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My Dana 60 buildup thread :)

stallion85

stallion85

1/2 ton status
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Well I started on my quest for the Dana 60 swap tonight by dropping the front axle out of my M1008 to put in my K5. I also received my high steer setup from WFO:D Should have both axles under the K5 before the 4th of July, wish me luck....lol

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Cool, you scored a M1008. I guess maybe I missed any post you might have made about scoring that. Did you get it from Nellis? I am thinking of buying a 3/4-ton 4X4 suburban, and swaping all the running gear from my 1-ton dually onto it (dually wheels/rear fenders and all) for a project in the future. Good luck on that dana-60 swap, I am sure you have done all the research on that swap, so it should go reasonbly well.
 
Right now I am cleaning the axle for paint and it is wearing me out in this heat.
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Tell me about it! I have been waiting until 22 hundred hours, and work to about 2-AM, to do any projects on my trucks currently.

You should go with studs on the right side of your Dana-60, instead of bolts. There is a place called McFaden-Dales Industrial Hardware on Reno Ave. (just off of Arville), which has 8-grade studs, with fine thread on one side and course on the other, so you can run a tall 8-grade fine thread nut on it.
 
I picked up a set of studs from WFO, they just didn't make it in the photo:)

My bud said McFadens is the POO, but it's quite drive from base. I will be going there for some shock tabs and spring perches in the near future.......
 
1-ton, I found it on Craigslist for sale here in Vegas. $1500 about a month or so ago. Right now I am cleaning the axle for paint and it is wearing me out in this heat. The oil pan leaks pretty bad so the axle is covered in oil mixed with dirt

Here's the link to the M1008......http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174564
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Can't believe anyone missed that thread. :wink1:

Good luck! :thumb:
 
Got some work done today. Primered and painted the housing, tubes, and knuckles. I am getting a new HD diff cover so I didn't bother painting the stock one. Plis I am pulling the rotors and am going to paint the hubs and calipers seperate. I also added my WFO High steer arms, pretty easy job, but it was so damned hot I was pounding beers and enjoying some country music while I put them on. This is my way of relaxing:D

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And some more....with a little help from my 2 yr old cleaning out some gasket shavings in the kingpin with a Q tip:D

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Did you already put it together? The arms that is? From the look of the RTV you did... Anyway, did you shim the spring? Too much RTV, you'll be hating it if you ever have to take it apart and clean it. I got to the point I don't even add any sealant there anymore. Of course my water exposure is very far and few between.
 
I used no shims at first like the instructions said. There was a lot of up and down slop so I used 2 shims the second time. I thought about the RTV thing and thought it's only holding grease in there, but since there was a gasket I figured it would'nt hurt. Plus I think the RTV will be a lot easier than removing those 22 year old paper gaskets.....took 3 beers to get those damned things scraped off.

With the 2 shims there is no slop in the up and down and the knuckles have resistance when you turn them like the instructions said so I feel pretty good about the setup. We will see, my rig is a trailer queen so it won't see any speeds above 40 MPH....
 
Also, Fred a few friends in my club are going to BB with me this year and I wanted to see if we could run with you AZ guys. Shoot me a PM and we can hash out the details.

Thanks :)
 
Gotcha. I didn't know they make a gasket for that, never used one. Just a thin, very thin, coat of RTV around the edge. You'll know right away when you hit your first big bump at say around 20 MPH if the shims are good enough :).
 
I picked up a set of studs from WFO, they just didn't make it in the photo:)

My bud said McFadens is the POO, but it's quite drive from base. I will be going there for some shock tabs and spring perches in the near future.......
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That is good. The problem with bolts is they can bottom out before they tighten the U-Bolt plate, and you will not know it. I tighten my dana-60 studs to 100 Foot pounds without any problem. Yea, Mcfadens has has just about any supply a machinest or metal worker could ever want.
 
1-ton said:
Tell me about it! I have been waiting until 22 hundred hours, and work to about 2-AM, to do any projects on my trucks currently.

You should go with studs on the right side of your Dana-60, instead of bolts. There is a place called McFaden-Dales Industrial Hardware on Reno Ave. (just off of Arville), which has 8-grade studs, with fine thread on one side and course on the other, so you can run a tall 8-grade fine thread nut on it.
Click to expand...

I thought you were referring to studs for the steering arm. I re read your post and now see you are talking about the spring perch, correct?

I wonder how many others are having to do the studs? Thanks for the heads up, I will pick a set up at Mcfadens:D
 
Well today I pulled the hubs off and repacked the bearings, inspected the spindles and lockouts. Everything is in good shape so I just cleaned and regreased it all and re-assembled. The brake pads are new so the calipers just got a shot of some high temp flat black paint:)
 
man... your build is sooo much easier than my 60 i just got.. haha lucky folk w/ no rust!
 
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