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My full conversion

Pulled the oil pan today to see how bad it was. Needless to say I need a new motor. Almost a 1/4” of metal shavings on the bottom of the pan. Looking to get a blueprinted crate engine if the price is right.
 
It was quite the feat to get that truck off the trailer and in the car port. But nothing a tree, truck and chain couldn't handle. Then pulled it inside with the jeep.



Heres the motor




Yanked the hood off




Couple pics of the motor






Think I'm gonna rig up something to the rafters and use a chainfall to pull the motor and get it in the jimmy since it's so high in the air.
 
Even comes with headers. You going to swap the cam or intake or anything?
 
So this weekend the plan is to pull the motors on both trucks. Gunna hang a chainfall off a 4x4 resting on the collar ties in the carport to pull the motors over both trucks.



I'm not sure if the 2x6s will support the motor alone so I'm gonna brace/tie everything together. Grabbed a few 2x6s





The pieces cut up



So I tied the joists and collar ties together with a vertical 2x6. And ran a few pieces of bridging. Bolted it all up with some 1/2" bolts. So should be more than strong enough now to pull the motors.





The fun will begin tonight after my sons baseball game.
 
Looks like a 14015445 block which can be 2 or 4 bolt main. They were used roughly 78-90 in trucks, not a high performance application but not junk either - average 454 block.

The head casting numbers with be the ones to watch.
 
Sweet build!

I would be concerned with the pinion angle of the 14b. Back when i had a k5 with 9” of lift with the axle 1.5” back and the perches re-welded, the angle looked about like yours and it starved the pinion bearing, and fried it because it wasnt getting enough lubrication. I would keep a very close eye on that. Just speaking from personal experience and would hate to see you get everything finished and then kill the pinion bearing and have to tear the rearend apart (and keep replacing pinion bearings)
 
Looks like a 14015445 block which can be 2 or 4 bolt main. They were used roughly 78-90 in trucks, not a high performance application but not junk either - average 454 block.

The head casting numbers with be the ones to watch.
What should I be looking for in the heads? I was thinking about getting a set of aluminum heads/cam from skip white performance.
 
I’m not educated on aluminum heads. I would just try to stick with established brands, beyond that what you get / need will depend heavily on the specific cam and compression specs.

I have had good luck with Skip White stuff in the past so I’m comfortable with them as a vendor but be careful of no name aluminum head. I have read that these are typically Chinese made and can sometimes require machine work to finish them.

For factory iron heads, look for castings ending in 781 or 049. These 2 are nearly identical castings and widely recognized as the go-to factory head. Great flow both on the bottom end and up to around 6500 rpm or so. They are small valve heads though so if you are building a fire breather, you need to upgrade to bigger valves.
 
20181117_185822.jpg
That’s all for today.
How did you tie the tube support to the rear? Did you just end it at the back cab support?
 
Took a couple weeks off to get my motivation back. I put the yellow 4 door up for sale and got offered a running truck for it. So I left like this.




And returned like this.



We gave the truck to my son as a early gift for his birthday. And needless to say hes one happy boy. And now I have my motivation back to get jimmy going (and another project lol).


 
So the motor I got had a missing freeze plug.



Started pulling out the freeze plugs





Glad I pulled them all cause this nasty stuff came out.



Inside the nasty hole






Broke out the power washer and blasted away until all the water passages were clean.







Took off all the unnecessary stuff off the intake manifold to unclutter it.





New freeze plugs installed. First time I've done them so I hope I did them right seem pretty straightforward




This one on the back of the camshaft worries me some. I hope I didnt push it in to far, not sure how to tell

 
Looks like a 14015445 block which can be 2 or 4 bolt main. They were used roughly 78-90 in trucks, not a high performance application but not junk either - average 454 block.

The head casting numbers with be the ones to watch.


Check this out, found this on the back of the block after power washing.




And this on the side




Also I cant find any casting numbers on the heads but it has these engravings on them



 
Check this out, found this on the back of the block after power washing.




And this on the side




Also I cant find any casting numbers on the heads but it has these engravings on them




Production blocks and heads either say “hi perf pass” or “truck”, sadly it doesn’t mean anything. All the passenger car and light duty truck stuff (standard deck height) says hi perf pass, the commercial level engines (tall deck) say truck - these have 4 ring pistons and a taller block deck height.

The head casting numbers will be between the valve springs.
 

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