frequency

I've actually built a little transistor circuit before to condition the signal to a square wave, but it seemed inaccurate. That could very well have been the cheap tach though, haha
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Well, if you are electronics-savvy enough to build a transistor circuit, then you are good to go. Just use one of these instead. Much simpler :D
 
MaxPF said:
Well, if you are electronics-savvy enough to build a transistor circuit, then you are good to go. Just use one of these instead. Much simpler :D
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That's an easy one.
It's been years since i tinkered with electronics but I was building an FM radio when I was 13 yo, it was a two way transmitter/ reciever.:D
 
imiceman44 said:
That's an easy one.
It's been years since i tinkered with electronics but I was building an FM radio when I was 13 yo, it was a two way transmitter/ reciever.:D
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Yup, the IC makes it super easy and cheap to build a circuit to drive a tach. All that is needed besides the IC is a small 3 terminal 5V regulator to power the IC and an output transistor, either NPN bipolar or N-channel MOSFET, in a common emitter/source configuration with the collector/drain tied to +12V through a suitable resistor to act as an output buffer, and a few resistors and caps. This would output a grounded pulse that would mimic the signal at an ignition coil. Piece of cake. I bet it could be built for under twenty bucks :D
 
I found a oil pump drive with the rpm sensor and the guy says he doesnt know what its worth make an offer. I have no idea either, any ideas of what they go for?
 
Ok so I knew there are clearance problems with the passenger side manifold with the injectors. Mine clears the injectors but the rubber return lines rest on the manifold. Im thinking I can just either loosen or tighten the injectors so that the return lines are parallel to the ground. I dont know if I will be able to turn them a 1/4 a turn without them being too tight or too loose, I dont have a big enough socket yet. Any body have any ideas? Maybe I can just get right angle ends for them. Or could I just wrap the lines with something? Worst comes to worst I have a plasma cutter that I could cut a spacer for head and manifold but I would be worry about it sealing.


Here a pic, its just those 3 injectors that need to be turned.
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F... Just broke one of the bolts on the top cover of the ip. Im also going to reuse the driver side manifold, the 6.5 one is going to be too much of a PIA with the slave cylinder. The 6.2 one is only like a 2" output, hopefully that wont make that much difference.
 
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Too bad i didnt wait a month to put the starter brace in. It would had been 10x easier with the manifold off.

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