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My first lift kit

clutch2k3

clutch2k3

1/2 ton status
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This kit will fit my 89 Blazer, right? (RC says it will, amazon says it wont, ebay and summit don't say anything): https://www.roughcountry.com/product/gm-suspension-lift-kit-235-88-92-20

AFAIK for only a 2" lift I'm not concerned with extending driveaxles, longer brake lines, crossover steering or anything like that, right? Does anybody think I might need something else that's not included in that RC kit to finsih the project?

TIA
 
A 2” lift won’t require other mods, that typically starts at 4” lift.

Know this; Rough Country has been around forever so it’s a legit brand BUT it is also widely recognized as one of the most harsh riding kits on the market.
 
clutch2k3 said:
This kit will fit my 89 Blazer, right? (RC says it will, amazon says it wont, ebay and summit don't say anything): https://www.roughcountry.com/product/gm-suspension-lift-kit-235-88-92-20

AFAIK for only a 2" lift I'm not concerned with extending driveaxles, longer brake lines, crossover steering or anything like that, right? Does anybody think I might need something else that's not included in that RC kit to finsih the project?

TIA
Click to expand...


Hey bud, not trying to discourage you, just inviting you to do your homework about RC...

Here are some recent quotes from another thread where they're discussing use of their products.

"so many people fall in to the cheapest lift = rough country and don't do home work for a few bucks more it can ride so much better ."

"Has anyone kept track of all of the times Rough Country has been bashed on this site?
:haha:
".
 
I’ve had RC front springs on two of my rigs for over a decade. There is no doubt they are the stiffest springs on the market. They didn’t even drop an inch when I went from a 5.3 to a 8.1 big block.

If that’s all the budget allows, it works. I never had a failure in the springs. Shocks are typical lift kit twin tubes that are nothing special. I put up with the ride for a long time because it was all I could afford to do so I get the idea that it’s the lowest cost alternative to not lifting at all.

That being said I still switched to skyjacker softride springs up from on mine and they are much better than my RC front springs ever were. There are even better springs from Tuff country and even better custom units from ORD/alcan. But each of those kicks the price up considerably.

I suggest doing a little research beyond the RC and see what fits your budget. If you still go RC for price it’s ok, just go in knowing what you are getting. I just wish they sent a big rubber band in the kit. That way you could hold your jaw in place on washboard roads after installing the kit. (Joking….)
 
The best way to lift is to not buy a kit. All square body kits suck and most are the same things they were selling out of the back of magazines 30 years ago. The only question is how bad each brand sucks relatively. The best "kit" you can buy is to have ORD piece it together for you, or you can piece it together yourself.

For the back, do a 2.5" shackle flip and keep your stock springs. https://www.offroaddesign.com/catal...for-73-91-gm-square-body-trucks/category/487/

For the front, bare minimum is the Tuff Country EZ-ride. It's probably 2x as good as RC and probably the softest off-the-shelf. The best way is custom, which is probably 4x better than TC: https://www.offroaddesign.com/ord-lift-custom-front-springs.html. The statements "you get what you pay for" and "buy once, cry once" apply here.

Skip all lift kit brand shocks (most of them are basically Gabriel twin-tubes) and go with Bilstein monotubes.

Why do all the work and have it ride like crap when you're done?
 
To answer your question yes that kit will fit your 89 k5. For 2" you do not have to do any steering link mods. You will need to adjust the drag link when the truck is on the ground with full weight. The brake line do not technically need to changed, but GM soft lines of this age are going to fail soon if not already.
I would change them to something with added length, for piece of mind.

I also agree with everything said above, RC will work but like a buckboard. No drinking coffee while the truck is moving.
 
So my experience with RC has been equally disappointing but in a different way….I bought the 2” lift and the sprigs sagged almost instantly and never sat level (left to right). I replaced them with zone 4” springs up front and pro comps in the rear. I admit this was the first time I had an issue with RC sprigs sagging, and the others are right, on other trucks I’ve used them on you aren’t drinking coffee while driving
 
joshuak said:
Hey bud, not trying to discourage you, just inviting you to do your homework about RC...

Here are some recent quotes from another thread where they're discussing use of their products.

"so many people fall in to the cheapest lift = rough country and don't do home work for a few bucks more it can ride so much better ."

"Has anyone kept track of all of the times Rough Country has been bashed on this site?
:haha:
".
Click to expand...
I know that member quoted . :D

87 ish up went metric bushings on square body so this might be why kit says wont fit .

Any one of us members can built you a GREAT list to buy for a great combo .
 
Blue85 said:
The best way to lift is to not buy a kit. All square body kits suck and most are the same things they were selling out of the back of magazines 30 years ago. The only question is how bad each brand sucks relatively. The best "kit" you can buy is to have ORD piece it together for you, or you can piece it together yourself.

For the back, do a 2.5" shackle flip and keep your stock springs. https://www.offroaddesign.com/catal...for-73-91-gm-square-body-trucks/category/487/

For the front, bare minimum is the Tuff Country EZ-ride. It's probably 2x as good as RC and probably the softest off-the-shelf. The best way is custom, which is probably 4x better than TC: https://www.offroaddesign.com/ord-lift-custom-front-springs.html. The statements "you get what you pay for" and "buy once, cry once" apply here.

Skip all lift kit brand shocks (most of them are basically Gabriel twin-tubes) and go with Bilstein monotubes.

Why do all the work and have it ride like crap when you're done?
Click to expand...

I was hoping to just buy a kit without doing a lot of research but y'all have talked me out of buying the RC kit. The Blazer is for the family so it has to ride decent.

I'm going to call ORD tomorow and see if they can help me out. Id like to compare prices between the OTS EZ-ride springs and custom springs.

I think i need to figure out specific part numbers for these items:
- rear shackle flip
- bushing replacements for the stock rear springs
- Rear shocks
- front springs
- front shocks

Thanks for the great advice all!
 
clutch2k3 said:
I was hoping to just buy a kit without doing a lot of research but y'all have talked me out of buying the RC kit. The Blazer is for the family so it has to ride decent.

I'm going to call ORD tomorow and see if they can help me out. Id like to compare prices between the OTS EZ-ride springs and custom springs.

I think i need to figure out specific part numbers for these items:
- rear shackle flip
- bushing replacements for the stock rear springs
- Rear shocks
- front springs
- front shocks

Thanks for the great advice all!
Click to expand...


They have a good web site too IMO.

https://www.offroaddesign.com/1973-1991-custom-spring-lift.html

Post up what you get and how you go about putting it in!
 
You wont find a better riding spring than ORDs Alcans. Make sure to change out your front upper shackle bushings as well, great time to upgrade shackles with ORDs.
 
Thanks again!

Updated parts list i need to determine specific part numbers for:
- rear shackle flip
- bushing replacements for the stock rear springs
- Rear shocks
- front springs (ez ride, custom, Alcans?)
- bushings for front springs?
- front upper shackle bushings
- new front shackles?
- front shocks

ORD's site is great but I've never bought or installed a lift before so I'm getting lost in the sauce once I start clicking around.

BTW I have watched a few videos on bushing replacement and shackle flips so I think I understand the basics of those but I'm still not 100% sure on what exactly to purchase.

Also, I measured my garage door and determined I wouldn't be able to get the blazer through it with more than a 2" lift without deflating the tires and I don't have a spare set of wheels for small diameter tires either. Getting it into the garage is important to me.
 
Some things to consider....

A shackle flip is a way of lifting, if you get lift springs in the rear you wont need a shackle flip or vice versa. They can be combined but usually only to lift more than 4" (ie a 2" shackle flip and 2" springs = 4" total lift.

If you get new rear springs you wont need bushings because they will already have them.

Bilstein shocks are the way to go.

Front lift springs will have bushings already

FUSH bushings are available from ORD

Call ORD and talk to them, they love to talk to trucks and can answer any question you have.

If I was only going 2" I would do a shackle flip in the rear (2.5" from ord), 2" skyjacker front springs from ORD with new frame side shackle bushings, Bilstein shocks and a nice set of 33s.
 
Blue85 said:
What gears are in the axles?
Click to expand...
3.42 maybe? "1235128 12 42 9 88" is stamped on both ring gears.

Chickntrk said:
Some things to consider....

A shackle flip is a way of lifting, if you get lift springs in the rear you wont need a shackle flip or vice versa. They can be combined but usually only to lift more than 4" (ie a 2" shackle flip and 2" springs = 4" total lift.

If you get new rear springs you wont need bushings because they will already have them.

Bilstein shocks are the way to go.

Front lift springs will have bushings already

FUSH bushings are available from ORD

Call ORD and talk to them, they love to talk to trucks and can answer any question you have.

If I was only going 2" I would do a shackle flip in the rear (2.5" from ord), 2" skyjacker front springs from ORD with new frame side shackle bushings, Bilstein shocks and a nice set of 33s.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all this great info!! I want to leave stock springs in the rear with a 2" shackle flip, I want bilstein shocks but would like to know how much they're going to cost before I pull the trigger, good to know new springs come with bushings, and it already has brand new 33" KO2's (got a reverse mortgage to pay for them).
 
got the quote back from ORD.

I think all of these parts are "required", correct?
- $460 - 2" Front Skyjacker Springs '73-'87(91) GM, pair
- $33 - Main Eye Spring Bushing Kit for Superlift/Skyjacker Front Springs
- $225 - Shackle flip kit, 2-1/2" lift
- $220 - (pair) Bilstein 5125 shock, 8.13" travel
- $220 - (pair) Bilstein 5125 shock, 10" travel

Which of these parts are "required" or "should have" or "nice to have"?
- $120 - Heavy Duty Front Shackle Kit, Greasable - Kevlar
- $200 - 4-1/2" HD Rear Super Shackles with Greasable Rear Spring Bushing Kit, 1-1/2" Spring Eyes
- $50 - Ubolt kit
- $99 - 1/2 T Ubolt Reverse Kit for 3" Axle Tube, 10-1/2" UBolts
- $112 - Vehicle brakeline kit
- $115 - Sway bar Correction and Disconnect System

ORD charges shipping no matter how much is spent, right? (shipping would be $250)
 
You won’t need brake lines at 2”…..

Rear shackles aren’t a “must” but if yours are rough the ORD ones are nice.

If you’re only do a shackle flip on the rear you won’t need rear u bolts
 
The HD front are nice, and .5" ? longer. That .5" help keep the spring from smacking the frame. The factory ones are a little wimpy.

20210502_144811_Film1.jpg
stock on my 77
 
Greasable bolts are a nice add, not required. The sway bar disconnect is a good item, but more for the fact it corrects the sway bar angle on the taller springs so the bar works correctly.

The front shackles are a nice item and depending on the condition of yours you might need them. ORD’s are super beefy.
 
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